and consider a cnc router for large panel manufacturing. you can use modeling foam, cut your shapes, there are coatings to make them smooth, colored, etc.by davew_tx - General
search on 3ders.org. that site highlights all the printers over the years. They posted a article on my kickstarter too! x-truder.......... fail.......by davew_tx - General
you can also buy a large printer. there are a few , but I can't remember them at the moment. you can budget $10k and get started making protos, selling protos, and focus on what makes you money. brute force I can make a machine first: sometimes becomes a time-sink rabbit hole that keeps going down.by davew_tx - General
I'd suggest that Ultem be removed from your needs. You can move quickly to a large format printer. 80/20, linear bearings, belt driven with steppers, get a real extruder (volcano is my choice). You can have break away same material support. one head is plenty to take on for a first try. You can add a dual head later. I made my first printer to make vacuum cleaner prototype parts (Soniclean waby davew_tx - General
300x300x300 is something you can do, following a bunch of ideas. You can buy that size from several people, airwolf, taz maybe, some others. this forum is obviously a make your own, share your data, use group knowledge when you want. developer, maker, innovator, pioneer, etc. read the Digital Dentist UMMD forum... That 80/20 frame and mechanics is a great foundation, and you can construct iby davew_tx - General
ok, i think my advice is a bit over the top. my cnc router last couple of years has me ball screw crazy. you can use belts without issue. servos are always great. steppers work too. my current project is near the size you want and it is conventional and not crazy. no attic, but i don't want 100c air temp. no crazy ultem wishes, just regular volcano capable. i have 1 servo moving the gantry,by davew_tx - General
i am just reading the digital dentist build of his UMMD and love it. great design on all of it. Great print results.by davew_tx - General
So, you are more than the typical "big hat/no cattle" dreamer. It seems you want make a single machine, and then make/sell parts. I ended up writing a manifesto, sorry in advance. I'm not busy evidently. It sounds like you have some budget, which means you get servos and machined/bespoke parts. This opens up creativity and solutions. My $.02 is my own, and might catch some grief, but it is freby davew_tx - General
If you are starting from scratch, without any experience with making a 3D printer, you'll need to realize the task ahead. Design, fabrication, learning firmware, then slicing and control software. Plenty of people do this and you can too. It's definitely a fun journey. What resources do you have? Can you use a real 3D CAD package? Do you have a well equipped workshop? Are you a completeby davew_tx - General
when the firmware/controller are clicking and oscillating, the controller can move steppers in a host. So it's not locked up and unresponsive, just ticking and flashing between screens. I'm still experimenting and starting to add in endstops, and thermistors, hoping that my minimal hook up is the issue.by davew_tx - General
so i have the RC8 Marlin loaded on the X3Pro with a Viki2 LCD. struggling to find out why the board is oscillating and frozen. I even put a RC3 Marlin on it, and it clicked with define Viki2 uncommented, and did not click when I //commented it out. Might be a clue, but ..? I've got no drivers installed, running dummy 998 25C temps, no endstops, heaters, or anything but Viki2. It clicked with andby davew_tx - General
I'm going with an Azteeg X3 Pro, and a Viki 2. Never have had a display, so I hope that works. seems like a good solution to get going with a mixture of open and closed loop motors. If at any point in the future I want closed loop for other axis, that simplifies the access to STEP/DIR pins as well. Here's my starting point for the mechanicals, an old 3D printer I built in 2013 and was abandonedby davew_tx - General
I'm trying to get a RAMBO board to run a dual x-carriage machine. Rambo has 5 drivers for steppers, so i picked up a Leadshine iES-1706, encoder stepper for Y, my heaviest axis. My plan is to drive Y with that, so I need STEP/DIR pins on a header to signal it. Rambo axis assignments will be: X digipot - X1 head Y digipot - X2 head Z digipot - will be Z stepper E0 digi - will be E0 Titan E1 digby davew_tx - General
Thanks for the update and I'll be checking in from time to time to see your solutions. It's a fun hobby.by davew_tx - General
Val, For your big glass idea, be prepared for non flat conditions all over the surface. Pulling the edges down will only work locally near those points, but the center of the glass will not respond to any edge manipulations. The cork in the center will not care that you tweaked some edge. it has no reason to compress even if you moved an edge 1" or more. To solve that, you could useby davew_tx - General
val, nice work for sure. you have solid ideas and I'd say your next batch of challenges will come once you start slicing/hosting/printing and learning about how the machine reacts to heat, time, motion, etc. As for the 4 screw z axis, I had a 2 screw axis (18" parker daedal linear stages, 5mm lead screws, impossible to backdrive) on my first machine and found that I fiddled with the screws tryiby davew_tx - General
did the extrusion test today just shorted it across the battery as mentioned. nichrome around hypodermic needleby davew_tx - General
maybe the large machine size is meant to help customers accept the $700,000 price. To go large, 80/20 is hard to beat. It just makes sense, given all the pros and the few cons.by davew_tx - General
On the topic of large nozzles, you need to have a long heat zone or you will be limited in print speed. I've used heater zones of 1" and 1.5" long and found that when shoving filament into the hotend, the cold filament can reach all the way to the nozzle exit hole. this of course causes a loss of steps, or a striped out condition at the drive wheel. Only slower printing or longer heat zones imby davew_tx - General
@val I did a big piece of glass and it wasn't close to flat. 22x17x1/2 inch there was about 1mm (5 print layers) twist from corner to corner. really not usable for large printing and it kept me confined to one side. I mounted it with 3 wingnut screws to the z-plate and I might have been able to solve the twist with 4 screws and adjustments. tempered glass is heavy but I see you have 4 motby davew_tx - General
that should do it. try it. fast and easy to reload firmware. i play around with lots of changes and am always surprised when it works.by davew_tx - General
nice job. "you will spend many contemplative hours......" only those who've spent the hours know how funny that is.by davew_tx - Developers
geez, I just noticed his last posting was July. I thought it was current. what a waste. he's probably on cnczone or practical machinist or ?by davew_tx - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
here's a good reference for ideas. kickstarter 5axis The BlackMill is also a good foundation for an 80/20 based machine. You could adapt the A/B axis to this easily. CAD is available also and it's nicely modeled. BlackMill this guy did a great job with belt driven cnc mill. he uses smaller belts than I suggest below. good speeds, and he cuts aluminum with nice finish results. belt design Canby davew_tx - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I think the "rumor" is tied to consumers driving the price down, the quality down and bitching when their item breaks and is disposable. With almost everything being made in China, I think it's safe to say most everyone has come across "cheap china crap". Two years ago prices were different, and there was less selection, and I paid only a few dollars over the budget stuff. Today, their productsby davew_tx - General
I kind of agree with you about patriotism marketing, for pride and quality and all of that. I see that. I can also accept being a fool and not smart. Thanks for picking on me. Glad you got the extruder to work with the amperage tweak.by davew_tx - General
would be possible, but I wouldn't. I could see it working for a slow moving head, with lightweight members, with large glue areas. you could use many types of glue, not just jb weld.by davew_tx - General
you're hoping that the 0.002" difference in ID to filament is enough?? I had that on a direct drive and filament jammed within the tube. It wasn't' immediate, but some random time later, when a batch of filament had a varying diameter. in this picture, you can actually see the diameter difference. This was not cheap china crap, and when I sent the image to the supplier, he sent me a replacemeby davew_tx - General