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Re: What's with all these solid layers? - 12 years ago

QuoteSublime Its a setting called infill in direction of bridge. If you un-check it the extra solid layers will go away. But SF will still skip the extra perimeters on those layers. Ah, didn't realise there was a setting for that. I'll give it a go when I get home. Quoteahmetcemturan In SFACT there is the option to add extra perimeters for bridge Layers. Which tab does this come under? Is it i

What's with all these solid layers? - 12 years ago

I've printed an Ocarina from a stl from Thingiverse and it came out with a pattern across the Z axis. Upon inspection I cound the darker lines are caused by solid slices in the gcode. I can't figure out why this is happening, I've played around with the Surrounding Angle in the Skeinforge Fill tab (it maxes out at 80) and it hasn't made a difference. Can anyone point me the right direction? Be

Re: Advise on getting a better print. - 12 years ago

Definately a z home issue. You need to increase your value in the firmware code. Remember increase the z home value brings the hot end further down as the value is counted from the z stop switch at the top.

Re: Adding a Base Under the Mendel90 - 12 years ago

Taking that 3 foot idea, do you think the dampners below would work in a similar fashion? I'm trying to reduce noise from the machine.

Re: Trouble with my new Mendel90 - 12 years ago

Try a bit of hairspray on the print bed. I always use it with my PLA prints and it helps it stick well. Make sure to cover the rods when applying it though.

Re: Borderlands Zer0 Cosplay Helmet - 12 years ago

Awesome! Love to see a picture of it on.

Re: Uh-oh! - 12 years ago

How olds your Mendel90? My hot end his held in place on the underside by bolts. I remember hearing the wades block was redesigned so the hot end could still be removed when this happens, you might have the old design.

Re: Uh-oh! - 12 years ago

I had similar problems with white PLA, I'm almost certain it was due to the spool not feeding right. The filament stopped feeding and the heat started spreading up and swelled it where the hot end meets the wade block. If I were you I'd cut the filament above the wave block. Take out the three bolts holding the hot end in and carefully remove the hot end, taking into mind the wiring for the resi

Re: Editing GCode?? - 12 years ago

I use Notepad++ You can setup your own styles so the commands can be coloured based on content.

Re: Filaments gets stuck! - 12 years ago

Is the PTFE tubing within the hot end damaged? I did this freeing up a blockage and I couldn't extrude correctly after.

Re: Ideas to make printed parts -- Cosmetically Appealing -- - 12 years ago

Re: First Print with my new Mendel90 & 1 Question - 12 years ago

This will settle down I believe, Nophead's said the gears can take a few prints to "bed in" so to speak. Keep printing and it should get better. I remember my first few Androids had a variation in quality despite no changes to the setup. This eventually went away and I got consistent prints. Also don't forget to lubricate your gears to make them last longer, but make sure you use the correct lubr

Re: First Print with my new Mendel90 & 1 Question - 12 years ago

I suspect it could be the soldering on Nopheads X carriage PCB, I'd count it as one of the tougher parts of the setup. When you get your multimeter back check the resistance from the terminal on the PCB to the Melzi.

Re: help me figuring out what to change - 13 years ago

Have you measured and adjusted the E steps?

Re: Mendel90 Flightcase Ideas - 13 years ago

I spent a little more time on it tonight. I decided to resize the case so it's 50cm in X and Y so it'll be more cost effective on extrusions as they come in 1 or 2m lengths. I also added corner brackets which help join the edge extrusions.

Re: Mendel90 Flightcase Ideas - 13 years ago

GizmoB73, had all your suggestions already on my list of things to do. QuackingPlums, I was wondering about that. It's a bit of an unknown as to what temperature the case would reach when closed so it'll probably be a good idea to section off the back right corner and include a vent of some kind to that section.

Mendel90 Flightcase Ideas - 13 years ago

Taking inspiration from a Prusa Flightcase on Thingiverse (thing:14514) I've started designing a flightcase for my Mendel90. The reason behind wanting the case is two fold, 1 - I wanted an enclosure to print ABS to maintain temperature and vent fumes. 2 - I wanted a way of storing and transporting the printer without having to worry about it as much. So I found a bunch of Sketchup models on the

Re: Mendel 90 Extruder (feed) motor problem (youtube link) - 13 years ago

That does look like a wiring issue. Simple way to check if you have a LED handy is to clip it to the the end of each pair of the motor separately. Then spin the motor by hand and see if the LED lights up. I'd guess that it's a problem on the extruder PCB soldering end.

Re: Printer Storage and Transport - 13 years ago

Use plywood and then you could reuse the panels to make a proper flight case once you move. I've been looking into it myself and the aluminium extrusions, latches etc aren't that bad a price. Doubt it'll cost under £40 though.

Re: Noob Question - Filament Size - 13 years ago

The Mendel90 kit uses 3mm filament, not 1.75mm.

Re: quality issues - 13 years ago

You running loop - perimeter - infill? Have you recalculated your E Steps for this filament? As Nophead said you could be extruding too much.

Re: Filament tube routing - 13 years ago

I used to have similar problems so I switched to the spool holder below. Lot less friction with the spool spinning on a metal rod Just print a dust filter to run in line, no tubing.

Re: Weird warping on new layers - 13 years ago

I don't have the fan currently attached. I've found the fan causes some layers to not bond well once turned on. What layer would you say is the best to start it up?

Weird warping on new layers - 13 years ago

I was trying to print the Gyro cube from Thingiverse over the weekend (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19304) and ran into a strange problem. I noticed the edge of the outside ring was considerably taller than the inner rings, like it's curling upwards. You can see this on the image below on the outside ring at the top of the image. I suspect I might be printing too hot. I'm print Orange JET

Re: Z Screw wobble - 13 years ago

I had a similar problem, then I wrapped some electrical tape around the ends of the threaded rods to widen them. Fit much better now with next to no wobbling.

Re: Hot end melted into carrier - 13 years ago

Of course, totally forgot you have a Github respository setup.

Re: Any tips on replacing j head hot end PTFE liner? - 13 years ago

I decided to remove the nozzle to give it a bit more of a clean. So I removed the nozzle and cleaned the threads, applied some new PTFE tape screwed it back it, heated it up and then tightened it. Inserted the new PTFE liner, then the washer and hollow screw.

Re: Hot end melted into carrier - 13 years ago

I've been looking for the stl of the new wade block, have you uploaded it anywhere Nophead?

Re: Any tips on replacing j head hot end PTFE liner? - 13 years ago

Can I pull it out from the top or does it only come out of the bottom after removing the head?

Any tips on replacing j head hot end PTFE liner? - 13 years ago

Last night I was removing a blockage on my hot end and unfortunately damaged the PTFE liner. So this needs replacing, does anyone have any tips for this? I'm using the stock j head that came with Nopheads Mendel90 kit, which is a MK5B. I've read somewhere that some PTFE tubing is tapered and therefore will need to be inserted correctly. Below are the steps I plan to do Heat up nozzle and rever