HJ Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the advice. How about using it at the > hot bed? > I can't immediately see a reason why not. Heated beds usually go up to 110 degrees C. I suppose you could use it. You'd need to generate a thermistor table for it. I'd recommend going for one of the recommended thermistors as you'll know for certain thby another_reprapper - Reprappers
HJ Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi everyone, > > I just bought a 100k thermistor from my local > store, but it's not the glass bead type, wondering > if I can use it? > > This is the datasheet I found, it's "radial lead > resin coated". The model is TTC--104. The data sheet says that Thermistor has a maximum operating temperature ofby another_reprapper - Reprappers
Mazaw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also, since I'm using Sanguinololu electronics, > there's no fan control, so my beefier fan is > always on, and it's fighting with my heated bed > and making it difficult to keep the first layer > from curling and lifting. > > On my to-do list is upgrading my electronics to > get PWM fan control, Iby another_reprapper - Printing
Cool, good work. I tried to make a pcb in fritzing but I never finished laying it out or testing it. Attached is my attempted fritzing file for anyone who might be interested.by another_reprapper - Repetier
tjhj2 Wrote: > 1st question. What would be an ideal chamber > tempature? I feel like 110 would be low, but much > higher won't everything start sagging? 30-40 degrees C is what I have seen quoted for ABS by other people. I have found that getting near to 30 degrees C in the room will noticeably reduce warping compared to printing at normal room temperature. But heating the whole roomby another_reprapper - General
The pictures show that the problem is classic ABS warping - your ABS is cooling too quickly and thus forces are pulling apart the layers as the print progresses. Make sure not to cool the print, ie. turn off any fans. Then figure out a way to keep the print warmer to prevent premature cooling causing warping. See if you can print in a warmer room. Some people use a heat lamp, or even just a 6by another_reprapper - General
I did get one thermistor from them but have had to replace thermistors a few times now in the original hot end and also in a couple of J heads I've been using. I think you should give up and just go and buy them yourself, they are only a few quid each. I bought a few for spares. RS online in the UK have 2 versions of the standard reprap thermistors, one is slightly bigger than the other but thby another_reprapper - Reprappers
Just wondering - what is the use case for the M221 gcode introduced in version 0.70 of the host software? Will it have the same effect as adjusting the E-steps during a print?by another_reprapper - Repetier
Enlightx Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > problem is now that when i have an 80mm case fan > blowing into the print after about 8mm in height > the print will warp in the corners and come away > from the bed. only comes away in the corners > though the middle stays attached. > I had the same problem as you. With PLA there is a balance to be fouby another_reprapper - General
Chris_NZL Wrote: > As I said in my previous post inspecting it in > Repetier-Host won't necessary confirm or deny the > random start points as I have already tried that. > I'm not here to convince you, I'm just stating > what I saw happen. I apologise as I used the word convince in a way that was inappropriate. What I meant to say was the following: In your previous post you meby another_reprapper - Slic3r
To see the layer start points you need to zoom right in. I think if you were to slice something simple, like a 20mm box (see screenshot above), then you'd see that that the randomize layer start points is not in fact working. It may be the object you are printing changes shape over Z layers and so perhaps the layer start points would be different anyway, so this feature would not have much effeby another_reprapper - Slic3r
Chris_NZL - you sure it works? Windows, OS X or Linux?by another_reprapper - Slic3r
I noticed it too when printing a wades large gear. I used to find that 1 perimeter was better for these but now it adds an extra perimeter. I could be imagining it (haven't done full testing to compare the versions) but it seems to me that even though the new slic3r increases perimeters to 2, the wades large gear seems to come out better than it used to and so I can concur that so far it seemsby another_reprapper - Slic3r
Ah I think I understand the problem, it works in reverse. ie. if ticked then it does not randomize and if unticked then it does randomize. I have raised an issueby another_reprapper - Slic3r
Slic3r 0.8.2 seems to be great so far for me. One slight thing - I though the new option to "randomize starting points" might help improve edges where the layers always start at the same point and cause a "notch" in a corner. However, when I tick this option in Slic3r it doesn't seem to change the point at which the perimeters start. The screenshot below shows the gcode for a 20mm box sliced wby another_reprapper - Slic3r
I am testing a J-head Mk V 0.5mm nozzle with ABS and my free air extrusion comes out at about 0.57 to 0.60 mm. Setting my nozzle size to 0.4mm in Slic3r 0.8.2 gives me better results at 0.3mm layer height than setting the nozzle size to 0.5mm where there is insufficient extrusion.by another_reprapper - Slic3r
Glad you have found your blockage. Re the grub screw slipping, I use loctite 222 to keep mine in place, perhaps you could try that. Re plastic crawling up the thread, maybe try PTFE tape on the thread. However it does sound like there is a design issue with your hotend but I don't understand the design well enough to comment on what it could be. Maybe someone else will have seen this design bby another_reprapper - Reprappers
I suspect maybe the gear is not slipping on the shaft but instead skipping on the larger gear (which might be stalling) due to a build up of pressure in the nozzle making it require a large force to push through the filament. Either way the problem is not the gear as it should extruder easier than that. If you can't extrude by pushing the filament through by hand then your nozzle is blocked orby another_reprapper - Reprappers
gregted Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Pronterface gets it up to 230 degrees fairly quick > but when I try the callibration cube, the temp > drops to 200 before it starts to print. I can get > over this by setting the temp to 260 and letting > it drop to 230 but this seems odd to me. The generated GCODE for your print will overide pronterface if tby another_reprapper - Reprappers
gregted Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also my hotbed reads 357 degrees and feels cold to > touch. > It sounds like your firmware has not got the right thermistor table. Or maybe you have PID settings incorrectly configured. Either way, incorrect temperature readings are symptoms of the fimware thermistor settings not matching the actual characterisby another_reprapper - Reprappers
AndyHow I think you should try disabling PID in your firmware as this gave me incorrect temperature readings until I had it configured correctly. PID is a PWM algorithm to finely control hot end temperature. Your hot end will work without using PID and this is called "bang bang" but maybe you can implement PID at some point in the future instead, when you decide you need fine grained hot end teby another_reprapper - Reprappers
Thank you very much for the feedback. I have tested and confirmed that the pullups for SCL & SDA are needed with my Sanguinololu 1.3 board. Here is an updated breadboard image in case anyone else finds this useful.by another_reprapper - Repetier
Hi I have created a breadboard layout for using 8 buttons and a LCD screen with Repetier firmware. I wondered if someone could validate this layout as being correct? I am planning to create a PCB if this is right so I'd better get this right up front! I am not sure if I need 8 x 1k resistors for each button - maybe they could share 1 pulldown resistor instead of 8 separate resistors? Any otheby another_reprapper - Repetier
I once had strange extruder heater temperature measurements when I had PID settings misconfigured with Marlin. Have you tried different firmware to eliminate any firmware problems as the cause?by another_reprapper - General
Thanks ever so much for the help. I couldn't get that I2C test working (for some reason even though I downloaded the library it requires it wouldn't compile). But no matter: my LCD now works! I think (and this is embarrassing) that the missing pullup resistors were the cause of my problems and as I'd switched to your new version of the firmware released today I didn't update all the configuratby another_reprapper - Repetier
Thanks for the tips guys, much appreciated. I have added 4.7k pullups to SDA and SCL and now it no longer hangs - the host software can connect fine. I am using a 10k pot to control the contrast and I can see 1 row of black blocks, but nothing else. DB0-DB3 on my LCD are not connected to ground as they do not even have pins soldered to them, as they are unrequired. I also checked the chip andby another_reprapper - Repetier
I have set up a 16x2 LCD over I2C via a PCF8574 and set UI_DISPLAY_TYPE==3. However I think something is causing it to "hang" as the display remains blank and when I try and connect via the host software it hangs during connection. I set UI_ROWS and UI_COLS. I also checked my I2C address is 0x4e by tying all the address pins on the PCF8574 to +5V. I have checked all my pins match those in the fby another_reprapper - Repetier
Will answer what I can... > [*] The unswitched +12V - is it reasonable to take > this from one of the IDE disk connectors on the > power supply? Yes. Not sure which connector, but I used 3 x yellow and 3 x black from the power supply for the bed in order to ensure the wires can handle the current. > [*] If the source and the resistors are connected > direct to the power supplyby another_reprapper - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
Thanks Sublime. I do have a fan and am trying to see whether it is best to have the fan blowing generally over the bed, or rather to have one pointed to where the nozzle meets the bed, fixed to the x carriage. So far I've had mixed results with both, including delamination due to over-cooling. Trial and error is time consuming so any tips on this are very welcome! Regarding speed, any suggestiby another_reprapper - Slic3r
Hi Am having good results with slic3r through repetier but my biggest remaining problem is overhangs: they always warp and curl up. Bed adhesion is not the problem as these are overhangs. I am using PLA @ 185oC, heated bed, and slic3r's cooling options to cool small layers. Anyone doing overhangs with PLA and slic3r - can you recommend any options to change or calibration issues to check? TIAby another_reprapper - Slic3r