Hi, Thank you for your help this is just weird and I cannot figure out what is going on. After a little bit of printing between 30-60min the extruder just stops moving, it is still powered up and holding steps. If I push on the filament hard enough I can feel it skip a step, but it is not even trying to extrude. The temps are showing normal at 190 deg, and it is still moving like it is printiby tjhj2 - General
Hey that is good news. I thought I had something flipped. Well it's all figured out. I can't figure out how it was running, homing back right and flipped X. Shouldn't it try and move off the right at the start (crashing off the start?), when it goes for the first positive move? If the X was flipped?by tjhj2 - Tantillus
For future referance, I finally figured it out. It was a loose connection on the extruder resister block.by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think it may be your hobbed bolt slipping or > possibly the small gear on the extruder motor may > be slipping. > > Did you print the case on Tantillus or your > Makergear? > > Do we get to see it? I am trying to put together a whole time lapse video of tantillus making itself, so I was waitingby tjhj2 - Tantillus
QuoteSublime Glad to here you built a second one. Well I had the hobbed bolt.... Since I bought an extra during the kickstarter campaign. Nothing like a $5 part as an excuse to make a $500 machine. I figured why not make a printed one as a Xmas gift. QuoteSublime My first thoughts are did you calibrate the E steps the same way as with your first one? If the flow is too low you do not get muchby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hello All, So I am working on my second Tantillus and it is giving me a fit. Nothing I seem to do makes it print correctly. I have tried increasing temperature all the way up to 220 where I got clogs from it being too hot, lowered it to the point it wouldn't print. This same spool prints fine in my other Tantillus. The layer alignment is good, but it just doesn't stick together. When it goesby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Backing off the travel speed seemed to help. Its still not where it was, I guess its time to break it all apart and see what happened mechanically. Thanksby tjhj2 - General
Thank you for the suggestions so far, but it is still being weird. And this is starting to get even weirder. @akhlut Thank you for the questions, here are your answers below. > Z-wobble. Have you played with the z-axis at all. Prior to this problem, no. > Loosened/tightened the z-springs? No I have not changed the z-springs >Are the motors screwed down? Yes I double checked tby tjhj2 - General
I think it has potential, but I am not to sure to the limits of fluids (Viscosity) that an inkjet printer cartridge can spit out. I would suspect you would need to use a piezo electric ink cartridge as the heating from a bubble jet would affect the resin by heating it and changing the temperature. My only thought is the one of cost and supply. The biggest challenge when it comes to UV printiby tjhj2 - General
Hello All, I have been printing fine for a while now and then suddenly this happened and I cannot seem to figure out what is causing it or how to fix it. There are these weird lines of almost over extrusion that occur evenly up the model. The vertical spacing changes depending on the model, but does not seem to change based on infill. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mby tjhj2 - General
Looks great, I will be trying it soon. Does KissSlicer have "correct" math unlike slicer, so that the estep adjustment we were using to make slicer correct, is no longer needed and we can go to a true estep to length measurement?by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Ill see what I can come up with for some ducts. QuoteSublime Have you seen if it will reach 110c for ABS? Yes, it takes 4 min 30 seconds to reach 110c. This is a surface calibrated temperature. It would seem that it could maintain 110c with no time limit, it is running about 70% on time which should give ramps and the wires time to cool down. I ran it all the way up to 125c just to test and heby tjhj2 - Tantillus
The large panels are approx 210x300mm after being cut.by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hello All. So I made a Heated Bed for the Tantillus, but then I encounter an interesting problem. With other heated print bed designs, there is room/mounting solution for fans to allow the part to be cooled on the surface to prevent curling of the PLA. As far as I can tell, it seems that there isn't enough airflow over the part top to stop the curling from the heat. I am thinking of maybe a hosby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Edited the post to include a warning about that it is bad advice, and not to follow it. I didn't delete it so the thread still makes sense. If I understand the math error of slicer is related to the J head having much different die swell properties than other nozzles. This is why you have to use .30 for a .35 nozzle and override the default extrusion width calculation. Is the math error stillby tjhj2 - Tantillus
WARNING BAD ADVICE DO NOT FOLLOW THIS, SEE SUBLIME POST BELOW You might try a more traditional calibration approach. I kept having odd results using the print the cube method. Take the Bowden clamp off. Extrude a little bit of filament so it's sticking out the end. Measure how far past the tube end = L1 Tell pointer face to extrude 30mm slowly. Around 50-100mm min to elimate any step skipping.by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hobocop, Did you trim the inside of the extruder where the inner bearing race sleve top and bottom sits? If it gets harder to turn as you start to tighten it, the inner bearing race is rubbing. On mine it would click and chatter like crazy if I set it where the bolt would turn freely. Once I trimmed it so the inner bearing sleeve wasn't rubbing I was able to tighten it a lot more and all the clby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Be careful buying the encoder from eBay. I bought two sets that wouldn't work. They were not the persistent state change type but only changed momentarily when clicked then returned to 00. The spark fun ones work but have to glued in the laser cut case. The Threaded version is too big and not long enough so it has to be drilled and still glued. On the upside you could wire some led colors in thby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Pokey9000, Thanks for the info Ive got some of the 15CFM's on the way, I hope it works as well as yours.by tjhj2 - Tantillus
If your going with a total redesign (Plus) my suggestion would be, to swap which bars are on the top (X vs Y) vs the bottom. If the lower rod which travels the X axis were on top it would make adjustment of the rear rod much much easier. And the Y cables would be adjustable from the windows easily. Trying to adjust the tension on the rear cable is really tough, fighting the Z platform, Y motorby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Thanks Pokey9000 let me know how it goes. I ordered 4 50mm 12.5 cfm fans. I couldn't find any 15cfms so well see where this leads.by tjhj2 - Tantillus
So after some testing I am not sure what I have learned, but I will share and see what everyone thinks. Setup I took a large 5inch case cooling fan that puts out around 75 CFM and zip tied it to the front window. Which in my mind should be more than adequate. I taped the lower duct off on the 40mm fan duct because it lines up under the build table due to my MK-Vb nozzle height. Now all my airfby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hi All, Thank you for your help. 1st question. What would be an ideal chamber tempature? I feel like 110 would be low, but much higher won't everything start sagging? 2nd longer question. I am still a little lost. Two people have now said recalibrate for ABS. I have gone through what I think are calibration settings with why or why not something changes. If you could please correct my logicby tjhj2 - General
Hey All So I have been running some tests but while they are going on, here are some pictures of the problem. I might have something else going on.... This is the extruder small gear, so we should all have a pretty good reference of how it prints and that it is not that hard of an overhang. @Sublime Here is what I am at spec and setting wise. I am running two 40mm fans, 4.11 CFM with the dby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hi, I figure some pictures might help with show what is happening. @Orcinus No I have my fans turned totally off. There is one fan that blows on my extruder motor, but very little blows past it to hit the print plate at all. Thank youby tjhj2 - General
I am not exactly sure what settings you are referring to. Can you be more specific? I've checked all feed lengths and movement to find them all correct. Temps are based off an internal barrel temp measured using a thermocouple.by tjhj2 - General
Hi, So I have recently moved to trying to primt ABS after getting PLA dialed in. But no matter where I set the extruded temps I have no parts strength. They just crumble in my hands. I am also having part warping issues where although the base is stuck using abs slurry, the part literally pulls so hard it seperates the layers below it. I am using a Prusa Mendel Heated Bed - 110deg Makergear Noby tjhj2 - General
Hey All, Is there a stance on using the fan ducts with 40mm fans? I have been running but have been having a really hard time getting bridgesor overhangs to come out. Any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated. Thank Youby tjhj2 - Tantillus
@Lisa QuoteLisa M. Your tantillus kit must be different from mine. I've got the one where the SD port is attached to the board (I have to reach inside) and there is no cable. Is there a cable available somewhere that I could use to get easier access to the SD port and also get the port out of the path of the print bed? Lisa there are a few different ways to make an extension cable. Since it pluby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hello, I am having some blobbing issues and was wondering how much retract you guys are running? I have been running 7mm at 45mm/s with the larger bowden cable the 3/16 ID one. I can't seem to get this blobbing to stop. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.by tjhj2 - Tantillus