I ran the PID autotune and it returned a new set of values. Below is what I got when I tried to set the new values. >>> M301 P18.11 I1.86 D44.13t SENDING:M301 P18.11 I1.86 D44.13 echo: p:18.11 i:1.86 d:44.13 >>> M500 SENDING:M500 Error:EEPROM disabled Error:EEPROM disabled Setting hotend temperature to 245.000000 degrees Celsius. Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_by charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
The following was returned by the PID autotune procedure. >>> m303 s245 SENDING:M303 S245 PID Autotune start bias: 205 d: 49 min: 237.19 max: 245.42 bias: 219 d: 35 min: 237.58 max: 245.10 bias: 224 d: 30 min: 237.19 max: 245.00 Ku: 9.78 Tu: 11.96 Classic PID Kp: 5.87 Ki: 0.98 Kd: 8.77 bias: 228 d: 26 min: 237.73 max: 247.19 Ku: 7.00 Tu: 11.80 Classic PID Kp: 4.20 Ki: 0.71 Kdby charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust 1) the thermistor has detached from the hot end. even a tiny air gap will cause big issues 2) loss of power, check the hotend is attached to your controller properly. (no lose screw terminals) 3) a cooling fan blowing on the hot end when it shouldn't, not allowing it to get to temperature. (Fans should be on heatsinks or printed parts, not the not end) 4) after checking all the aboveby charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
Maybe I was not clear (as usual).... Please look at status window in attached screen shot. I don't know what the M117 gcode is about, but looking up the codes tells me that it has something to do with an LCD. I don't have an LCD on the printer. Also, I getting the error at the bottom a lot. I think that means that I need to run the PID routine, correct?by charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
Spectrum upgraded my internet service this morning and I had to go through and change all my ip settings. Now I am having a problem starting a print. The printer gets up to temperature, but it never starts printing. Just sits there at temp. I do not have an LCD on this printer, but the status window repeats this message every 10 seconds or so..... The progress should be updated Now: M117 O.3by charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
Yup! That did it. Thanks. I never use soft limits so I never seem to think of that.by charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
I just rebuilt a Cartesian printer updating the z axis hardware and upgrading the hot end and extruder. All seems to be working ok, but when I try to jog Z, I want to bring the head down until it's touching the bed (don't have a probe setup yet so I need to do this manually). I have found that I can only move it down to about 10 mm above the bed with the jog buttons. I can't figure out why itby charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteMMcLure Do you have the PIDTEMPBED configuration variable enabled in your configuration? If you don't, the bed will be configured to use bang-bang control instead of PID, so PID tuning doesn't make any sense. YEP. That was my problem. Uncommitted it and the Autotune ran fine. Thank you very muchby charlieRC - General
Ahhhhhh..... ok. That gives me something to check. My guess is you hit it on the nose. Didn’t know about PIDBEDTEMP.. Thank you.by charlieRC - General
I tried to setup baby stepping on Marlin 1.1x and getting an error SENDING:M290 Z0.05 echo:Unknown command: "M290 Z0.05" SENDING:M290 Z-0.05 echo:Unknown command: "M290 Z-0.05" ' Has marlin dropped support for baby stepping or is there something more I should be doing.by charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin
oK, I am totally lost. What can I do to correct this (in specific terms please)?by charlieRC - General
I have the thermistor defined for the heated bed. I am not sure what you mean “heated bed configured” the printer prints fine accept for an occasional “run away” error. Is there something else that needs to be “configured”?by charlieRC - General
I am running a custom built printer with a mini-rambo board and Marlin firmware. I sent M303 E-1 S80 and I am getting "Autotune failed: bad extruder number" I came up with this line after watching a few Y/t vids. According to what I've seen E-1 should represent the bed heater. Is there something I am doing wrong?by charlieRC - General
yes I am streaming over USB. I never had a need for a SD slot on so I never built one in. You may be right though about the USB being the issue. I may take a look at what it would take to have a SD reader on the Mini Rambo. Not sure that is even possible.by charlieRC - Printing
I have a Cartesian printer using a mini rambo and an e3d hotend and marlin firmware with PLA. i just rebuilt the Z axis and at the same time, went to a e3d hotend and it seems to be working fine, but I have a intermittent problem now. I am printing a kidney shaped container as a test print. For the most part, it prints ok, but as its doing the concentric moves for the bottom layer;, every t0by charlieRC - Printing
Update: I broke down and bought the printBite sheet for my coreXY (even though the shipping was as much as the product and took nearly a month to get it), and so far, I am very happy with it. Still tweaking my settings, but I've had hardly any adhesion issues. The product was very easy to install and best of all....no hair spray required. We"ll see what I think a month or two down the road, bby charlieRC - Printing
I’ve had some luck with hairspray on glass lately. Watching some YouTube videos, I realize I have not been applying the spray correctly. That was ok with PLA, but petG requires a better process. So far, so good.by charlieRC - Printing
resolved: There was a wiring issue. Corrected that and all is well.by charlieRC - General
Spoke to soon. I was trying to re-calibrate the probe using . As I got to the step to run G30 S-1 and ran it, the probe started flashing just like the one I just replaced and is now unresponsive. I am a total loss to know what to look at next. I did check the voltages again and they seem to be right where they should be. Addendum: came back from dinner and powered up the printer. It was noby charlieRC - General
I replaced the BLTouch with another and that solved the immediate issue, but I would still like to figure out what caused the other one to go bad. I only used it for a little over three months. That seems like an awfully short life span unless there is something that I did wrong. Anyone else have this sort of issue?by charlieRC - General
I put a multimeter between the 5v and ground (red and brown) at the bltouch end of the extension cable and I got 5.01v consistently. I even tried moving through the 3 axis and it did not fluctuate. I checked the black and white wires on the two wire connection and got a consistent 3.28v. I also checked continuity between the 3 wire extension cable and the BLT on the soldered side of the connecby charlieRC - General
QuoteVDX ... check the +5V power -- could be, the 5V-regulator is blown for overpowering or misplaced endstops (if wrong around, they will short +5V to GND) ... I can’t quit understand your suggestion.. I had printed about five or six prints this morning before this happened. I can still home X and Y fine. I have a Z.end stop that works as a fail safe if the BLTouch does not stop the bed andby charlieRC - General
I was doing some test prints using petG this morning and everything was fine. In preparing for the next print, I tried to home everything and the BLTouch just started flashing. I checked the wiring and all was good. I cycled the power a few times with no luck. It would start flashing as soon as the power was restored. I physically pulled the prob down and when I powered up, it would retract anby charlieRC - General
I just tried an experiment that worked. This is probably old news to you all. I had an unused sheet of PEI and wondered what would happen if I just clipped it onto yhe glass plate without using adhesive. After clipping it on, I noticed that it didn’t lay completely flat in the center (maybe a 0.5mm bulge in the center. I figured that the BLtouch bed leveling would accommodate that. It didby charlieRC - Printing
So, if you use Polycarbonate, then you can only print on a cold bed, correct? I have heard conflicting reports that printing with a cold bed is ok, but that there is some advantage to a warmer bed. Of course, I don't know enough to tell fact from fiction.by charlieRC - Printing
Hmmmmmm... Checked out printBite and it seems that with shipping to the US, it’s about twice the cost of a 100mm roll of kapton tape. I guess I will try that first and if not happy with my results, try the printBite. When dealing with two unknowns (to me), I guess it makes sense to gamble on the least expensive. Plus, shipping to the US from the U.K. takes a lot longer. @Ohmarinus, your prinby charlieRC - Printing
Thanks. I never heard about printBite, but I will check it out. Do you use gloss or matt printBite? Do you have to let the bed cool down to remove prints?by charlieRC - Printing
I am a long time ABS printer and a PLA convert for some time now. Now I want to try petG as I am hearing that it has the best of PLA and ABS. Unfortunatly, I am also hearing horror stories about damage to glass beds. I tried a few bed configurations, but always come back to a quarter inch aluminum heat spreader with a quarter inch glass plate. (inertia is not a problem as my machine is coreXby charlieRC - Printing
One of my printers uses a mini rambo controller and I would like to continue to use it. I have a berd airpump that I would like to use with it, but am a bit concerned about plugging it into the fan output. Seems like it might have a pretty high power draw. Does anyone know what the power output for the fan connectors on the mini rambo can handle?by charlieRC - Controllers
Actually, I fonnd the problem in the configuration file. I had somehow commented out the line that I needed in the endstop inversion settings. Thanks.by charlieRC - Firmware - Marlin