It takes a four person team with degrees in Aerospace, Electrical, Mechanical, and Software engineering to copy the Rostock, designed by one guy, and make it with extrusions. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/deltamaker/deltamaker-an-elegant-3d-printer-0?ref=live Worse yet, they don't even credit Johann Rocholl for the design.. only his Marlin fork that supports it. Who needs a degree in softby lincomatic - General
Try greasing your z-rods. If that doesn't work, loosen up the motor screws a bit.by lincomatic - General
epareja Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello, the basic free version doesn't allow to cut > the file. Thanks anyway. Actually, I use the free version to cut STLs all the timeby lincomatic - General
Skip the tape for ABS. Just clean it with 100% isopropyl and set your z calibration to squash down the first layer. Set the heatbed to 100C. When the print is done, it will pop off the bed by itself when the glass contracts due to cooling. If I'm in a rush, I just blow a fan on it until I hear the sound of it popping off. (props to jcabrer for teaching me this technique). No need to clean aby lincomatic - General
Entropy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not sure if the problem is air or moisture. If I > had a good way to photograph it I would. But tiny > little bubbles every where. I'm batting a > thousand here. > > I've actually heard good things about them as > well. The dark blue glow in the dark is what I > bought. Try drying it in your oby lincomatic - General
ttsalo Wrote: > I don't like the overblown claims about > self-replication on the reprap.org's main page, > but in any case the consensus definition seems to > be that currently a RepRap is a printer which can > be built from a combination of parts it can > produce itself and standard off-the-shelf parts. > (And I guess the extruders and electronics can be > considered offby lincomatic - General
ttsalo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > akhlut Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > steve893 Wrote: > > > -------------------------------------------------- > > > ----- > > > RepRap means replicating rapid prototyper. > > > Lasercut acrylic side panels and LEDs are not > >by lincomatic - General
I've disassembled a bunch of steppers that weren't turning smoothly and reassembled them and they work great now. I was surprised that some of them used standard 625ZZ bearings. A little bit of oil on them and they're good as new. It's nice to know that when the bearings need to be replaced, they are cheap and easy to find. Also, 625ZZ bearings can take moderate axial loads, so there's no need tby lincomatic - Mechanics
Thanks for the responses. I tried entering my actual nozzle diameter into Slic3r (.35), per MKouri's advice above, and had problems with my layers not sticking properly. I switched to entering the diameter of the extruded filament (.65), and I'm getting perfect prints now, so YMMV.by lincomatic - General
nophead Wrote: > > I measure the extruded filament diameter and that > tells me what range of filament widths and layer > heights I can use. I then input those to > Skeinforge. So.. say, I have a .4mm nozzle. When I test extrude, after cooling, the diameter of the plastic is generally .6mm. Slic3r has nozzle diameter as an input. Do I input .6 or .4mm? How do I figure out the mby lincomatic - General
Interesting design. How did you machine the brass rod?by lincomatic - General
I can't find your hot end on your blog. Can you post a direct link?by lincomatic - General
I also have O1 rods from McMaster. They are quite rough, and I think you will have the same problem with other bearings. I also have a pair of hardened and polished rods and my bearings roll quite smoothly on them, compared to on the O1 rods. I used steel wool starting with coarse and working down to 0000, and the O1 rods are much smoother nowby lincomatic - General
Hmm. Just downloaded the latest version of avrdude, and it indeed now supports a programmer type called arduino. I guess it's something used with Arduino 1.0?by lincomatic - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks, Victor!by lincomatic - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Try putting a voltmeter across the heater leads after turning it on via Pronterface, and see if it reads 12V. If not, it's a firmware problem.by lincomatic - General