Hey Sanjay, great write-up. I know this is pretty old, but the technique worked a charm for me. For the tube section, I used 1/8" ID steel break line that I had laying around (and can be bought in very short sections at the local auto parts store). It works perfectly for my 3mm filament, the OD is 3/16" I think? So that is the drill bit size I used. I cut the 'V' with a dremel and used needlby a_shorething - General
I'm using Repetier Host as well with 40mm fan, have the same problem. Will be paying attention to this thread...by a_shorething - General
Matt, What we have here is a failure to communicate. You still maintain that the populace in McGinn county somehow failed to do their civic duty by not voting these guys out. They DID vote them out, but the people running the show took the ballot boxes, counted the votes and told the people they had won. Democracy wasn't working. Votes were cast but not counted. People were paid to vote aby a_shorething - General
Deepbreath, Take a deep breath. Your setup is the same as mine except for the software. I'm not using Pronterface, I'm using Repetier Host which allows you to use Slic3r or Skeinforge but you can send commands through to the board and get a response with any of these. Did you build all of the boards (Ramps and the Polulu drivers) or did they come pre-assembled? You said you don't find anby a_shorething - General
Matt, You are saying that the citizenry should have voted these people out, but the whole gist of the first part of the article was that the elections were rigged. They tried that. So if your vote is cast and then ignored, what is the next course of action? According to the Lincoln quote you posted, the only recourse is to rebel physically. In that case the article says they stormed the armorby a_shorething - General
@Haveblue, Thank you for that. My point exactly.by a_shorething - General
bobc Wrote: > Ok, now we have really jumped the shark > True enough, but many people fail to remember that 'Happy Days' continued for years after they 'jumped the shark'. My point was that technology is always ahead of laws and will always develop in advance of laws simply because you can't pre-empt what could potentially happen in the future no matter how much you try. Bad people andby a_shorething - General
You're missing the point about the concept of allowing private ownership of 'weapons' instead of just tools to hunt or target shoot with. Power corrupts and absolute power corrupts absolutely. There are many cases of people in seemingly impervious positions deciding that their idea of 'right' allowed them to force others to do what they said. One of the many things (and the last resort) keeby a_shorething - General
Very interesting discussion that has almost nothing to do with 3D Printing. Have any of you gun control lobbyists considered the simple fact that those guns were STOLEN from their rightful owner before they were used? The mother owned them legally and I haven't read anything about her using them illegally. Her son stole them from her and used them against their rightful owner, then continuedby a_shorething - General
Your problem isn't first layer adhesion, it's that your stop is not adjusted to 'z'. You can compensate with the settings (software) but then you'll have to keep fiddling with it with each setting and remember that it's there. If you fix your hardware you don't have to do this and it's not difficult. Here's what I do if I haven't used the printer in a while or if it's messing up the first layeby a_shorething - General Mendel Topics
You might want to rethink the whole thing long term not because of temps but because of the humidity. If your in an un 'conditioned' environment like a garage or basement I think your biggest potential problem long term is going to be your PLA absorbing humidity and becoming difficult to work with.by a_shorething - General
@orcinus: Have you tried adjusting the temps in single degrees or even tenths of a degree? I'd suggest trying a calibration piece and every few layers just bump the temp a minor amount like a couple tenths of a degree or at most 1 full degree C. Watch the temp monitor to see that it's equalized and check the results. I think the white has a much narrower band of useable temps. I could adjustby a_shorething - General
Hey peqo, I think I may have a solution for you. Did you build the pololu driver boards yourself? If so (and I guess even if you bought them from someone else) you may find that the problem is in the soldering. The fact that it's worse when it's slower is key because stepper motors use more amperage to hold the motor position than to spin it. I had a similar problem that was intermittent aby a_shorething - General Mendel Topics
I don't know what you mean by z-wobble issues but I can say that you will need to remove as much 'slop' from every axis as possible to get clean prints. Good luck!by a_shorething - General
Yup, I'm good to go now. It was just a much higher range than I had been using for the other colors so I didn't take it that high. First layer print: 201 C bed temp 70 C After that: 198 C, bed temp 65 C. I think my biggest mistake was going in 5 degree increments. The white (for me at least) seems to have a narrow printable 'band' and if you think about it metric gives a much higher resolutiby a_shorething - General
Thanks again, I was thinking the same thing about moisture and it has been a little humid here, but the roll has only been opened for a couple of weeks and it started doing this pretty much out of the gate. I think I may have it figured out, or at least partially. I was working in a range of 165 to about 185 or 190 C and thinking it was dripping out of the nozzle but before I gave up I decideby a_shorething - General
Quotejamesdanielv > it sounds like your running it too hot for the > speed you are depositing it. either speed up your > feedrate or lower your temp 5-10deg c, then by 5 > deg c until it no longer drips out. Thanks. The temp is the first thing I started playing with, knowing that different colors will have different properties and that the hardware calibration was pretty much dialby a_shorething - General
No, this is the only one I've tried. It's from a supplier with a great reputation (ultimachine) and the other filament I've gotten from them has always been fine and very predictable. I have read that some people have had trouble getting white PLA to stick to the bed on the first layer, but for me it really wasn't isolated to the first layer, it's all of them.by a_shorething - General
Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone holds the key to my dilemma: I have been able to get things really well calibrated with several different colors of PLA from Ultimachine and wasn't expecting any issues with the roll of white I recently got. Unfortunately no matter what I try I can't seem to get a clean part. For some reason the white coughs up huge blobs and then the print head dragsby a_shorething - General
I've occationally had the same problem. When my extruder starts clicking or 'bucking' I know that I need to adjust it quickly or it will dig into the filament and I'll have a whole new set of problems. For me it was with PLA and the temp was too low, usually dialing it up a bit did the trick (4-5 deg. C). Have you taken measurements of the cross-section of your filament over 8-10 places (atby a_shorething - General
Thanks everyone. That advanced setting for width is definitely the ticket. I still seem some gaps in one or two of the gear teeth but it's MUCH better. I may have to look further into the ID of the gear, it's still too small and uneven. Maybe that's the fan issue. I just got a fan from Ultimachine and I need to install it in the next few days. I think I'm at 15mm/sec first layer, 20 for pby a_shorething - General
I guess so. I was trying to learn Skeinforge but the interface is not very friendly and my prints were getting worse not better. I think it requires you to understand all of the settings MORE than Slic3r though, doesn't it (meaning Skeinforge is even dumber but requires the user to be smarter)? I'm printing with the new settings now, will post results. I can't wait because this is my firstby a_shorething - General
Sweet, thanks! I'll try that. (The other thread said to set the width explicitly at 1.5-1.7 times the layer height, instead of letting the software fill it in. I'm using .2 mm, so I'm thinking .3 for the width should do it. Will report back.by a_shorething - General
Can anyone point me in the direction of the solution for this setting? I'm trying to print a set of gears I designed in Autocad. I'm using Slic3r through Repetier host and I've tried what I think are all of the speeds and settings, but I can't seem to get it to print this thing right. The diameter of the interior hole is too small and the top part of the inner gear is hollow between the axle aby a_shorething - General
I got 404-ed trying to follow the github link as well. DeuxVis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Paoparts, when this happens, you can just navigate > back up to the user github home and check his > projects list : Thanks for the link to the top of the tree.by a_shorething - General Mendel Topics
Sorry, didn't know if you were talking to me or the OP. Sorry for the hijack Harbi, I hope this discussion helps your situation. My PS is a PC power supply that can handle 17Amps of draw. It doesn't have the auxiliary cap to bump the voltage, but it's putting out 11.9vdc. The voltage doesn't seem to drop at all under full load with the extruder and heated bed cranking so I didn't put the extrby a_shorething - General Mendel Topics
I can confirm that dialing up the power on the X and Y solves the symptoms. I won't try to say that this is the cure, because I'm too new at this to make that claim, but dialing up the power on both of them just slightly (.10 volts difference) did the trick. I've done several prints since then including the one that was shifting every time and every one has been perfect.by a_shorething - General Mendel Topics
Matt, So you're saying the RAMPS/drivers were generating heat and when you started cooling it the problem cleared up? I don't have any fans on any of my system yet, but I think the drivers are running too hot now. Problem is, any cooler and I think it causes a similar skipping of steps. Seems like I need to add some fans. and for the last question. I don't know what MF is, so I don't thinby a_shorething - General Mendel Topics
Hey Matt, How's it going? Was that question for me or for the OP? If it's for me, the heat sinks on the stepper drivers are too hot to keep my finger on, but I haven't actually taken a temp. I can say that the overnight print came out with no shift (yay!) with the X and Y both up in the .36-.41 volts range. I know that's only one print, but this particular part (part of the intrinsically aby a_shorething - General Mendel Topics
Ok tested my theory last night. I had adjusted the pot on the Pololu driver for the Y axis up from .26 volts to about .36 and no Y axis shift on the next print. This time it was on the X-axis . Checked that and it was about .26 as well, so I'm going to bump that one to about .30 and try it again now. Here's my thinking on why this is intermittent and why more amperage is the fix (up to a poby a_shorething - General Mendel Topics