I'm printing NinjaFlex with a really nice attachment any ideas on feed rate and print speed?by AmazingSpanoMan - General
Hi there. I fixed this issue by changing the amount the z axis lift when it does the bounce. The default is 5 for the X and Y axis but only 3 for the Z. This caused the bounce to not deactivate the end stop which prevented the Z from coming back down. Chang the 3 to 4 or five and it will move up enough to deactivate the end stop. This will allow it to come back down after bouncing. The setting isby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Quotejb92563 I am also having that same problem with my ord bot Hadron. it uses threaded rods on the Z so I know there is no slipping. Im also using the latest slic3r version. I'll check the gcode as well to see if it is commanding the z to come back down far enough at the perimeter printing. See my post above. Check your firmware for the Z-Axis recheck bounce distance. The endstop may justby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Prints are going pretty good now. New Question.Anyone know how to connect a fan so that it can be controlled? I have the Fan splitter from Gadgets3D that supposedly provides two PWM connections but I can't figure out where the PWM input is on the Ramps 1.4. Any ideas?by AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Oh My! That fixed it! I was just able to do a 1mm layer hight print no problem and no on the fly adjusting by me. AWESOME! I'll post pics when I get the chance. Happy Holidays Everyone!by AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Nevermind I think I fixed it. In Marlin under Configuration_ADV.h there is code for the amount the axis moves away from the endstop before it rechecks. The x and y are set at 5mm and the Z is set at 1mm by default. It looks like the Z axis moving 1mm wasn't enough to deactivate the endstop and it thought it was homed even though it moved up 1mm. I changed this value to 3mm. Now it moves down, hby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
OK I may have found why there is an issue with the Z being too far away. I think it has to do with the homing. When it homes it comes down hits the endstop and bounces back up about 1mm. This leaves the nozzle farther away from the bed than when I leveled it. The LCD screen says Z is at 0.00 so it thinks it is where it is supposed to be. This gap because it "bounces" off the endstop when hominby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
The lift nozzle code is in there by default in Slic3r. Supposedly so it can heat the hotend away from the bed. It does move back down (that can be seen in the Z location on my LCD) it just doesn't move enough. I'm looking into the calibration numbers and all that later on tonight. I'll repost my findings.by AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Hmm I know I don't have an offset in Slic3r set up. I'm going to double check the other things and report back. Other than the Z issue I'm starting to get really good results, even the hollow cube, bridge test came out OK. Thanks!by AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Well tonight I decided to not try and go for the big bang and went with a 3mm layer hight as well as some changes to the speed and such as discussed earlier. I am getting much better results now. Not 100% yet but getting there. I am still having issues with homing on the z-axis: 1. ultra-level the entire bed 2. double/triple checked the endstop location 3. If I home via p-face I get an almosby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Great! I'll try that and report back. Thanksby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
I found the widths settings under advanced...by AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Ok I see. I was under the assumption the nozzle diameter was the nozzle hole size. So going by your starting calculations if I have a .4 mm nozzle and todo 20% bigger to start, I should set the nozzle diameter to .48 and tweak from there? Extrusion rate is how fast the filament comes out? It's set at 1 right now.by AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
I don't see anywhere I can change that in slic3r. Do I change the width in the firmware?by AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Here is the starting GCode from the cube I just sliced. This may help. ; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC1 on 2013-12-20 at 22:35:52 ; layer_height = 0.2 ; perimeters = 2 ; top_solid_layers = 4 ; bottom_solid_layers = 4 ; fill_density = 0.15 ; perimeter_speed = 30 ; infill_speed = 60 ; travel_speed = 130 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.4 ; filament_diameter = 1.75 ; extrusion_multiplier = 1 ; perimeters exby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
UPDATE: OK I came home after printing some upgrade parts at work, adjusted the acceleration and installed the new pieces. I installed a y-axis tensioner that is screwed right into the mdf. I got the y-axis belt nice and tight and tried a test and, at first it seemed to be doing OK then the skipping happened again. I decided to fiddle with the tensioner while it was printing and found that I mayby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Hello Everyone! I just finished grad school and finally have time to get back to my Prusa i2 build. I have everything built and wired up and have been able to successfully print a 40mm test cube after calibration! I am now having some fine tuning issues I'm hoping to get help with. 1. When starting a print, the bed heats up and then all the axis home in this order x --> y --> z. The x andby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
Hi guys! I've been involved with 3d printing for some time now but never got into the DIY open source projects. I finally took the plunge and sourced/printed the pieces to build my first prusa Mendel i2. I have everything together, everything slides smooth and is measured out. I got my 30A power supply yesterday and spent a couple hours finally running wires and connecting up the ramps1.4. Pluby AmazingSpanoMan - Reprappers
vegasloki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you look at the side of the extruder by the hot > end mount you'll see 2 - 3 mm holes just under the > main gear. They might be covered in printing > flash. Those can be used to mount the extruder by > inserting 40 mm bolts and trimming the PEEK on the > hot end. I would say the plate method listedby AmazingSpanoMan - General Mendel Topics
You don't have any problems with melting?by AmazingSpanoMan - General Mendel Topics
I'm going to be doing the same thing once I get to that point in the build. I also read the D9 can be used. Here is my question: Is it possible to connect more than on fan to a ramps 1.4 board? I'm planning on running PLA for the most part and want to keept the feeder tube cool so I want to put a fan there but I also want to put a fan on the other side with a custom air nozzle to cool the PLA aby AmazingSpanoMan - General Mendel Topics
I haven't used that PLA but I'm having great success with SainSmart 1.75 PLA on Amazon. It is a couple dollars more than this on Ebay but it works and looks wonderful. My only suggestion if you get it is that it has a melting temp in the lower range so don't pump the temp to 240 right away. I have it at around 225 and I could prob go a little less but it seems to give me good grip on the plate anby AmazingSpanoMan - General Mendel Topics
Have you had any experience with the extruders that have a hot-end mount built in? I'm looking at: It has a J-head mount built in. Supposedly you can put the nozzle in the hole on the bottom and use two M3s to slide in the groove and hold it in place. My concern is whether or not the hot-end gets hot that far up. and if it does, I wonder if it will melt the plastic.by AmazingSpanoMan - General Mendel Topics
HI! After receiving a Replicator 2 at work I couldn't help but feel that I missed out on the building part of making your own printer. At this point I have all the plastic parts printed, all the hardware should be here soon, picked up a J-head MKV and working on the electronics. While going through the manual and watching videos on YouTube, One thing pops up that is still a bit confusing to me. Sby AmazingSpanoMan - General Mendel Topics