flurin Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Did you use the Arduino IDE for your > Printrbot/Board? Yes, version 0022, which is what is recommended. This problem showed up within the last week. I have no idea what caused it. Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Find a file "boards.txt" inside the Arduino > package. Thby 4t1fy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
As far as I know the Arduino IDE does not have a setting to change the baud rate. Any suggestions as to how I could fix it?by 4t1fy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm currently attempting to load Marlin v1.0.0 on to my Rev. C Printrboard. The Printrboard has the CDC bootloader. When I try to upload the firmware to the board through the Arduino IDE, I get the following error: Connecting to programmer: . Found programmer: Id = "BóÎ"; type = Software Version = . ; Hardware Version = . avrdude: error: buffered memory access not supported. Maybe it isn'tby 4t1fy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm not sure what it was with the MakerFarm nozzle that caused it to pop, but I ended up getting a QU-BD MBE extruder and ended up loving it. If I had to recommend an extruder and nozzle setup, I'd go with that.by 4t1fy - Printing
I guess I'll just have to watch the temperature next time I fire it up. I've never had the hot end over heat before, but I'll look into it. Is there anywhere in the US where I can buy PTFE tubing without ordering it?by 4t1fy - Printing
MotoBarsteward, I'll be trying this when I get a new hot end. I've done something similar with the thumbscrews I installed on my heated bed, but I'll try it your way. Personally I feel that the first layer is too squashed, so that's what I'll be looking to fix. reifsnyderb, I'm printing neon green protoparadigm ABS with a pre-assembled hot end from MakerFarm. I'm not sure of the original colorby 4t1fy - Printing
So do you think that my hot end needs to be higher off of my print bed? My bed is perfectly level to the hot end, so I know it's not that. As for calibrating the extruder, can you link me to a good guide on that? I've followed a few and thought that it was good, but who knows. As for not needing a whole new hot end, I don't feel comfortable using this one at least for the moment. I'm probably goiby 4t1fy - Printing
So today I was printing an iPhone case for my girlfriend and just to give my printer a good run. While the case was printing, I left my house for about 20 minutes to go get some food. When I came back my J-Head had more or less (in my opinion) exploded. The piece of PTFE tubing lay burnt and twisted on my heated bed amongst a pile of filament. The brass nozzle had cracked from the plastic nozzleby 4t1fy - Printing
I recommend reading this. Mostly, just print (or otherwise acquire) the thumb screws. I have them on mine with the four screw setup. Leveling was a cinch; I placed a sheet of paper on my print bed and used pronterface to move my extruder to each corner and the middle of the plate. Just turn the thumbscrews until you can move the paper from under the nozzle with just a bit of resistance.by 4t1fy - General
I added an 8ohm 20w sand resistor across the +5v line and my PSU works like a charm. Thanks all.by 4t1fy - General
yellow_fish Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > They really are, I have a few left over too for my > next printer(s). 40A supply for under £20 is > pretty unbeatable! I struggled to find a PC PSU > that had high current rails then found how cheap > server ones are! The fan is pretty loud, although > still quieter than my old PSU which was a Chinese &by 4t1fy - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Unfortunately this paragraph is complete nonsense. > Don't believe everything you read on the web! Haha, yeah I guess you're right. That doesn't make much sense at all. As for putting a load on the +5v line, what do you recommend? Most places suggest a resistor, but I haven't seen a consensus on what type is best.by 4t1fy - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What is the 12V current rating of your PSU? +12v @ 19A. It was puled from an old HP computer. It's 300 watts. In the case of connecting a +12v to a purple cable, I was following this guide here.by 4t1fy - General
Hey guys, I need some help with powering my RepRap. I've read every thread in the forums and every page on the wiki I could find about the subject, but I've yet to sucessfully power my printrboard with a converted ATX PSU. My attempts include splicing PS_ON to ground, +5v to a 20w 5ohm resistor to ground and +12 volt to a purple cable. The PSU either no longer turns on after modification or killsby 4t1fy - General
The resistance checked out okay and adding kapton over the thermistor seemed to help. Thanks.by 4t1fy - General
Hey guys, this is my first post so feel free to move it if it's in the wrong section. So here's my problem: I recently built a Prusa i2 which has been working great up until now. Recently, the build plate has stopped heating properly (a MK1 pcb). Where it used to heat up to 110C easily, it will no longer heat up past 80C. It isn't insulated but as it never was I don't feel that's the problem. Iby 4t1fy - General