End Stop - This is the first time I have seen a mechanical endstop attached to a circuit board. I believe the most common method is to direct wire to a mechanical endstop, why you may not see alternative mounting designs. What you suggest should work just fine, but worse case you could remove what you dont need from the circuit board to create room, and then just direct wire to the endstop. Exby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
If you are still getting de-lamination issues check for random air movement around the room, or even the fan on your hot-end. Even the slightest amount of air movement can suck the heat right out of your hot-bed. If you are still having issues with large ABS parts try covering your printer with a turkey/oven bag. The idea here is to help prevent outside air movement from affecting your print,by ikilledkenny - Printing
QuoteSublime Quoteikilledkenny Personally I do a combination of the 3 (calculate steps, adjust flow, & measure) Step 1 is to set the X & Y based on calculated steps/mm. Step 2 I will verify my e-steps and perform a single wall extrusion test to verify flow. Like someone mentioned each material has a different shrink rate. If you plan to print with different materials make sure to do tby ikilledkenny - Printing
Personally I do a combination of the 3 (calculate steps, adjust flow, & measure) Step 1 is to set the X & Y based on calculated steps/mm. Step 2 I will verify my e-steps and perform a single wall extrusion test to verify flow. Like someone mentioned each material has a different shrink rate. If you plan to print with different materials make sure to do this test for each one. Step 3by ikilledkenny - Printing
QuoteNormandC What about this? Granted if it's the threaded barrel and the PEEK isolator you're looking for you're out of luck, but the v1.1-1.3 wooden plates and heater block are still available as replacement parts. FYI Gadget3D sells a Buda-style hotend clone based on v1.1 and it is significantly cheaper than the Lulzbot one. You might use it for spare parts to rebuild the original (assumiby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I will start off by saying I am not looking for pity nor is this a negative post about Lulzbot. This post is here for all of the new reprapers out there who just started the hobby and have printer issues. I remember the feeling when I started a few years back seeing these awesome looking printed Yoda heads and then looking at my spider web of a calibration block asking "Am I the only person havby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
If you are thinking of going larger look at the Mendel Max 2.0. One thing that most people overlook when going larger is the diameter of the smooth rods. Longer spans means increased possibility of the smooth rods deflecting due to weight or even vibration. Personally I have an i3 and I am very happy with it. It was a nice improvement over my previous i2 printer. Keep in the back of your minby ikilledkenny - General
I posted a tutorial a while ago how to convert a picture to STL using Inkscape and Blender. Hope this can helpby ikilledkenny - General
New video out - Tutorial on how to split up the g-code into two separate print files as well as some more g-code definitions.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Edit - Here is the link to the tutorial on how to split up G-code Another option would be to take note of what layer your "paused" or stopped on. From there you can go back into the G-code and remove all previous steps before this layer. This would allow you to power down the system completely and resume at a later time. I just finished doing a video tutorial on splitting up G-codes to priby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
What are you using for a print bed? I can't stress it enough but if you are doing the box method make sure EVERYTHING is square. The first box I did was all over the place and produced nothing but issues. Some suggestions; Have your local big box cut the boards if possible. Most places will cut them to length for you if you are buying the wood. Purchase a square, and if able get some 90deg cby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I need to update some of the videos to put a big WARNING up. I started this blog back prior to the STL's being publicly available. A lot has changed since I started (first iterations where smaller, why I labeled mine XL. The recent iteration is now slightly taller then mine, oh well lol. Another change over time was the use of M10. My design does use 5/16 threaded rod (close to M8). Since Iby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Whenever you change something (hot ends, nozzles, filament) it is best practice to do a single wall extrusion test to see if the theoretical wall thickness in slic3r (.5 nozzle is usually .7mm wide) matches reality. From there you can either adjust your e-steps in the firmware or adjust the extrusion ratio in slic3r to fix this.by ikilledkenny - General
Hey hey alright great job. Cant wait for the pictures!by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Just created a tutorial on how to convert a picture into an STL. Other then the software needed to run your printer you will need Inkscape and Blenderby ikilledkenny - General
Doing something a bit different this time. This is a tutorial on how to convert an picture to an STL.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Howdy, It may come down to your build skills. Are you a person who needs the lego directions in order to creating something, or of a page/parts missing do you find yourself still able to get through the build? The electronic portion (firmware, calibration, motor control, hot end, hot bed, ect) are very similar between each other. So when it comes to that portion of the build there is enough dby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I am back after a very LONG break. In this log I go over some more advance firmware settings. I will be the first to say I am not an expert on firmware so my explanations may be off. Please feel free to correct me. Here is the link to the 200 series G-codes mentioned in the video - Stage 9 -by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I found that loc-tite 2 part epoxy works very well (find this at big box hardware stores).by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Have you tried PID tuning your hotend? Step 1, make sure PID is enabled in the firmare. Step 2, send M303 commend and that will start an automated PID tune cycle (assuming you have a somewhat recent marlin firmware). Step 3, once complete take the 3 numbers they give you and enter them into your firmware. This should help smooth out your hot end temp range. It helped me out a lot.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
The expansion pins correspond to different I/O pins (I believe they have the same pin layer as an arduino mega). Here is the board layout So under exp1 D25 = digital pin #25, under exp2 A5 = analog pin 5. This in mind if you know how to control pins on an arduino then you can do the same here. As for g-code/firmware update you may not need to do anything special, and g-code M42 should workby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
theCrazy, Another way to do this would be to tap into your Aux pins on your ramps board. Cool thing about this is you can set up G-code then to turn the fan on/off as well as control the speed of the fan. This is what I do for both my extruder motor fan, and my driver board fan. Example: under Aux-2 (note I do this using an Azteeg X3, this should work the same but before wiring stuff up tryby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I hear you with the metric to US units. My latest build was a combo of both (5/16 threaded rod, M5 Z and M8 smooth rod). You are correct, that is how I mounted my bottom box plate. The only other thing that might pop up as far as 3/4 Vs 1/2 is your top board length. The top board length is your bottom board length + two side board thicknesses. Not a huge deal, but if you kept with the suggesby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Very cool bobbitay, what was your competition? So far the reprap has helped quite a bit for the team. They are currently working on different ways to climb the tower for this year. Here is some video of them testing a climbing prototype using one of the printed teeth designs.by ikilledkenny - General
Wondering if anyone else in the community is either participating in, or helping mentor a team this year. This is my first year mentoring for the St.Peter Nordic Storm #3018, and it has been a blast. Seeing young minds tackle complex problems while being under a short deadline is awesome to see. If you are not sure what FIRST is take a look here . Here is this years competition - If there aby ikilledkenny - General
J-head in current configuration will not be able to print ploy. Main reason for most hot ends not being able to print poly is the use of PTFE and PEEK in the design. They just can not handle the higher temps needed for poly. I have used both a j-head style and a budda. Both are great hot ends, Con's of the j-head is the inability to change print nozzle sizes, and the need to cool the PEEK iby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Nigel, In the firmware did make sure to select the proper thermestor value first? If so the next step you can do is called PID tuning. This is really simple. First go into your firmware and right under the section where you select your thermister there should be a section on PID. Make sure that "#define PIDTEMP" is not commented out, upload to printer and you are set to PID tune. Next you wby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
John, Short answer is yes, you will need to increase the height of the y-end corners. Now reason for raising the bottom plate up by 3mm is to allow the box to only contact the table at the corners of the box. This is done to reduce the amount of vibration noise. When I built my i3 box I did not secure the bottom board to the rest of the box until I had already attach the board to the Y-threadby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Do you have dual extrusion ability? This might be a case where using ABS with a PLA support would work. Also can you share the STL? Maybe there is a way to carve up the print into different sections then assemble.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Happy Holiday's to everyone! Per request I have done up a calibration video. This video will go over the basic settings in the firmware, what they do, and what needs to be tested before you print your first object. Thanks everyone for the comments, and keep the suggestions/ questions coming. stage 8 -by ikilledkenny - Reprappers