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Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotegreenman100 Quoteplexus Has anyone with a v5 tried a v6? I use v5 and want to know if its worth the $100 to upgrade the relevant parts/nozzles to v6? (I am guessing not, but would like to know) specifically I am looking for data on print quality v5 vs v6. thanks! The upgrade would be much closer to $60, since you can reuse the fan, heater, and thermistor. $61.46 from Filastruder, in fact.by plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Has anyone with a v5 tried a v6? I use v5 and want to know if its worth the $100 to upgrade the relevant parts/nozzles to v6? (I am guessing not, but would like to know) specifically I am looking for data on print quality v5 vs v6. thanks!by plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quote3DogNate No, I'll not go to that length... I need to be able to trust the people I buy from to handle any quality control issues... They should not be conducting business if they can't control a thing like that. My personal feeling is that you should correspond with E3D exclusively and stop wasting our time on this forum since you are unwilling to try anything we suggest and ultimately areby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quote3DogNate QuoteA2 Correct me if I have misinterpreted you, but you were the cause of the first hot end failure (bent heat break), and the bent heat break caused the filament to jam, is this correct. If this is the case, lets assume that you are the cause of the second failure, and conduct a test to determine if the heat break was bent again. There is an assumption that the bore of the barreby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
QuoteNewPerfection Quotethejollygrimreaper Quote3DogNate Quotethejollygrimreaper Quote3DogNate Geezz.... I'm ashamed to be referred to as a geek sometimes. Back to my hot end... If you have something to contribute to having a successful E3D implementation I'm happy to hear it... otherwise... don't waste the thread space. are you running the bulldog XL or the bulldog lite? and which size of theby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quote3DogNate Quotegreenman100 Quote3DogNatethat end of the heat sink is colder than the ambient temp in the room thanks to two fans blowing on the heat sink.,.. so it's irrelevant to my filament jamming up. This is exciting, you have broken the laws of thermodynamics! Huh??? are you saying that if you blow a fan on a room temperature block of aluminum that it is impossible to cool it to belowby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
I know it might be a pain, but if you can measure the temp along the filament path from top to bottom, with the heatsink fan running etc as usual. use a thermocouple or thermistor based digital thermometer (not an IR thermometer as they are too inaccurate). what you are looking for is an sign that the path and heat break are getting to hot. if so this will soften and expand the filament prematureby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quoteroyfranz At the end of the day, my decision may not be made on technical merit, but on availability of filament. This is why I implore people to go with 3mm. If you concede to 1.75 then we will lose out on the better format for 3D printing. having to deal with filament jams is not just inconvenient. imagine a jam 6 hours into an 8 hour print that weighs 1/2 a spool of material. waste and cby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
You just have to face it. 3mm has more benefits than 1.75. Yes its thinner and cuter lol but its over-all inferior to 3mm.by plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotegreenman100 Quoteplexus Hi Jkoljo. think of filament as being steel cable: its harder to pull thick steel cable off a spool than thinner steel cable because the thicker stuff is less flexible. so the motor needs more torque to pull the thicker material off the reel. this is why we have to use a geared extruder to get more torque from the motor, in exchange for speed. 1.75 is easier to pull oby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotegmh39 That makes me reconsider selling the huge box of 3mm abs I have... Don't believe the hype. Insist on 3mm and definitely keep that 3mm filament (or give it to meby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotejkoljo How do you explain there being less stress to the motor with 3mm filament? Also, 1.75 mm filament will usually give you better volumetric extrusion accuracy. The diameter accuracy in both is usually about the same, but the area is calculated with a second power of radius.. I agree with Sanjay that keeping both models is good, because of the flexible filaments. Hi Jkoljo. think of filby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotetjb1 Quoteplexus QuoteSanjayM Recently I've been doing some statistical analysis of how problems occur and it has become clear that almost all issues surrounding jamming happen in 1.75mm versions, with most (80%+) of those problems being in 1.75mm Bowden systems. Just don't drop support for 3mm like so many other companies. 3mm is far superior to 1.75 and its not surprising to see your staby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
QuoteSanjayM Recently I've been doing some statistical analysis of how problems occur and it has become clear that almost all issues surrounding jamming happen in 1.75mm versions, with most (80%+) of those problems being in 1.75mm Bowden systems. Just don't drop support for 3mm like so many other companies. 3mm is far superior to 1.75 and its not surprising to see your stats on this. I wish morby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Just an update. I've used PLA, ABS, HIPS, polycarbonate, Laywo3d, Taulman 618, 645 and PETT using the E3B (3mm) and its been working amazingly great! I keep expecting problems but the thing just keeps on printing. Out of laziness I keep the 0.6mm on and print from 200um to 500um layers and its been great. I will experiment with the smaller nozzles another time. I had to give up my material coolinby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Thing is, I have been using hot ends that completely ignore all this research. its just a heated brass tube leading into a nozzle. there is no real attention paid to ideal diameter and flow spaces. they work pretty well. however I agree that these more advanced ideas would make for a much better hot end. i believe i have experienced extrusion issues related to the lack of the tapered melt sectionby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Will, think about it. the cooling will only be effective down to the temp of the air in the chamber. mine stays in the 40-50C range when ambient is around 20C. presumably if you increase ambient, fin cooling will go up. you will have to experiment to see if it too high with whatever material you use.by plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Guitar strings! great idea. Today I spent the day (yes day) trying to get 1.75mm taulman t-glase to print using a E3D v5 1.75 end. no go after many hours and working through all the variables. when I switch to PLA or ABS 1.75, prints like a dream. in fact doing all the tweeks with t-glase helped with PLA and ABS. I just completed a 2 hour print with PLA with no problems. But lets back up a bit..by plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
QuoteAlexBorro After burning all the material inside the nozzle, I tried to pass a 0.2mm cooper wire through the hole, but no success.. it gets in about 1mm and then bends.., Really difficult to clean theses nozzles.. It would be better if E3D provide us with a wire to clean the nozzle.. it is not that easy to find a 0.25mm diameter hard wire.. Try heating it even more. but be careful! not to tby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
QuoteAlexBorro Guys, I've got my first clogged nozzle. It is the 0.25mm version.. I could not push the filament through the hotend by hand. I replaced the nozzle by the original one (0.4mm) and it worked like a charm. So I drilled the clogged nozzle with a 2mm drill to remove all the plastic.. but I guess the small 0.25mm is clogged because even doing that, I cannot push filament... Do you guyby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quoteextent If you have a separate mating surface in the heat block for the heat break then you have to torque it to make a seal, which will lead to people over torquing it and destroying the thin wall heatbreak. By mating the nozzle and the heatbreak inside the block you get all the sealing forces by torquing the nozzle against the heat block, both of which are much sturdier. Either way you haby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
ok heating the nozzle up helped to clean it out and I am back to printing. one thing to watch when doing this is that the nozzles are brass so when you heat they soften. careful with holding them with pliers because they can easily distort. better to use tweezers holding onto the shell from the threaded side. I'd love the heat block to be structured like I mentioned, with a separarate threaded hby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Quotenew to3Dbob Wow, I can't imagine how it could get that hot. Mine is barly warm at the bottom fin. I had a jam during an overnight print and didn't notice until I checked on it the next morning. The drive gear stripped the filament trying to push it but nothing was blocked up near the heat sink. Maybe the fan stopped. One annoying aspect of the E3D is that the nozzle and the heat break meetby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
Same here. Major blockage. however in my case this just resulted in a lot of frustration. i have it all soaking in acetone, hoping. this was with LAYWOO-D3 printing at about 200C. 0.6mm nozzle. the clog is in the nozzle and caused filament to then sit in the heat break and melt. trying to push more filament through just caused a melted filament traffic jam. no choice but to complete remove the hoby plexus - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago
I got a 3mm and 1.75mm. I much prefer 3mm but since the world is moving towards 1.75 I had no choice but to get both. Assembly was straightforward, without instructions, and it installed on my Printrbot+ v1 with no issues. It... just... works. Its slightly shorter than the stock Ubis hotend but no adjustments were necessary. Great results with ABS and PLA. I am still working on polycarbonate - thby plexus - General
Re: Revival of the Bits from Bytes Community - 11 years ago
johnrpm Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I get a 404 from that link. > > I can see why people buy kits or pre-built > printers, but you are then at the mercy of their > marketing department, > and you count for little in the end, build your > own system, then you are in control, and get to > learn and be creative, not just an end user. Tby plexus - General
Re: Print something really tiny competition 28thJan > Feb15th. - 11 years ago
I'd love to see your 200€ DLP resin printer and sample output!by plexus - Competitions
Re: Print something really tiny competition 28thJan > Feb15th. - 11 years ago
yes but a printrbot with all the upgrades is <$1000by plexus - Competitions
Re: Print something really tiny competition 28thJan > Feb15th. - 11 years ago
And I've been able to push this to 3mm high which is 12% scale from the original Made possible with the Jerrill's 0.2mm nozzleby plexus - Competitions
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