Quotecvaldess SPI/I2C to GPIO/ADC/PWM chips are really cheap, don't know why not use edison... arduino due and mega cost the same as intel soc and provide a lot of less computing and communication power than the edison. Beaglebone has more I/O available than Edison or any of the Arduinos, and two PRU coprocessors with DMA to the ARM's memory and GPIO access. It's ideal for 3D printing, and therby pokey9000 - General
This is one advantage of Bowdens: the tube can be used to enforce the minimum bend radius, and the extruder can be used as a wiring hub between electronics and the E-stepper and effector. Nylon braided tube and PP spiral wrap work well, though Velcro cable ties spaced evenly made for easy wiring changes on my Tantillus and kept the entire Bowden length visible.by pokey9000 - Safety & Best Practices
Looking great! Way better than my PLA print from back in the day.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
If friction were a problem, I'd expect inconsistencies between layers. The prints look fine aside from the dimensions. I still think it's something to do with belts or pulleys. You mentioned that you checked the pulleys. Do you have flats for the set screws on the motor shafts? Are you sure they're tight? Printed pulleys (esp. PLA) can warp around the set screw with time and motor heat, andby pokey9000 - Printing
What belts and pulleys are you using (teeth/pulley and belt teeth/mm specifically)? From experience and what I've seen, manufactured pulleys used with quality belts should work with the calculated steps/mm. I'm not sure about printed though, and all bets are off if your belt has stretched for some reason. I was hoping that the _AXIS_STEPS_PER_MM was doing an inline divide that would accidentalby pokey9000 - Printing
Can you post your Configuration.h lines with the steps/mm settings?by pokey9000 - Printing
Read this post about J-Head clones. A few things are probably going on here: -A badly designed or manufactured nozzle is more likely to build up back pressure, especially with PLA. It's also possible that manufacturing debris or PEEK from your attempts to recover from the meltdown could be causing the clog too. -The heat break with 4 vent holes is less effective at keeping the incoming PLA coby pokey9000 - Printing
Quotejaydmdigital Why not connect it to 12V all the time? This is how I do it. This. There's no advantage to software controlling the airflow over the heatsink, but a possibility of disaster if the fan isn't pushing enough air. If you're afraid of cooling the nozzle too much, wrap a few turns of Kapton around the heater block, use fan ducting to keep airflow off the nozzle and block, or see ifby pokey9000 - Delta Machines
When you say "cheap-o" do you mean the digital Hall sensor, or crappy mechanical endstops?by pokey9000 - General
CidVilas: Tantillus, Ingentis, and the other Tantillus derivatives either use a single leadscrew or a cable drive on Z. The original Tantillus used a single threaded rod and captive nut, but I don't see why a leadscrew couldn't be substituted. There are so many T-slot designs with the bed on an independent Z that it should be possible to mix and match your desired gantry with the Z motion setupby pokey9000 - General
Quotegreenman100 Popcorn status: Ready. Delusions of grandeur: Active.by pokey9000 - General
What's up with the FETs on this board? One is missing and the other looks like it died violently.by pokey9000 - For Sale
I have a roll of 3mm Ultimachine natural PLA that's about 2 years old that I still occasionally use. It's survived a couple of humid summers in a closet with no breaks.by pokey9000 - General
Quotevreihen Given the near-negligible cost, I want to know what are everyone's thoughts about replacing the set screw in an E3D or other hotend design with a side-drilled M3 (or even M2) hole that uses one of these standoffs as both the set screw for the heater cartridge *and* the thermistor housing? By having direct contact with the heater cartridge the sensor delay from additional heated massby pokey9000 - General
I have all of these problems. Now that I've built up a tackle box full of spare bearings, metric hardware, and various electronics bits it's not as bad, but I still do a lot of small purchases during assembly because I forgot something. One thing that gets me fairly often is the MacGyver approach to speccing certain components. Sometimes a part was used because the designer had one on hand, orby pokey9000 - General
QuoteHazer QuoteNewPerfection QuoteHazerMcMaster Carr sells M8 dowel pins. Depending on type, you can get internally threaded for $1.50, or standard ones for $10 for a pack of 5. Or you can print an 8mm dowel pin for almost free Not for an extruder idler bearing. Take a look at the Airtripper sometime.by pokey9000 - Delta Machines
I have the same problem with my i2. If I touch just the wrong part of the frame on a cold day, it resets my Sanguinololu. I still haven't done anything to fix it. In electronic design, ESD effects are reduced through careful grounding of the chassis and ports, and putting suppression circuits on signals going in and out of a chassis. The goal is to get the shock to dissipate safely away fromby pokey9000 - Controllers
If you shorted only those pins, then the Stepstick shouldn't be affected since it was across the power and ground rails. More than likely you overheated the ground contact on the Pololu connector. Remove the Y stepstick, examine the pins and socket for melting or other damage, and see if one of the working Stepsticks behaves the same way when used in the Y Pololu socket. At best, reseating theby pokey9000 - Sanguino(lolu)
Sodium silicate muffler putty or cement are easy to find and popular for cementing heaters and thermistors in hotends. It should work fine for a thermocouple, and is brittle enough to chisel out with a small pick. Make sure that the junction is insulated first. Chasing down inadvertent current paths in a thermocouple system is not fun.by pokey9000 - General
Why not back parts supported by libopencm3? It makes for a decent HAL for Cortex M3/M4/M0 parts from ST, TI, NXP, and Atmel. It's rough around the edges, especially in support for non-STM32 parts, but unlike Arduino or mbed it's easy to contribute patches.by pokey9000 - Controllers
That's pretty much the experience I've had with Geeetech and SainSmart stuff... If it's plain old rosin then isopropyl will take care of it. Douse it and scrub with a toothbrush, repeat until most of the flux is off, then let it dry. Acetone works too, but parts like those switches and some connectors may have some ABS and might get dissolved. If it works i might have to pick one up though.by pokey9000 - General
Quotedissidence Im not thinking to use it for that. But I think if it could work. A person could put it into the SD slot then use it fore a network host for the ramps. Maybe it could even slice models too. Sorry, I was thinking about Galileo. If Edison has enough RAM and storage then I agree. I still haven't found a use case for the Galileo that a BeagleBone can't fill better at half the priby pokey9000 - Controllers
All of the GPIOs are through an I2C port expander, so it will be too slow to drive steppers. Better to wait for the Tre or buy an UDOO if you want that sort of setup.by pokey9000 - Controllers
If the Peltier isn't that big (<3A or so) you might want to use a motor driver IC like the L293 that has an H-bridge with logic level inputs.by pokey9000 - General
We're always glad for people to show off what they've done, especially novel ways 3D printing is used in other disciplines. Most people here are interested in improving 3D printing processes and making it available to more people. If you want to help the community combine electronics and 3D printing, how about finding easier ways to encapsulate electronics in printed objects? Currently it's aby pokey9000 - General
I'm using 0.9A motors with 0.149Nm holding torque for motion and the extruder and haven't had any problems with skipped steps. The towers don't require much torque, and with 1.75mm filament and reduction gearing the extruder doesn't either.by pokey9000 - Delta Machines
SainSmart clones open source hobbyist electronics and doesn't add anything new to the community aside from lowering the total cost of a printer. I don't think their full kit will be more "compatible" than buying from recommended vendors here. I'm also dubious of their A4988 driver boards as the photos appear to show a 0 ohm shunt instead of the precision sense resistor they should have instead.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
dshel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just stumbled on to this If I dont hear from > anyone in the near future > I will try the houston crowd thanks Hi? Still no RepRap specific meetups in ATX. I'm sufficiently disconnected from the maker community by way of living far south, though I know forum member cfellows is doing some of his builds at the TechSby pokey9000 - Texas, Austin RepRap User Group
Somehow I got on their mailing list and received this this morning. By far the weirdest email subject line I've seen in a while. Also Betteridge is still undefeated.by pokey9000 - General
The Sanguinololu hotend and HBP connectors have 2 pins for each end of the heated bed, split down the middle. You should use all four pins and double up the wires going from the connector to the HBP to ease the load on each of the pins. Though after doing this it'll likely exceed the rating for the connector pins.by pokey9000 - Reprappers