OK, I have the machine working and have done a few test cuts. I have found that the cuts are mirrored to the CAD file and have no idea on how to change that on the machine. I can mirror the CAD file, but that is not the right way to do things.by regpye - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Solved the problem, I found the error. (My error) I re-flashed the board with GRBL and after taking the wiring apart and testing one motor at a time with UGS I found that I had mixed up the direction wires for the motors. I had used white wire for the direction on all motors and coloured wires for the step wires (blue, green, yellow) It was easy to get the white wires mixed and I found the problby regpye - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I have taken some screen shots of the settings of the limits,. Inputs 2 shows what happens if I invert the polarity, the software is aware of a problem and marks the buttons in red. The homing screen shot shows that I have assigned nothing.by regpye - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Yes I have tried sending M119, but it seems that is not a command that EstlCAM knows. I get no response when I enter that. At the bottom of the screen there is a band that appears if anything is wrong and nothing is appearing. This band is in orange colour and has text displaying any error found at anytime, like comm port not found, etc. I have attached the list of commands available.by regpye - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Thanks Viktor, I have no homing switches and non are assigned in the firmware either. Homing is not activated. The firmware controller doesn't show any limits being activated either. I have reversed the direction within the firmware and the motors go the other way as expected, but still only move in one direction. The firmware is EstlCAM so maybe not many know about this (it looks really great)by regpye - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I have just built a small CNC milling machine and am having a strange problem. I am using a genuine Arduino Uno that is driving 3x TB6560 stepper drivers that are controlling NEMA 17 steppers. The firmware is EstlCAM and I have it setup without any limit switches or probe at this stage, I just wanted to get the motors driving correctly and the stepping sorted. The distances are all correct and thby regpye - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I have a EleksMakerĀ® ManaSE 2 controller board on a home built laser engraver. The board has a Arduino nano and has been programmed with GRBL 1.1f The board has only drivers for the motors and a laser module connection. It is working fine, but I wanted to add a couple of extra controls for pause and resume, but the board doesn't have any connections for those. It also doesn't have and limit switby regpye - Laser Cutter Working Group
Big Tree were of very little help and they still have not fixed the faulty photo that is on their website and is also used in many sales sites. The motor drivers are upside down and that will cause them to blow and also destroy the board. I managed to find a few more photos showing the connections, but still not a three wire connection like the two TTL boards I have.by regpye - Laser Cutter Working Group
Some news Viktor, Although not fully resolved I seem to be getting somewhere. The attached file shows that the servo has PWM and I connected a multimeter between the signal line and ground and then ran a file (just using software, no hardware connected yet) and the reading was zero before the engraving started and went up to just under 5 volts during the engraving stage. I am running GRBL 1.1f aby regpye - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks Viktor, I have sent a request for information to them. A little worrying though, the photo of the board on their website shows the motor drivers inserted upside down. Also the printed information is lacking as well. See if I get a reply back from them.by regpye - Laser Cutter Working Group
I have bought another CNC shield recently, goes by the CNC Shield ver 2.7 name. The board has www.lubandiy.com printed on one corner. There are 8 optical isolators on the board for the limit switches and a socket for a Nano. Also there is a heavy duty hexfet near the laser connections. I am not able to find out much about this board, even though I have asked the seller and even a few other sellerby regpye - Laser Cutter Working Group
I had similar problems and changed my setup to use long button tactile switches. You need to reverse the logic in the firmware. The tactile worked so good, I now use them for the Z probe too.Very accurate, cheap and small size.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Tried out with 16 point probing and all is well. Guess the bed is a long way out to start with, at least 2mm from the readings shown on the screen while probing. Prints nicely now. One thing I found that needs looking at in the firmware is the LCD controller menu is not all working as it should. When selecting the nozzle temp to increase or decrease it, it jumps to "flow" and then does nothing.by regpye - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks for the suggestion Roxy. Yes I have it going now with the servo. I changed to a different RAMPS board selection a few times until I found the one that works. Still having some issues with the leveling though. It all works fine except that at the far front and the far back the bed is too low. The bed is pretty flat using a straight edge to test. I am now using 16 probe positions to see if tby regpye - Firmware - Marlin
I am also having the same problem. Tried all the above fixes, but alas no servo working yet. Works fine with an earlier version of Marlin, but I only have 3 point probing with the early version. Managed to do some prints by manually moving the servo down and up again, adding a slow Z lift so I could move the probe up before starting the print. Marlin doesn't seem to have a pause command that Iby regpye - Firmware - Marlin
It is worth a try, I can't see why it wouldn't work. Costs almost nothing and easy to do.by regpye - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Why don't you use a heated bed with PLA and forget about the blue tape (expensive and not very good) Use sugar with water. Heat it up in the microwave so that it becomes like thin honey and spread a little over the glass plate or bed with a bit of spit. The spit stops the sugar from beading. Heat the bed to 60C and print. Let the bed cool down or remove the glass and add another one to keep printby regpye - Australia, Melbourne RUG
Quoteduranza Are the files for this mod posted anywhere? Thanks, Jonathan The servo arm file for the tactile switch is hereby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Quoteregpye Quotemadmike8 Ideas for adjustable dual hotend... Link1 Link2 Should be able to use the Genie MK1 hotends with this setup too. Or I could just try this That's a pretty good idea for adjusting the height on each hotend, I like that.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemadmike8 Ideas for adjustable dual hotend... Link1 Link2 Should be able to use the Genie MK1 hotends with this setup too.by regpye - Smart_Rap
I have been working on one as well. Here is a web page that explains what I have done so far. web pageby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteldanut I haven't done but I can do it so we can have a better picture. My tests involved printing a lot and see if I need to recalibrate the Z offset after few prints as it happened before. I didn't have to recalibrate the Z offset at all. Whats the best way to do repeatability tests? Just do few times G29 and see the values from console? From my experience, the micro switches need to be recby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteprpickett Adding a heated bed to the printer currently. Also working on modifying the carriages for Reg's bushings. I seem to remember reading that they worked better if you left them connected so I need to move the mounts closer. May also try printing 10mm bushings for the Z axis since I have 10mm rod. That would allow me to use the current z rods for the x-axis and increase my build area.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Quotewillera Hi all! I have just ordered all my bits for this printer and can't wait till they all come! Just a quick question, how did you guys know how many bolts and screws etc to use for this build? Did yo work it out or is there a file somewhere? And I ordered some parts from the smartfriendz website using the parts included in a pack as a BOM for the build. I've orderedby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz it's very nice job idanut.. the level system..and the rest congrats. I should try this system. i still have a lot of servos, so its nice to use them Yes I agree,a very nice job. I have gone back to servos too, but I am using long reach tactile switches instead of the micro switch. ' The tactile is much smaller, more accurate and has a very much smaller probe tip that is easby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteWibbles Hi Dan I only mentioned it as my guess was that anyone who was used to RC kit would do what I was about to do and go buy a servo extension lead to run down to the box and just plug it in. Ok, I now have this whole thing up and running, just had to make a few adjustments to the print speed (50-60), filament feed and speed, and the nozzle temp (190). I printed one of the parts fromby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb Hi Reg: How is the 1mm space between the heater block and the nozzle used to seal the nozzle? I removed the nozzle to clean off some of the dried PLA it had on the side and when I hand tighten it back on, I can screw it all the way up to the heater block. Am I supposed to or just leave it 1 full turn away? Doesn't that leave a gap inside the nozzle between the screw tip and the nby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteregpye Quotercjoseb Hi Reg. Glad to hear you are nice and dry :-) I would like to mount a 40mm fan in front of finned heat sink and groove nut. At 210c the upper portion of the hot end is getting heat from below, I assume, and the heat is wapring the PLA mount. I am working on getting an ABS mount printed. Can you recommend any fan mounts that would fit the Genie MK2? I have a dremel sby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb Hi Reg. Glad to hear you are nice and dry :-) I would like to mount a 40mm fan in front of finned heat sink and groove nut. At 210c the upper portion of the hot end is getting heat from below, I assume, and the heat is wapring the PLA mount. I am working on getting an ABS mount printed. Can you recommend any fan mounts that would fit the Genie MK2? I have a dremel so if i needby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb Thanks for the info, Reg. It's really, really appreciated. I will check the temp while the fan is running during a print job. Right now, it's set to auto so it comes on after the first layer. I do have Kapton tape on it. By the way, what do you have your PLA feed rate per minute set at? I hope all is well in Australia. I heard about the flooding in Queensland. Jose No problemby regpye - Smart_Rap