Hi nophead, i know better than to try and convince you that it needs commas. you are someone i respect as a guru when it comes to 3D printing i did a search on Google for a method of converting solid works stl to work on reprap (3D printers) and unfortunately i was suckered in to a false truth. I have had a little success this afternoon on getting my part to print, its now starting to print in tby JT - General Mendel Topics
I have been having problems printing my own models for week now, i have convinced myself that the printer is running as it should and have tried without success to produce my own parts. The problem im having is that my own models/parts are printed all over the place. i did have a problem with slippage on the x axis but have succeeded in eradicating it I discovered that the solidworks script hasby JT - Printing
ok quick update, it is the stl files or at least was. I discovered that the solidworks script has spaces and slicer likes commas between coordinates so i manually fixed the file. and guess what - it still prints garbage. I am desperate for someones help to move on from this issue i cant print my own models only the Reprap calibration stl files, my files just print all over the place. i have rulby JT - General Mendel Topics
just avoid the pain and go straight for crimps, car/automotive crimps are easy to get hold of (the red ones) cut the plastic off the crimp, make up the connections then insulate joint with crapped-on tape (capton) i used the fabric type of high temperature insulated braid sleeving on mine, the sort of stuff used in floodlights to protect the internal wiring from the heat off the halogen tube, cby JT - General
im using a 220v version on my heated bed 8x100mm cartridge. i got some 20x20mm aluminium square bar and drilled an 8mm hole off centre to one side. drilled and tapped 2x 4mm holes into the block which i attached to my aluminium bed with 2x countersunk screws. it works like a dream. Im using painters Blue tape on the surface of the bed. just need to stop my x axis going off on a tangent now andby JT - General
I love the fact you have run a sort of poll here and judging by replies so does everyone else. there are only a few kill joys telling you off. Its great that so much info has come out of a simple question - so loads of us out there are curious. keep up the thread - just refuse to move. J head extruder 0.4mm & Im using 3mm ABS on 1kg reels at £22 a chuck and if my printer doesnt sort out itsby JT - General
Try looking at these devices USB LAN Adapters Ive used one before on another project and it worked fine. there is host software which handles the gateway for you so the device just appears as another usb deviceby JT - General
Hi Myles, are you still offering your printing services. i would like 6 of the above part made. im trying to get my own printer working but it keeps missing steps in the X axis so i would be really interested to hear if you can get me out of a hole. jtmarineservices@gmail.coby JT - Job Shop: I make stuff!
ok, try selecting 9600 baud and connect if you dont get somthing resembling english try the next baud rate in the drop down, its quicker to try them all than look at the sprinter code in the arduino ide (config tab)? give it a go you cant screw anything up - one of the will work. the characters instead of text is because the baud is still not correct Im using sprinter so its strange your settinby JT - General Mendel Topics
Hi all, im not convinced the problem is mechanical. i am pretty sure its the STL files. if i load certain examples from the web they print (not all) if i create my own design in Autocad 2006 and use sketchup to convert it to 3ds then use netfabb (basic pc version) to create fixed STL i still get miss prints - infact the design aboce takes forever to slice in slic3r. Is there a basic tried and tby JT - General Mendel Topics
I have added the file i have been working with. The layers looked ok in the viewer but when i when to print the part the two end shoulders were printed next to each other. i downloaded a G code viewer last night and it showed the part as it should be. i have turned the pololu for the X axis up from 0.33 to 0.9 and so far no change. The problem seems to go across the bed and not from rear to froby JT - General Mendel Topics
My printer is an own built machine I have a sanguino running sprinter firmware and im using Pronterface as a front end. I can print perfect hollow shapes (calibration STL files) both cylinders and squares. when i run the 20mm solid box if prints the first 5 Z layres perfectly but when it fills the 5th layre it jumps about 10mm to the right and starts to print the shape from there, then anotherby JT - General Mendel Topics