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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Creating a single wall spiral in slicer program - 12 years ago
Ok, so the primary issue seems to be the thin walls. Making the walls 2 mm instead of my planned 0.7 mm allows the part to slice properly. printing only walls on that would give me two separate springs after I cut them off each other. Where do I inform slic3rs developer of bugs? This is clearly one.by Speedsoda - General
Re: Creating a single wall spiral in slicer program - 12 years ago
Hmm okay. Then we're on the same page. I really don't get what the problem is either. I guess I'll try some different spirals and see if I can figure out the problem.by Speedsoda - General
Re: Creating a single wall spiral in slicer program - 12 years ago
So I tried making the model that I wanted, but Slic3r won't slice it. I've waited 20 minutes and it's stuck on "analyzing model" or whatever the first step is. I've attached the stl-file. I've tried analyzing the model in netfabb but it doesn't give any clues. Anyone have any ideas what's wrong? I mean it's a simple model, I don't get why it wouldn't work.by Speedsoda - General
Creating a single wall spiral in slicer program - 12 years ago
Hi, I want to experiment with printing torsion/spiral springs for a project. My requirements are low force over a large number of revolutions, so I need thin walls spaced closely together. Therefore I want the walls to be single wall. I.e I just want the printer to draw a spiral, with ONE wall. As far as I know, making a thin spiral cad model, the slicing software will still make two walls. Howby Speedsoda - General
Re: ERR: MAX TEMP error on printer - 12 years ago
No, as I said, it triggers at 235, there is no overshoot. Both my computer and the LCD display reports the temperature to be exactly 235 when it shuts off. Somewhere in some code, 235 seems to be defined as some sort of limit and I can't find it. When I tried changing MAXTEMP to 270, it would only let me go as high as 220, even though it was previously 250. Didn't seem to matter though, it looksby Speedsoda - General
ERR: MAX TEMP error on printer - 12 years ago
Hi, I just got myself my second 3d printer, a Prusa i3, which is awesome so far. I tried printing PLA with it, and besides some issues releated to settings it prints great. However, when I was going to try to print some ABS, I got a MAX TEMP error. It seems to consistently trigger as I reach 235 degrees C. This leads me to believe that it's some firmware failsafe thing or whatnot, and I feel liby Speedsoda - General
Re: Second 3d printer tips - 12 years ago
Okay, so I see a Mendel90 vs Mendelmax situation forming. Any suggestions?by Speedsoda - General
Re: Second 3d printer tips - 12 years ago
Okay, so mendelmax seems like a reliable choice. Can anyone give me any insight on Ralph Hiltons post above? Mendel90, is it any good? 499 £ is pretty good as well.by Speedsoda - General
Second 3d printer tips - 12 years ago
Hi everybody. I have been thinking about selling my current 3d printer (iprint creator) and buying myself a new one instead since I feel it's not quite enough. Mostly I'm looking for a bigger print volume. My current print volume is about 10x10x10 cm, and I want at least 20 cm cube. It's also quite slow, I never seem to reliably be able go over 50 mm/s. I think twice that should not be a problemby Speedsoda - General
Re: Extruder motor skipping/slipping - 13 years ago
I don't know what happens when the driver overheats, so I'm not gonna go into that, but some general thoughts: I can think of two things happening here, that I've seen myself: Motor is not strong enough, because of too low drive current or too high work load. It will then make a nasty low frequncy "brrruuuup" noise. OR it's entered crazymode. I do not know what causes this, but I sometimes seeby Speedsoda - Printing
Re: What is going on with this print? - 13 years ago
A fan usually makes a great improvement in small parts. Just make sure it doesn't cool down your nozzle so much that you get extrusion problems onstead. Been there done that . took me a while to figure out. Edit: Also, the reason your interior spaces don't llok good is good old fashioned stringing. Numerous ways exist to handle this problem: Retracting filament when making travel moves. Lower prby Speedsoda - Printing
Re: What causes little holes in the surface? - 13 years ago
I see you solved the problem, but there can be different causes to this: * Too little plastic being extruded, as in your case. Could be caused by incorrect printer settings, jams or poor grip. * Also, overheating. If the first top layer is still soft and hot when the hotend makes the next pass, it could be ripped up due to the fact that it's so fragile. Solved with a fan.by Speedsoda - Printing
Re: Weird printing result - 13 years ago
I think it looks a lot like extruder jamming. The filament starts slipping due to high resistance, and not enough plastic is deposited in that area. Clean out your nozzle Try raising the temperature Lower your printing speed See if you can improve the grip on the filament in some way Edit: I see you have tried some different temps, but which ones? I use cheap chinese pla with a cheap chinese prby Speedsoda - Printing
Re: "Best" bowden extruder? - 13 years ago
I don't think the filament is to blame. I have used two different brands of filament, with no real change inbetween. As far as I can see, the filament fits fine. I might try cooling the cold end and see if it helps, but I doubt it. The hobbed bolt is a hobbed bolt, and it is very much hobbed still. I don't see how a new one would change anything.by Speedsoda - Reprappers
Re: "Best" bowden extruder? - 13 years ago
Huh. Okay thanks for the info. I do not really have room for any more major projects now(As in changing the hot end entirely), so would it make sense to try and grind/lathe the nozzle a bit to reduce orifice length? Also how on earth would you even measure the orifice length? I can't really think of a simple way...by Speedsoda - Reprappers
Re: "Best" bowden extruder? - 13 years ago
Greg Frost Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If your extruder is weak, why do you want to reuse > the motor? Also, perhaps the problem is not that > your extruders is weak, but that your hotend > requires too much extrusion force. Well, I never said the motor was weak. The extruder as a whole is weak, meaning filament will start stripping, in my opinionby Speedsoda - Reprappers
"Best" bowden extruder? - 13 years ago
Hi I am having a lot of trouble with my extruder. I am using the slightly more unknown brand 3d stuff maker/iprint creator. In short, the extruder is weak, which greatly limits my printing speed, and forces me to use high temperatures to get the PLA flowing as easily as possible. Usually I have to print at 215 degrees C which allows me to print at about max. 50 mm/s before the risk of strippingby Speedsoda - Reprappers
"Best" printable(open source) 3d printer? - 13 years ago
Hi I've had a preassembled 3d printer for a few months now, and I'm starting to understand the ins and outs of the whole thing. However, I'm starting to feel sort of limited by my printer and I want to make a better one. My main considerations are a bigger build volume (currently 100x100x120 mm or so) and faster printing(currently topping out at 40-50 mm/s before I get extrusion problems), and aby Speedsoda - General
Re: So, i tried flashing with marlin, now nothing works... - 13 years ago
Polygonhell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You need to set the baudrate in pronterface or > whatever you're using to talk to the arduino to > match the value at the top of configuration.h, I > think Marlin defaults to 250000 Wow, thanks. I was almost sure I had screwed everything up, and that my cheap chinese programmer had done something weird to mby Speedsoda - Reprappers
So, i tried flashing with marlin, now nothing works... - 13 years ago
I received a .hex file which was marlin. Tried to flash this to my gen 6 electronics, and this is what I get when trying to connect with pronterface: Connecting... áqXñ€_r67“hn H2:H\C3›JB%¨°JC>ønŸ\JQ/û~Bz% àë&`—¸»J%IPøq“¹MP6·æ Does anyone know what's up? I don't really know what to do. Also, the printer used to make whizzing noises, I guess that was the stepper motors. Now it's dead sileby Speedsoda - Reprappers
Re: Experimental Power Supplys - 13 years ago
How cheap are these? I mean, a 12 volt power supply from ebay is ridiculously cheap. I see no need to spend hours/days of time in finding another concept to save in on a part you can get for 5 dollars...by Speedsoda - Controllers
Re: PLA printing issue 
- 13 years ago
You're not being very specific on what the problem actually is... If I understand correctly: Your extruder motor is running, but no plastic is flowing? Is the motor just stripping filament?by Speedsoda - Printing
Re: Tried uploading Marlin to gen 6 electronics, get timeout... - 13 years ago
Ok, so. I bought an ATMega programmer just for this. I want to put marlin on my electroncis. So, how do I do this now?by Speedsoda - Firmware - mainstream and related support
How to increase control over extrudate flow? - 13 years ago
I'm having some problems controlling the flow of plastic. This obviously causes some stringing etc which I don't like. The problem is simple enough; just because the extruder motor stops feeding, that doesn't stop the plastic from flowing from the nozzle. It will keep flowing for a few seconds, slowly decreasing the flow rate. This will cause the following problems: Stringing obviously. This caby Speedsoda - Printing
Re: Printer slows down around tight bends, with blobbing as a result... - 13 years ago
It's not the same problem. His problem is related to a slow Z axis movement, causing plastic to ooze out when he changes layers...by Speedsoda - Printing
Tried uploading Marlin to gen 6 electronics, get timeout... - 13 years ago
Hi, I heard the Marlin is a major improvement over other gen 6 firmwares, so I thought I would give it a go, since I've had a bunch of problems related to printing arcs etc which is supposedly fixed in Marlin. But when I try to upload, nothing really happens for a long time. Eventually timeout messages start to appear in the Arduino window. I'm kinda lost here. Is this a common error with a comby Speedsoda - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Printer slows down around tight bends, with blobbing as a result... - 13 years ago
I see... Though I don't believe most of this matters much... 3 mm PLA Varying temperatures, haven't noticed any difference even between 190 and 240 to be honest. I have a 3dstuffmaker Creator, it's called. Rather unusual model I have come to understand, because of this I can't really say what hotend or firmware it is. I'm using slic3r, but repsnapper has shown the exact same issues so I don'by Speedsoda - Printing
Printer slows down around tight bends, with blobbing as a result... - 13 years ago
Hi I've got some issues with my printer... The single largest contributor to making my prints look like crap at the moment is that the printer slows down a lot when encountering tight circular/rounded turns. I would assume this is due to the fact that getting around such a turn requires a lot of instructions, if you can only instruct the machine to move in straight lines. Maybe the instructionsby Speedsoda - Printing
Re: Slic3r freaks out completely after a few layers - 13 years ago
Huh... So I looked at the gcode... This is what I found: G1 Z1.850 F3000.000 ; move to next layer (4) G1 X67.866 Y103.363 ; move to first perimeter point G1 F9000.000 E30.00000 ; compensate retraction G1 X32.134 Y103.363 F1500.000 E74.42719 ; perimeter G1 X32.134 Y46.637 E144.95897 ; perimeter G1 X67.866 Y46.637 E189.38616 ; perimeter G1 X67.866 Y103.303 E259.84335 ; perimeter G1 X68.286 Y103.7by Speedsoda - Slic3r
Slic3r freaks out completely after a few layers - 13 years ago
I have printed a few prints with Slic3r successfully, but my latest prints have been plagued by a weird problem. One object was downloaded from thingiverse and one I made myself. The print started out great, I was printing slightly slow, at 30-40 mm/s. The first 4-5 layers went great, and then the printer just completely freaked out, printing at what looked like 150 mm/s or something, making rouby Speedsoda - Slic3r