u can calculate your own look up table from the beta value of the thermistor. For the J-head from makerfarm they specified B value of 4066 on their website, so there is already a look up table available. EPCOS 100K (B57540G0104F000) add that to your thermistortables.h and change configuration.h accordingly then u're good to go.by ghostling - General
hey, thx for the reply. I'm gonna try to finish the models sometime this weekend and send it to your email when it's done. hope i can get it done this weekend. since what i need includes an extruder and x-carriage, it needs to be printed in ABS, preferably in white. thxby ghostling - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
oh, ok.. well i disassembled my whole sells mendel cuz' i was dealing with x-axis backlash that i haven't been able to cure and the mendel-parts v6 hot end is leaking out the threads. so i figure i should try a different setup for the x-axis and put in a new hotend with it. let me know if anyone has time and how much to print me those few bits. thxby ghostling - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
while we're at it... i'm in need of a print of prusa lm8uu x-ends, lm8uu x-carriage, and a wade's accessible extruder that will fit a mixshop hotend.by ghostling - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
did u calibrate your E STEPS PER MM in the firmware?by ghostling - General Mendel Topics
i was printing at 180C all the way up before.. but then i found that the previous layers was too soft to form a good base for the new layer so now i print first layer at 170C and the rest at 160C and so far it has worked pretty well for me even without a fan. there's an option in slic3r 0.7.1 that allows u to set first layer temperature different than the rest. u can give that a try.by ghostling - Printing
the filament was measured with a digital caliper to be between 3.0 mm to 3.1 mm. got them recently from mixshop. before this latest failed print the previous prints were printed all the same temperature throughout the layers. so i don't think that's going to cure my problem.. i dropped the temperature cuz' the object remained soft for a while and didn't provide a good base for the next layer, soby ghostling - Printing
I'm stumped!! I've printed about 5 of the same thing sliced with different settings in slic3r but couldn't get a usable print. the first 2 layers always prints beautifully, but after the third the problems start appearing and just gets compounded as it goes. it looks like blobs starts forming at the nozzle and as it prints, the blobs get caught onto the print and start building up bigger and bigby ghostling - Printing
so today i cleaned out my hot end using the torch method, upgraded firmware from FiveD to Sprinter on the gen6 electronics. recalibrated and sliced with slic3r 0.7.1. then started printing with PLA @ 170C. the bridging problem is pretty much eliminated.. but now there's new problems. but i guess that's a topic for another thread... thx to those who helped.by ghostling - Printing
initially i started printing at 200C.. but no matter how many times i level the heated bed, and gap it with a piece of paper under the nozzle the damned extrusion just wouldn't stick onto the bed and curls around at the nozzle. so after i raised the temperature some how it started sticking and i was able to print with it.. so that's how i came to print at 266C i've ran out of ABS and switched toby ghostling - Printing
I was printing ABS @ 266C. file was sliced with skeinforge and fed to the printer with repsnapper.by ghostling - Printing
it's not going to work if u don't install skeinforge and slice your test object with skeinforge with the feedrate/flowrate settings in that video. the preinstalled firmware is calibrated to run flowrate at around 415.0..by ghostling - General Mendel Topics
i was printing several objects on the same plate, but as the print head moves from object to object it leaves a bridge between the objects every layer that i have to cut away with exacto knife aftewards. I've seen youtube videos of people printing several vertexes for a prusa on the same print without having any bridging between them... so how do they do it?by ghostling - Printing
first of all, PLA can do 180C for extrusion... try that instead and report back. second... I also bought a kit from botmill. that was about 2 months ago and i've built and got it working, they do have crappy support tho.. i sent 3 emails to which none have gotten a reply until i started complaining on here about them, then shaan finally replied my emails. initially i had the same problems as uby ghostling - General Mendel Topics
seeing everyone getting excited about the military applications of the quadcopter, i can't help but remind myself that for every high tech weapon, there's a low tech counter measure... and then a drag net comes to mind.by ghostling - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
i just had mixshop delay my order by 15 days and counting, then i remembered i saw this thread awhile ago. too bad this hasn't gotten anywhere yet... i haven't been printing for over a week cuz' i couldn't get my hands on some PLA filament.by ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
for the botmill kit i bought and built recently, the firmware was already loaded and didn't really require any tweaking. i ran into a few problems primarily with skienforge. i kept thinking i did something wrong when i was assembling the kit, but after i figured it all out, it was mostly a problem with skeinforge settings. i guess everyone will have a somewhat different experience..by ghostling - General
where do u get your solder paste? it's not that expensive to just buy them locally at RP electronics.by ghostling - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
if i didn't suddenly have to redo the plumbing and put tile around my bathtub i'd come to this meet. but i've got broken things to fix and i like to shower... so I probably won't make it this time. but i do have my printer working and printing things in ABS.. not large parts tho, because my heated bed isn't hot enough to keep the ABS from warping. ordered some PLA from mixshop, but have to waitby ghostling - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
I'm an avid AutoCAD user... the STLs it exports have been nothing but perfect for me. they are in the correct orientation and position relative to 0,0,0 of world UCS. can't say the same for a lot of the STLs downloaded from thingiverse or even the files for mendel parts from the reprap wikiby ghostling - 3D Design tools
i sprayed fluid film on mine.. worked wonders.by ghostling - General Mendel Topics
yea, i thought i remember ur user name from BCPOCby ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
unfortunately i can't make it for tonight. but good news is that i got my printer printing correctly. perhaps i'll show up with a few prints in the next meetupby ghostling - Canada, Fraser Valley B.C. RUG
so my problem is not mechanical after all... i got the sample g-code file from botmill's website and fed it to the printer with repsnapper. within seconds my mendel was laying down a big pink plastic letter B. so now i need to learn how to get skeinforge to spit out a good printable g-code file. i've played with the settings for awhile, i just couldn't get the correct combination. any tips in thby ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
i layed down a new layer of blue tape and tried it with heated bed both on and fully cooled down today. still not sticking. i measured the print bed temperature and it was only about 40 degrees when fully heated up. i'm getting really frustrated with this thing.by ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
broncosis, do u drive a ford probe?by ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
nope. the bed is not connected to the mobo and not controled by the software. the gen6 electronics i have doesn't have a connection for a heated bed.by ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
I don't have a thermometer handy so i don't know how hot the bed is. considering u can print without the bed heated i don't think that would be the problem. i leveled the bed with so i can slip a piece of paper under the nozzle with a little bit of drag... but the PLA seems to wanna stick to the nozzle more. am i supposed to wrap the nozzle with kapton tape so that the PLA doesn't cool off tooby ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
i recently got an axis 2.1 from botmill. they did ship next day and all the bits were there. but i'm 99% through my build and sent 3 emails for support... none of them got a reply. so yea, stay away from botmill if only i saw all these posts before i put in the order. it was pretty much an impulse buy, but now i guess i have to work with what i got.by ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
johnbiehler Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > e3aeb07_d.jpg wow, the print quality of these parts look awesome!!by ghostling - Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group