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Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 10 years ago

not sure what you're using for endstops, but the standard 3DRs' hall sensors are adjusted via a pot on the board I think ? (I've not used them) , a few of us are using fixed hall sensors so you have to adjust via firmware (would be the same for mech and opto endstops, unless they're mounted on the smooth rods) to adjust in marlin you can use the M666 command , changes are then stored in eprom
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: 3DR "Simple" Delta Printer - 11 years ago

looking good John How about using slots instead of holes, that way bed clips are adjustable for what ever diameter bed people can get hold of locally ? One side effect of designing for the Printrbot Simple, is that it makes it easier to print on the 3DR, making it a bit more reprap (I think dia of motor mount is about 150mm, making it a bit tight on 170mm dia bed, not sure mind haven't tried i
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 11 years ago

Yep,was going to ask why you wanted to use expensive mech endstops Have done the same as pokey, seems to be working fine. Just connect VCC,GND and Signal from the hall sensor directly to the same pins on your controller board, and off you go. good news on getting the prob sorted Zacbot
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: 3DR "Simple" Delta Printer - 11 years ago

we are watching John, it's probably that most people are still preoccupied building or calibrating their 3DR's, especially those, who like you didn't stick to the standard design. people will probably chime in as your build progresses a bit more
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 11 years ago

Hade, are you using a recent marlin, with the M666 command ? (I think it was implemented 2-3 weeks ago) M666 allows you to set an offset after homing, saves messing with mechanical adjustments on endstops (or messing about adjusting hall sensors). My hall sensors aren't adjustable, so it came in really usefull. You can only add -ve adjustment i.e. lower each tower carriage after homing. I was
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: faberdashery filament - 11 years ago

stefanjess91 Depends on who your buying from on amazon. waitaki that sounds like 3mm filament, 1.75 should be~350 metres?
by Masnachu - General

Re: Cheapest filament in the UK so far? - 11 years ago

Reprapper was the assumption I was making judging from the product line 3dFilaprint are carrying. The thing with reprapper IMO, is/was consistency, at certain times you read that it's printing fine, at other times people are reporting nothing but problems with it. Thanks for the feedback jay, although with that warping your getting still not sure I'll take a punt on it, will see,
by Masnachu - General

Re: Cheapest filament in the UK so far? - 11 years ago

I was looking at that site for thier Taulman nylon, prices look pretty good, although must admit I'm really wary of cheap PLA after my first lot, so sort of ignored it. (anyway no black or white 1.75 PLA there ?) What's the dimensional consistency like on the PLA, anyone got any numbers. ? Anyone tried printing on a cold bed , sticking ok with no warp/lifting ?
by Masnachu - General

Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 11 years ago

what aluminium profile are you using ? , the printed parts are designed for Bosch-Rexroth (BR) profile, using different profile would explain the size discrepancy
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: sloping back along Y-Axis ? - 11 years ago

Another thing to check if the other suggestions check out ok, is to make sure your z-axis is perpendicular to the print bed
by Masnachu - Printing

Re: Circular gaps, only occurs when printing small gears for extruders - 11 years ago

try playing with the solid infill setting in slicer, say 0.2mm to start with, see if it fills it. Also check you solid infill threshold area setting ( I think default is ~70) A quick way test different silcer settings before printing, is to slice and then load into Repetier, run through the layers in the model and see if the new settings are having the desired effect, can save a bit of plastic &
by Masnachu - Printing

Re: First layer / callibration issue (Prusa i3 - Slic3r) - 11 years ago

Yep I had that problem, trouble is I can't remember exactley what I did to sort it (have had to mess about with so many other things over the last week or so, memory gets hazy) I played with extrusion widths (Solid infill, Top solid infill). I also calibrated using the 5mm thin wall, and setting the extrusion multiplier for the layer height your printing at. See Slicer Calibration (note I didn
by Masnachu - Printing

Re: 3DR released - 11 years ago

Where did you guys in the UK get your profile from ? KJN is the cheapest I found for profile (3x550mm) & T-nuts, £9.35, but they have a flat shipping charge of £12 for 10kg's or less (or that's what I was told on phone) , I ain't paying that . Other on-line sites I've found are more expensive for the materials & also seem to be asking stupid amounts for postage. Haven't found anything
by Masnachu - General

Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 11 years ago

Thanks for the replies. pokey9000, yep at the time I was setting bed temp to 80C (approx 70C Glass surface temp) for the first layer, then knocking it down to 60'ish (~50C surface). It was the temp I first had success in getting the rubbish PLA to initially stick, so I stayed with it. I also experimented with about every temp possible with it, eventually I was using 1st layer bed/hotend temps
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 11 years ago

Hi thanks for the replies, I can get PLA to stick ok initially, it's stopping the stuff lifting mid print (even with brims) that’s the main problem. Haven't tried hairspray with PLA yet, I was using Wilko's "Extra firm hold", didn't work with ABS on its own, but I did find that I could get an extra days printing out of tired kapton using hairspray on it. Will do a test with PLA today. Than
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: RepRap 3DR Delta printer Released - 11 years ago

....... and how long it takes you to get your first reel of **#@# PLA to stick reliably to the bed, only top and bottom big pieces (PLA) left to do.
by Masnachu - Delta Machines

Re: New Prusa i3 - X and Y motors 'hammering'. Z axis working fine. Help? - 11 years ago

when I've had "shudder", it's been a wiring problem (broken header crimp pin in stepper socket, broken solder joint on my motor extension wire etc). maybe check your wiring, make sure it's all connected right ?
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: Changing Prusa i3 Z-axis threaded rods to 8mm in SCAD - 11 years ago

Assuming single plate.... open 'x-end.scad' , goto "module x_end_holes()", nut trap is the last part of this module............. // Nut trap translate(v=[0,-17,-1]) cylinder(h = 10, r=2.45); translate(v=[0,-17,3]) rotate([0,0,30]) cylinder(h = 5, r=7.5, $fn = 6); 1st bold is the small hole 2nd bold is the hex nut trap. (my numbers may be differnet because I've been potchin)
by Masnachu - General

Re: Problem with Z height when printing. - 11 years ago

can you post screen grabs of your pronterface and Repetier "printer settings -> printer" tab , would be easier than typing out the settings by hand Edit : No need to post them , not sure those settings are causing the issue.
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: RAMPS or Arduino bad? - 11 years ago

if the original E stepper driver and motor works ok in another driver location (x,y or z) then its looks like its a RAMPS or Arduino problem as you say. Knowing what to test though is beyond me. Ask in the elctronics forum, you probably have a better chance of someone who knows this stuff seeing it. Reprap RAMPS section
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: RAMPS or Arduino bad? - 11 years ago

Are the gears on the extruder a bit 'tight' or possibly damaged a little after that first print ? what happens to the extruder motor when it's running free without the gears attached ? (or have you tried that and it's still thumping ?)
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: Problem with Z height when printing. - 11 years ago

have you used calibration settings for your firmware settings ? using M5 (0.8mm pitch) for z-axis, firmware would be : #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,760*1.1) If you haven't seen Calibration guide might also be worth going through the stuff there.
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! - 11 years ago

1) I got my 624's from ebay (I live in the uk), they're a little bit more expensive than the 608's. 2) I've got no experience of printed pulleys so I cant really answer that. Sounds like it would work, but I've no idea if it would have an effect on your print quality. Best thing to do is search the forum for threads on printed pulleys see what they say. Edit: Although thinking a little more a
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: Is there a complete list of parts for Prusa i3 - 11 years ago

have a look at the 2nd reprap mag, Reprap Magazine there's a build guide in there for the single plate, there's a list of parts there, but I don't know if its complete or not. (I didnt build a single plate version). Read the article carefully though, make sure its for the same version you wish to build (mag article is for an Einstein version which uses 10mm threaded rod for the Y-axis (same as
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: Problem with Z height when printing. - 11 years ago

what size z-axis threaded rod are you using, metric or SAE ?
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: Here is my Prusa i3 ! - 11 years ago

like the yellow on black, looks good. what bearings are you getting ? the 624 doubled up are much better (I think so anyway) than 608's, belts stay nice and central, no need for those horrid bearing guides. I haven't tried the 623's. Although the belts do seem to wander a bit more if you twist the belt onto its smooth side for the idlers. What size long Y-axis rods did you use ? I used the y-a
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: gregs-wade-v3.scad attaching to X-carriage? - 11 years ago

just had a look through the single plate files , oops done those a bit different haven't they, not much in the way of configuration options.
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: gregs-wade-v3.scad attaching to X-carriage? - 11 years ago

ask the person who printed your parts what settings he used in "configuration.scad". for the box version at least the x-carriage default is 50mm, look for "carriage_l_base" in the configuration.scad.dist on github for the version your building, see what its set to by default. I would get the person the re-print the x-carriage properly for you, they're supposed to know what they're doing, well i
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics

Re: Blast - smooth rod is scoured Bright Mild Steel... advice - 11 years ago

He's been working on these for the last 3 years, must be smooth by now
by Masnachu - General

Re: Prusa Mendel I3 Y-Axis Rods - 11 years ago

Think M10 is the default now ,design is still undergoing improvement, hence the difference to the pictorial build guide you linked to. Why they needed the added strength of M10, I'm not sure. If you do go for M8, make sure you ask the person who prints your parts to alter the configuration.scad to M8, otherwise you get Y-Corners and frame base clamps for M10. Personally I'd stick with the M10.
by Masnachu - General Mendel Topics
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