Show all posts by user

Re: Two Motor - Multi-Colour Printing - Need your help. - 6 years ago

i basically do this on my rotary extruder 1 motor drives the other selects which hotend. i used the firmware using NPR2 i did have to add some code to firmware. but now any slicer will work just using the t command. actually looking at the NPR2 it does what you want to do . [3dprint.com]

by jm44807 - Developers

Re: my rotary extruder 1 drive upto 4 hotends - 6 years ago

it rotates both ways or the wires would get twisted

by jm44807 - General

Re: my rotary extruder 1 drive upto 4 hotends - 6 years ago

alot of trial and error lots of error lol. yea i was hoping someone could refine it some. here is a better quality vid and i fixed a scraper that had come loose and refined retraction a bit now much less oozing.

by jm44807 - General

Re: my rotary extruder 1 drive upto 4 hotends - 6 years ago

i use a servo to first pivot the whole drive motor up. its not directly connected to motor just pushes it up. when servo lowers it there is a spring that pulls it down so its floating. because of direction it turns the gear engaged pulls down on motor so the gear doesnt slip at all. this was a accident but works well. if hotend jams the motor will miss steps or strips filament. the stepper turn

by jm44807 - General

my rotary extruder 1 drive upto 4 hotends - 6 years ago

this is my rotary extruder been using it 1.5 years. so i thought i share it. i can put 4 hotends on but only have 3 now. its using standard ramps 1.4 with custom marlin. ext 1 drives filament ext 2 rotates extruders. i did have to add thermistor and heater to ramps. a servo lifts drive to rotate. the table bearing is 618 nylon rings the rest is pla and petg. prints multi material without need f

by jm44807 - General

makergeek co-polyester filament keeps jamming - 8 years ago

im having trouble printing makergeek en7000. it strips the filament if i remove it put it back in it prints again. i tried in 3 different hotends a e3d clone all metal, and one with ptfe liner and a stainless steel DURAPLAT3-D coated. the ptfe lined one will print for 20 to 30 min the others just a few. things i tried temp 240-270 speed 15 to 40mms tightening pinch roller turned off retract i

by jm44807 - General

Re: Z banding (Possibly extruder problem) - 8 years ago

could it be a temperature problem. some filament changes color at different temps

by jm44807 - Printing

Re: Printing different Materials / Multi-Material printing - 8 years ago

i had the drip issue with dual nozzles made it hard to use. so i made a rotating nozzle platform unused nozzles are capped i works reasonably well. not perfect yet still get some excess blobs but much better then simple dual nozzles. but it is big and heavy but i have a big printer.

by jm44807 - General

Re: Z Height Setting - 8 years ago

i use the shim to get me close i would rather be to high than to low put that in firmware. then i print a test piece(actually i usually measure skirt i print around test piece) then and take it of and measure it make the adjustment in slic3r try again until it comes out to whatever my set layer height is. after that i put slic3r back to 0 and adjust firmware again. you can do the same to level th

by jm44807 - General

Re: top layer, shell not smooth. Please help - 10 years ago

you could try a bit lower temp or a fan on part to stop melting thru model. but if you are talking about the rings on top where the model has a slight angle then lower layer height will help but not eliminate all of it. primer and sanding will work or use abs and vapor smooth it. i dont know for sure but you limonene may work for pla.

by jm44807 - Printing

Re: Dupont Female Connectors Sticking out - 10 years ago

from the ebay link you gave in description it says "Works for our female HD15 connectors" witch are d-sub connectors. vriehen shows the correct pins.

by jm44807 - General

Re: ABS print bends and creates cracks (not at bed level) - 10 years ago

i dont have an enclosure either and can print abs at least smaller objects(6 inches or less). i had some abs that needed alot of heat i went as high as 250c and it fixed the problem. it depends on color of filament and what brand i use. also make sure you dont use a fan to cool print

by jm44807 - Printing

Re: Iron3D 12x12x14 / solidoodle 3 or 4 / or something else? - 10 years ago

with a big build area like that i would get a larger nozzle also. i use .4mm for smaller detail things but use a .8mm and 1mm for larger things. i have not used abs alot but i think it would be a challenge for bigger prints.

by jm44807 - General

Re: Makerbot patents open-source content - 10 years ago

they even patented the hole lol what next the wheel "3. The method of claim 1 wherein the assembly features include holes."

by jm44807 - General

Re: POLL: Which nozzle size? - 10 years ago

0.4 and/or .08 1.75 filament. depends on how big object is and how much detail needed. also use 1mm sometimes and would like to 0.25 for some tiny prints.

by jm44807 - General

Re: Need help slicing - 10 years ago

freecad is very good i have used a couple years now. lately i have been using designspark mechanical it was a little easier to learn. generally i can make a part faster in designspark it is more click and move with mouse. the downside it does not export to cad formats like step or iges but will export tosketchup. it will import step but unable to edit it.

by jm44807 - General

Re: Thin layers on top and bottom - 10 years ago

did you try slowing down? mine look like that when i push the speed.

by jm44807 - Printing

Re: Extruder connection - 10 years ago

this thread may help it looks like it is a k-type thermocoupler that you have. if you dont know where the fan hooks to on ramps look here

by jm44807 - General

Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago

i took a 1mm drill bit measured with caliper and set it to zero at length of bit. then put drill bit inside nozzle and measure end of bit to nozzle tip. no math just read caliper. i also used a toothpick it was close to the same. for what is worth i solved my pla problem with vegetable oil and sponge on filament. did a 1 drop or 2 a week or so. it stopped my jams i have not used any oil for ab

by jm44807 - General

Re: Hotend temp. adjusts fan speed? - 10 years ago

here is an article on setting current for ramps if that is what you use

by jm44807 - Reprappers

Re: Hotend temp. adjusts fan speed? - 10 years ago

dose the motor stop or slip on filament? if it stops lower the current.

by jm44807 - Reprappers

Re: Hotend temp. adjusts fan speed? - 10 years ago

yes insulate the heater block where the thermistor is from the fans. here is a pic of mine. one heater block is simply covered with kapton tape the other i used fiber gasket material to cover it. then the fan blowing on the bed has much less effect on heater block. i also have a fan shroud to direct air over top half of hotend

by jm44807 - Reprappers

Re: Hotend temp. adjusts fan speed? - 10 years ago

did you run the pid command? mabey you just need to insulate your hotend from the fan air.

by jm44807 - Reprappers

Re: over/under extrusion at the same time? - 10 years ago

here is how i calibrate it after i get it close by using the measure filament. i do this on each new filament roll. i use slic3r most of the time. also heve you tried lowering temp a little. do you use a fan for the object your printing.

by jm44807 - Printing

Re: How do SLA prints compare with extruded prints in terms of strength? - 10 years ago

have you tried using acetone on abs after you done printing it? search for acetone vapor treatment. it will make layers stronger. i dont know if it would work but what about leaving a hole in each piece for a small piece of metal like a set screw like this from mcmaster-carr part #92313a254. or flat spring steel. you could possibly print part of it pause print and insert metal piece the resume

by jm44807 - Polymer Working Group

Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago

3dognate i dont have an e3d but it is very similar i was having same issues as you it would print a few small object then jam. if i retracted it out and cutoff put back in it was good for a few more. what worked for me was putting the filament thru a sponge and adding a couple of drops of oil on filament just above the sponge. it made a big difference i have since accidentally left extruder on f

by jm44807 - General

Re: Temperature 0.00: Arduino? - 10 years ago

i have the same problem using pronterface. if i use m105 command it updates pronterface. it actually heats up and starts printig fine it just is not updated in pronterface. i have win 7 pro mabey an win update messed something up

by jm44807 - General

Re: larger diameter nozzle - 10 years ago

thanks for the offer but if i get bits i can have a friend do it. just not sure how long to make hole or if it makes a much of a difference

by jm44807 - General

larger diameter nozzle - 10 years ago

looking for a 0.7mm to 1mm nozzle closest i have found is 0.6mm. i use the type with 6mm male thread. also im in ohio so i dont want to pay shipping from outside us could i just drill out a smaller nozzle? i have read you want a longer hole the bigger hole diameter i think i read 1.5 times the hole diameter. i did drill one out of a 0.5mm nozzle it seemed to work ok . if i have to make my own

by jm44807 - General

Re: How to get non-porous print and minimize drooping perimeters - 10 years ago

could your filament be slipping on gear/hobbed bolt. on mine if i print to fast it looks just like that on solid infill. helps some if i turn the heat up. even if you calibrate the extruder when you print there will be more back pressure. try tightening your spring tension

by jm44807 - General