Show all posts by user
General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Page 1 of 2 Pages: 12
Results 1 — 30 of 41
Re: What upgrade is better? - 10 years ago
Do some reasearch on the scanner, look at the limitations, and have a few ideas on what you want to scan. If they have a manual look at that. I found with another brand of scanner is that what I wanted to scan which was objects that were dark or glossy and what I could scan were two diffrent things usually light colored and non glossey showed up better with at least the other brand. For me that'sby cameronm - General
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! 
[Many Pictures] - 10 years ago
RP Iron Man, Please do keep this thread updated on 0.6 nozzle. I am glad you have interest in using T-Glass with Prometheus. I did a quick search and it seems that makergeeks.com sells a PLA thats food safe. So this might work in the mean time. Thanks, Cameronby cameronm - General
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! [Many Pictures] - 10 years ago
A2, That's pretty much what Tom said from Taulman. Hopefully he does not mind me posting this here. He says, "Actually it does depend a bit on the type of part and how much surface area comes in contact with the food. The problem is not microbacterial, but rather a tiny amount of lead in brass nozzles. The correct nozzle is a stainless steel one, but no one makes one I know of. The amount ofby cameronm - General
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! [Many Pictures] - 10 years ago
Thanks for the quick response. Oh that's to bad, no one sells a SS hotend with a nozzle size of 0.6mm. Well, I definitely will be keeping an eye on this project in hopes for the larger nozzle size. Thanks again, Cameronby cameronm - General
Re: “Prometheus Hot End”: New Customizable All-Metal Hot End! [Many Pictures] - 10 years ago
Hello Eric, I have a couple of questions about the hotend. What type of stainless steel are you using for the one piece nozzle? Have you ever used taulman T-glass with it? I would be interested in using this with T-glass because T-glass is food safe and was hoping this was too. Thank you, Cameronby cameronm - General
Re: Cable Z axis - 11 years ago
Oh no I am printing these parts on a Prusa v2, but I have not played with the settings in Kisslicer that in-depth. Not to sure on what everything does. I probably should take a better look at your Tantillus settings because they are very good! It looks like you put a lot of time and effort in to getting the settings just right. The lead screws drive me nuts so I wanted try out a cable based Z. Iby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Cable Z axis - 11 years ago
Thank you! I played with the settings a little more with your suggestions and got the range down from .64 mm to about .16 mm. Some of the changes I made too were upping the speed of the z axis and the over all speed and setting the Z-Settle down to zero (I don't know if that had anything to do with it but I was thinking it might have just enough time to ooze going up .25mm so I turned it off). Aby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Cable Z axis - 11 years ago
Hello Sublime, I have decided to print up the parts for the cable z but I have a question regarding the drum. How perfectly round does it have to be? I measured the roundness with a caliper and it has a range of .64mm. Will any imperfections on the drum show up in the prints on the Tantillus? I am thinking it must be a calibration error on my machine. But what's strange is at the seam of the priby cameronm - Tantillus
J-Head temperature varies and heats up very fast. - 11 years ago
Hello, I am setting up my J-Head on my Tantillus and I just did a test to 190C and the temperature varied between 187.1C to 192.7C is this normal? I never have used a J-Head before, but all my other hotends (makergear or E3D) stay pretty close to the target temperature. I tried doing an auto PID to 150C and the J-Head heats up very fast and triggers the max temperature of 170C. Does this have anby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Motors are weak. - 11 years ago
Hello, Thanks for the replies! Well this is kind of embarrassing, but I might as well put the solution just in case someone has this "problem" too. The gears ended up not being tightened enough so they were slipping. Thanks again, Cameronby cameronm - Tantillus
Motors are weak. - 11 years ago
Hello, I started to wire my motors up and wanted to do a quick test. But I ended up finding out that my motors seem to be weak. I have adjusted the trim pots on the pololu drives and it helps a little bit, but I cant turn up enough to drive an axis because the motors start to click. Did I just buy weak motors or could there be something more going on? Is my power supply weak? I only I have anby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Burnt Regulator? - 11 years ago
Thank you for the suggestion, I will have to look in to that! Thank you, Cameronby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Burnt Regulator? - 11 years ago
Hello, Yes I do believe there is a diode connected to D1. I guess I looked at the product discription and read "The Tosduino MEGA 2560 is completely compatible with the Arduino MEGA 2560." And assumed it was true! But after reading the specifications it does say input voltage 6-12v. It's Kind of ironic thinking I am saving $20 to $30, but instead end up spending $80 to $90. Maybe I will try toby cameronm - Tantillus
Burnt Regulator? - 11 years ago
Hello, I was following the Tantillus build guide for connecting the power connector and I had it all set up, plugged the power into the Ramps 1.4 and Tosduino Mega I got from lulz bot, the light came on and then a few seconds later smoke started to come out from the Tosduino. I believe its the power regulator that burnt because its right next to the little 3 prong SMD component. I don't know ifby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Light rust on smooth rods - 11 years ago
Yeah I finally got the cable on and have jogging the y axis around and it moving pretty good as is. The only thing is when the axis starts moving there becomes some slack in the cable so its not as responsive. I've followed the instruction, maybe I just need to keep tighting and moving the axis? I can start a new thread if you want on this topic. Thank you, Cameronby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Light rust on smooth rods - 11 years ago
Thank you for the reply. Yeah I wish I knew to put them in some grease, but I didn't know that I was not going to use them for a little while. Anyways I put them on with the rust and every thing seems good but I won't know tell I start jogging the x and y around. Thank you for the suggestion, Cameronby cameronm - Tantillus
Light rust on smooth rods - 11 years ago
Hello, I am about to put my smooth rods on my tantillus, but after inspecting the rods there appears to be what I am assuming is rust on them. Would this be a problem, or should I remove the rust? If so how should I remove rust from O1 steel? If it matters I will be using brass bushings. The rods have been sitting out for awhile due to hotend issues and print quality, but now I got that figuredby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Slight layer misalignment? - 11 years ago
Hello, When I tried the calculator the first time I did: 1.8 Degrees LeadScrew Pitch 2mm Desired layer height .35mm 1 : 1 for gear ratio. At first when I was away from my printer I got 0.3450 and 0.4600. I must have typed in the wrong values? The layer height .35 had an error. Then I go and run it again and it says there is no error for .35mm layer height. So for fun I printed the parts wiby cameronm - General
Slight layer misalignment? - 11 years ago
Hello, I am trying to figure out what would be causing small misaligned layers as shown in the attached picture. I don't know if it is a slight z wobble, settings in marlin, or something else. What I find strange is when I print out a 20x20x20mm cube the layer alignment is near perfect , but when I print out something more complex like the "pyramid cube" I get misalignment. Just in case Iby cameronm - General
Re: who do you use for your lasercut needs ? - 11 years ago
I recommend Colin at Makerfarm.com. Compared to Ponoko (I have used, expensive and slow) and probably Pololu (not used but got quotes) Makerfarm.com is faster and cheaper compared to the two named. I have had both reprap parts (Rostock mini and Tantillus) cut and non reprap parts cut and all were great and in most cases shipped same or next day. Hope that helps, Cameronby cameronm - General
Re: filament squiggly - 11 years ago
I would make sure it is not a hardware issue before you start messing around with the firmware. So, If you are using a machine with two z axis motors make sure the x ends are at the same level. Then make sure your bed is level to your hotend. Then If that does not help make sure your Z axis is properly calibrated so when you send the command to go up 10 mm it goes up 10 mm. I used this video z axby cameronm - General
Re: Hi-Temp PLA printing ? - 11 years ago
Have you ran the Auto PID command? This might make your temperature more steady. Take a look at step number 2. PID Auto Tune in this blog. Auto PID. You could just start off with m303 which will run the hotend up to the default temperature 150 C. But, I would try a lower temperature to start off with instead of 250 C just in case that's to hot for the hotend. -Cameronby cameronm - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 11 years ago
Thank you Simba for answering. That makes sense about the "accuracy gets worse with increasing temperature for NTC thermistors" When I ran a standard Auto PID that gets up to 150C pronterface was reading either dead on or +- .1. For the heater cartridge, in firmware should I change PID_Max to a different value? Or should it be left alone? Does a higher PID_Max have anything to do with a more accby cameronm - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 11 years ago
Hello, I was wondering how accurate everyone's temperatures are when printing with the e3d hotend. With auto PID settings set and my hotend's temperature set to 255C it will go any where from 253.9C - 256.5C. Is this normal? Is there any way to get a more steady reading? Thank you, Cameronby cameronm - General
Re: The Disappointments and Failures of TrinityLabs Aluminatus - 11 years ago
I do not know if you have, but take a look on their google groups forum, there are a few threads that explain whats going on. Particularly these threads:by cameronm - General
Re: Problem with print. Every x cm's of filament I getting too thin lines. What's wrong ? - 11 years ago
What do you mean by "jumping"? Is it the stepper motor jumping around? If not maybe try tighting the idler. I had this problem as well. When I'd turn the big gear at first it required more force to turn and plastic would flow. Then it would let up of prussure needed and very little plastic would extrude. This was for ABS but that shouldn't matter. I did end up turning my tempature up but I dontby cameronm - General
Re: Automatically clearing the bed and starting the next print (Videos+Instructions) - Fully automated production! 
- 11 years ago
Very cool and Very simple! I wonder if you could use Thermoelectric cooling also known as a peltier cooler to immediately start cooling the bed? In G-Code Just turn off the heated bed then turn on the peltier cooler. Just an idea, I saw it on another reprap forum thread. -Cameronby cameronm - General
Re: Printer won't connect! 
- 11 years ago
You might want to try uninstalling the drivers for the board. Worth a try.by cameronm - General
How precise do the rod lengths need to be? - 11 years ago
Hello I was wondering how precise the rod lengths need to be. I did a test cut for the 8mm x 230mm rod and it was 2mm short or 228mm long. Will that work or does it have to be exact on all the rods? Thank you, Cameronby cameronm - Tantillus
Re: Will this motor work? - 11 years ago
Hello, The shipper of the stepper motors linked above seems to not be shipping the motors out in time of the shipping deadline. So, does anybody know of a reputable source for the steppers that can be bought in low quantities. And if possible aready have flat or D shaped motor shaft. Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you, Cameronby cameronm - Tantillus
Page 1 of 2 Pages: 12