Show all posts by user

Re: Questions about hot end design - 11 years ago

Depending on your limiting factor - a smaller nozzle can actually print faster (linear speed) because you're melting/extruding less plastic per distance. As long as you keep the length of the tiny orifice very short (<2mm) you shouldn't have any speed issues with a 0.3mm nozzle. I was very happy with a 0.45mm nozzle because it extruded very smooth and it was very easy to go fast. For larger

by JazzyMT - Reprappers

Re: Solidworks - 11 years ago

I would not recommend using hide in this way in general practice. You can get very offensive unintended picks and details when you import models with hidden features into a drawing later and the drawing view usually automatically expands to include the hidden objects too. It is also less efficient memory-wise which probably doesn't matter here, but it can make a big difference in large assembli

by JazzyMT - General

Re: 1.8 deg/step vs 0.9 deg/step - noticable difference? - 11 years ago

I don't think there is an issue with pulse frequency. The problem is you will overflow the memory with too many steps on long moves. I am running 0.9 degree motors with 1/8th stepping on my Prusa and it works just fine. I think on the Z-axis I'm actually using 1/4 steps because the lead on the all-thread already provides quite a bit of mechanical gearing. Because of the limit on the counter m

by JazzyMT - Mechanics

Re: [Watson] Frame: CNC Aluminum Plates, 2:1 Pulleys, Sync'd Z-Axes - 11 years ago

The prototype is matched to the MK2 heat bed so it's 210 x 210 x 150mm (8.4 x 8.4 x 6.0 in). The final design parameters will depend on testing and feedback. It might not change and/or may offer it in multiple sizes, but the original plan was for a larger 300 x 300 x 200mm envelope (12 x 12 x 8 in). Do you think people would want a larger envelope?

by JazzyMT - General New Machines Topics

[Watson] Frame: CNC Aluminum Plates, 2:1 Pulleys, Sync'd Z-Axes - 11 years ago

I'm so close I can almost taste it! Ok, so there's still a lot of work to do, but I thought I would share my current progress on the Watson frame since it's starting to look like a real printer. It also provides an opportunity to talk about some of the unique design elements that sets the Watson frame apart. Plate-Mounting One of the earliest concepts that drove the design on the Watson fra

by JazzyMT - General New Machines Topics

Re: Motor Pulleys - 11 years ago

FYI - I bought some belt pulleys from Misumi and you can specify a 5mm bore (min 16 teeth on mxl). For about $6 each you get a nice aluminum pulley with the correct bore:

by JazzyMT - General

Re: TangiBot the unapologetic Makerbot Replicator clone - 11 years ago

I'm not sure there's any one thing that's really offensive - I think the collection of issues is what put people off and even then it may have only been "just enough". Personally I'd rather see new and exciting projects on Kickstarter that foster innovation. A bargain sale price for an existing product may be appealing to someone who already knows what they want and hasn't quite pulled the trig

by JazzyMT - General

Re: TangiBot the unapologetic Makerbot Replicator clone - 11 years ago

I'm interested to see how the community of consumers reacts to his business plan... Personally - I feel like what he's doing is lazy at best. He clearly has enough experience and education to offer something better, but as he stated - it's so much easier to just make a money grab first. My partner and I have been working on developing an entire new printer package + electronics for the last 6

by JazzyMT - General

Re: Hotend design & question about Wildseyed - 11 years ago

FYI - I would consider my hot end design to fit nicely between those two categories. You do need a lathe to make the nozzle, but the design is otherwise very straight forward (and effective). I've been using V0.5 for months now and don't feel it needs any significant improvement. I will probably come back to this in the next month or so to play with some other materials, but you might find the

by JazzyMT - Plastic Extruder Working Group

Re: DMLS -Direct Metal Laser Sintering- Build Steel Parts for CHEAP - 11 years ago

Guys - Nitrogen is not a suitable atmosphere for bonding steel - you will end up making useless nitride ceramic powder at best. Bonding powder in CO2 atmosphere might be possible, but will likely result in excessive brittleness. CO2 is used in MIG welding gas for mild steel because it helps stabilize the arc and broaden the heat of the arc. One other thing to know about pure CO2 is because it

by JazzyMT - Plastic Extruder Working Group

Re: Can someone explain heater cartridges to me? - 11 years ago

A heater cartridge is basically the same thing as the wire-wound resistors used in most hot ends. Both use wound nickel chrome resistance wire internally to generate heat. Some less expensive resistors (that still work fine) are made with high temperature resin whereas cartridges are typically made with ceramic guts and an Inconel or stainless steel casing to protect it. Both will work - but a

by JazzyMT - General

Re: Original open source question - 11 years ago

Sorry - you're right. I should clarify - I didn't mean to imply that "ripping off" the design was illegal. And there are legitimate reasons to encourage cloners in the true open-source ideology. It is a concern for a developer to be undersold by an overseas cloner though - enough of a concern that apparently very few are willing to risk it up front. I would also point out there are really zer

by JazzyMT - General

Re: Original open source question - 11 years ago

To the original point/thread that was deleted - I have some thoughts. I'm one of the newer lurkers here and am currently working on a 3D printer and electronics offering with the intent of (hopefully) starting a business with it too. My partner and I are still very ambivalent on the issue of open source development - having seen some of the designs ripped off in just this community, it is very

by JazzyMT - General

Re: Gen7 working with Marlin_v1 - 11 years ago

KalleP Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi JazzyMT, > > Could you see which side the timing was wrong? > Perhaps the ATmega was ok. > > Kalle > -- > Johannesburg, South Africa Wups - didn't see your reply until now. I did see which side - I connected the logic analyzer to the ATmega without a computer - I just watched the "ok" message

by JazzyMT - Next Wave Electronics Working Group

Re: Not another 3D printer company?!?! - 11 years ago

Do both shafts for the "Y-axis" rotate - ie., are they both leadscrews? If so - then both leadscrews double-duty as the bearing shafts? Just trying to understand the rendering. Thx.

by JazzyMT - General

Re: Gen7 working with Marlin_v1 - 11 years ago

KalleP Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Jazzy, droftarts, scuba, > > Not sure what > the divider sits at on the ATmega at 16 and 20 MHz > for 115200 bps but I would recommend sticking to > popular bit rates if there is no good reason to > deviate even if the dividers and bit rates don't > come out as exact integers. > > Kalle >

by JazzyMT - Next Wave Electronics Working Group

Re: Drizzle - my new favorite SF setting - 11 years ago

Oh and yes - Dwindle doesn't have any affect on corner blobbing in general because they're not the *end* of a print line, just a change in direction. I agree that retraction should cure most of the Z-step blob (which I have on), but it's like it doesn't retract soon enough and it hesitates at the end for a moment which is enough time to make an extra fat blob. I never get strings, but I do get

by JazzyMT - Skeinforge

Re: Drizzle - my new favorite SF setting - 11 years ago

Wow - I'm not getting *that* old yet am I? Uh...yea - Dwindle, not Drizzle. /facepalm I changed the following two settings: End Rate Multiplier : 0.25 Pent Up Volume : 0.5 I think it's still not quite there - I might try these next: End Rate Multiplier : 0.2 Pent Up Volume : 0.75 I also tried enabling "extruder advance" in Marlin, which is also meant to address the problem of corner blobbing

by JazzyMT - Skeinforge

Re: Printing quality suggestions? - 11 years ago

I will look for that - thanks. I did some other testing and think I have some firmware soft limits on accel too, so I'll have to reflash anyway to fix that before I can do more test prints.

by JazzyMT - Printing

Printing quality suggestions? - 11 years ago

Hello all, I'm finally getting some of my print settings dialed in and am trying to do some higher end fine tuning now. I've been playing more with accel lately in Marlin and have gone from around 650mm/s2 with 35mm/s xy-jerk to 10,000mm/s2 with 15mm/s xy-jerk. This has resulted in eliminating any lost steps even at 75mm/s print speed and still decent looking corners. Moving too slowly throug

by JazzyMT - Printing

Drizzle - my new favorite SF setting - 11 years ago

Hey all, As I'm sure many of you have experienced - there are quite a few tabs on SF that go unused. I've been trying several different things to reduce the blobbing at the end of the perimeters where the head pauses for a moment before proceeding to fill. Clip is supposed to end the perimeter loop early. I haven't noticed though that it does anything useful. Oozebane is supposed to slow d

by JazzyMT - Skeinforge

Re: Interesting belt drive concept - 11 years ago

Also requires a belt rack for the belt to engage in, but it is pretty cool. I'm not sure exactly what the advantage to this is over just a regular rack & pinion though...not much, except you can tension the belt to reduce backlash.

by JazzyMT - Mechanics

Re: Thermistors and resistors - 11 years ago

NelsonRap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use high heat resistant silicone sealer as it's > so much easier to use and stays flexible when set > and I insulate the wires with high heat proof heat > shrink +1 exactly what I did, except I just used "normal" heat shrink afaik - seems to work fine.

by JazzyMT - General

Re: Considering a new extruder design - 11 years ago

Try not to kill yourself mung. I don't see any spray-on teflon coatings in that pile of chemicals, mostly acid, but spray-on teflon is actually a great idea in my opinion. Or even better yet - a plasma applied thin film vacuum coating. Of course - to do that you need a vacuum chamber...and a plasma source...and a plasma power supply (either mid-frequency 40-100kHz AC or high-frequency GHz RF).

by JazzyMT - Plastic Extruder Working Group

Re: How to prevent bridging on separate objects - 11 years ago

That's true, but my original question stands regardless of "actual" temp - has he tried lower temperatures during printing? Is he using such a high temperature (or whatever it truely is) because it's the bare minimum it would print or is he using it just to print faster? To me - the description of the print sounds like it's running too hot and/or retraction isn't on at all. Additional settings

by JazzyMT - Printing

Re: Infill Issues and Perimeter Blobbing - 11 years ago

Have you tried using a higher infill %? It looks like yours is set very low - like 10%? Mine seems to misbehave if its set anything less than 20% and usually I use 25%. I think that's what you're seeing - material just blobs and then wipes on the cross-lines rather than making continuous lines because there's not coherent enough support under it. Lower temps might also help keep it continuous

by JazzyMT - Printing

Re: How to prevent bridging on separate objects - 11 years ago

266C!? That may be part of your problem right there - why are you using such a high temperature? I'm printing ABS @ 205C 50mm/s 0.3mm layer height. Albeit that's lower than most (lovin my hot end design), but 266 is crazy high and will result in additional drooling/oozing. Have you tried lower temperatures? Retraction in Skeinforge is controlled under the "Dimension" tab. The two settings y

by JazzyMT - Printing

Re: Encouraging development 2 - Incentives - 11 years ago

sminnee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > One way to deal with the chicken and egg problem > of getting a standard established is not to call > it "the standard", but merely "a standard". For > example, bryanandaimee might come up with a set > standards that define "B&A Compatible" > customisations. The challenge is then to get that > stan

by JazzyMT - Developers

Re: Encouraging development 2 - Incentives - 11 years ago

Buback Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > First of all, This is silly "This entire page is a > horrible, terrible idea, and you should be shot > for creating it." I saw that too - It's beyond silly - it's infantile and unwelcome. I just deleted it. I had issues with calling it a Standard, but harassment or name calling is a truly stupid way to participat

by JazzyMT - Developers

Re: Power Supply Survey - 11 years ago

1. Dedicated 12V PSU -- two PC-PSUs, one for the motors/electronics, one hacked old Dell hotwired for both heaters. 2. I think the main PC-PSU is 350W - I don't know about the Dell, probably ~300W. 3. Specified 12V current capacity - unknown 4. Heated Bed: 7.5-8.0A (1.5 ohm total R - on pretty much on continuously since it doesn't reach temp) Hot End: 3.5A max (probably ~1.5A average cur

by JazzyMT - Controllers