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Re: Heated build plate not hot enough - I think. - 11 years ago
Ok. So if we need more heat we should have the trace up but we would need to have more support under the middle of the pcb to account for bowing due to a greater expansion of the solid metal surface.by sleepykat - General
Re: Heated build plate not hot enough - I think. - 11 years ago
Ok. had to take it apart to redo the spring setup. Yes, I see under the silkscreen which looks like a solid sheet of metal(Cu). Is this the part that heats up as well? I thought only the trace heats up thereby heating up everything else. So the solid Cu heats up first then the trace, ok, I see why it would bow on the side of the solid Cu. Once I rework the springs, I will look at so siliconeby sleepykat - General
Re: Heated build plate not hot enough - I think. - 11 years ago
I checked my board an cannot see a solid Cu backing. From the , it does not have the solid Cu as well so is there a newer design somewhere?. From the reprap pcb wiki pic link, it looks like I setup mine very different from their pic. I enclosed my side profile of my heatbed setup. From the top is glass then pcb with trace up, 1/4" spacer, silicone baking sheet, acrylic, springs/etc, ending wby sleepykat - General
Re: Heated build plate not hot enough - I think. - 11 years ago
Ok, I think I need to examine my heated bed closer. So under the trace there should be solid Cu?by sleepykat - General
Re: Heated build plate not hot enough - I think. - 11 years ago
Oh, we may be talking something different here...I have no solid copper side. I have a MK1 pcb with etched Cu trace (the zig zag) with the connection point and spot for an led/resistor if I desire but there is no solid Cu side. It's just has silkscreen writing. Now if you are talking about the acrylic bed part bowing, I have a silicone bake sheet as an temperature buffer between it and the pcb wby sleepykat - General
Re: Heated build plate not hot enough - I think. - 11 years ago
No bowing down of the pcb that I noticed....I would figure that if it would bow, it would bow downward more if the trace was on the under side at metal expands faster until the temperature evens out. At present I have with the trace between the glass and the pcb , I think it works nicely transferring the heat directly onto the glass and it does a nice job of maintaining heat. I have version 1 whby sleepykat - General
Re: Heated build plate not hot enough - I think. - 11 years ago
My bed would not get passed 80 so I flipped my Prusa designed PCB HBP. So instead of the trace being on the bottom of the pcb then the glass, it is between the pcb board and the glass. I now hit 100. Use some sugru to insulate the contacts on the pcb.by sleepykat - General
Re: Motor thumping - 11 years ago
Zimtower Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am using a Printrboard and it NEVER overheats. > The only time it "skips" is when there is a power > issue, the printrboard is EXTREMELY sensitive to > power failure. The only way I could get my > printrboard to stop acting funny was to feed it > pure power from a UPS battery backup. Also, what > is tby sleepykat - General
Re: Motor thumping - 11 years ago
had luck but still make the thumping/misstep after abit then it goes away and then comes back. Now in process of gutting another ATX power supply just to see. Everything starts fine but that random thumping/ratheting/misstep thing is just fustrating and depressing me and I have to walk way from the project for a few days.by sleepykat - General
Re: Motor thumping - 11 years ago
I should go larger fan than the 60mm? I though the 60 was a bit overkill. I had tried it both on the board and the extruder but no charge.The only thing that was hot was the extruder motor and I have no problem with the extrusion sofar...by sleepykat - General
Re: Motor thumping - 11 years ago
There are these trim pots next to the chip/heatsink of the pololu boards. The pots look like a 5mm square with a circle in the middle with a line indent going across the circle that you can carefully insert a small flat heat screwdriver onto. Each Pololu has a trimpot located next to the heatsink. The trimpot controls the current that is sent to each motor. Turning the trimpot counter-clockwiseby sleepykat - General
Re: Motor thumping - 11 years ago
I have no heatsink on the controller chips but I have done the "turn down the pots until it does not move to 1/8 when it does" several time. The only motor that is hot is the extruder motor. I tried putting a 60mm fan directly on it but no change. I thought about a possible power issue as well and the setup has been on a 1500VA APC UPS since yesterday. It could be that my PSU is not that cleanby sleepykat - General
Motor thumping - 11 years ago
Do I need another board? Just going thru lots of ABS and just about to use a hammer on it. I'm using a printrboard/Marlin/Slic3r/Pronterface setup with Kysan steppers and 2mm pitch linear belts with 36 teeth pulley ( smallest # of teeth I could find), Head at 230 bed at 110... and it would be printing fine then the whole system would then start "thumping" in mid print and the motors would miss/by sleepykat - General