Check out the Wohlers report Hopefully your university library will have access to a copy, as it's not cheap to buy.by 750magna - General
The Jubilee looks quite promising as well, thanks for linking that. Really happy they included a Solidworks model so I can work out some customizations and see if this ends up being the direction I go in for a new build.by 750magna - CoreXY Machines
What about a harmonic drive reduction instead? I've seen some injection molded versions including one that Igus makes, or there's the possibility of 3D printing one yourself, but either way, the lower cost options don't have to sacrifice precision the way a worm drive would. This 3D printed one's too large for a Z axis, but the overall idea could work. 3D Printed Harmonic Driveby 750magna - CoreXY Machines
I'm considering options for my next 3D printer, and wanted to get some additional opinions. Both the Voron and Railcore designs look great, and have lots of documentation, although I wish Voron would publish a complete CAD assembly. I've also recently came across the Troodon coreXY which appears to be similar to a Voron, but sold as a complete kit with machined metal instead of plastic parts. Theby 750magna - CoreXY Machines
I've recently tried to print some parts on our TAZ 6 printer, and the Z homing is not working properly in the starting script. I'm slicing with Simplify3D, but I've also tried Cura for Lulzbot and had the same issue. I'm using the standard startup script, and the issue is with G28 Z. The first G28 homes X and Y successfully, then it executes G1 X-19 Y258 F1000 ; move to safe homing position, andby 750magna - General
I've been doing some more research and it was mentioned that in some cases a heated bed is used. Obviously this would require a significant amount of power, but I'm curios if this would be worthwhile. From my experience with a heated bed on a much smaller printer, it helps a huge amount with adhesion and eliminates warping for the first several layers, but when printing large, tall parts there isby 750magna - General
I've been doing some research into large format printing myself. It sounds like you are planning on sticking with a filament fed machine, so you don't need to worry about the intricacies of a pellet fed extruder. That being said, you'll still run into issues that most with smaller printers don't have to concern themselves with. When you are printing such large parts, your build times will be signby 750magna - General
I know they like to use the carbon filled ABS, so that could easily add up to $750/hr @ $5 per pound. That's still a hell of a lot cheaper than carbon ABS filament which is anywhere from $50-$100 per spool, plus a machine like this would be making parts that would presumably cost a lot more if one had to machine them from a solid block. You're right that ooze wouldn't be such a big deal when thby 750magna - General
I can see these printers having a number of commercial applications. Looking at Thermwood, they bundle their printer with a 5 axis CNC router that can mill parts to final size. Being able to use cheap pellets as feed stock would be awesome too. I remember there were a couple projects where people tried to make pellet fed extruders for a rep rap, but I never saw anyone post a successful design. Iby 750magna - General
Does anyone here have experience with large format 3D printers like the Cincinatti BAAM at ORNL or the Thermwood LSAM? I've been working with smaller scale 3D printers for years, and have been keeping myself up to date with the desktop market, but I haven't come across many discussions about the super large scale 3D printers, especially anything getting into the more technical aspects of their woby 750magna - General
That's a good point about just manually editing the G Code. I'll give it a shot and see how it works out. The other trickier thing this program did was to make various oscillations along a given tool path to create various textures and patterns. I imagine it would start out making the path for a single walled shape and then apply a modifier to add offsets and overlaps in the tool paths. Is therby 750magna - General
I'm sure most of us have come back to find a failed print and a big pile of plastic spaghetti on at least one occasion. Usually that's the type of error we try and avoid, however sometimes there's a certain abstract artistic quality that would look really cool if it could be controlled just enough to form a desired shape, in effect creating a digitally made birds nest. I remember coming across aby 750magna - General
It's a different gearbox, however I'm assuming the square cover the bulldog is just for a cleaner look. It would be a leap of faith to hope that everything lines up perfect, and unfortunately they won't sell individual components separately unless its a bulk order. I'm also debating just buying the metal components off ali express and giving that a shot. While I'd prefer to spend a bit extra andby 750magna - General
So I've heard lots of good things about the bulldog extruders, and I'm pretty much settled on picking one up. That is unless anyone can suggest something better that I'm not aware of. From what I can tell the only difference between the lite and the XL is direct drive vs gear reduction. Since I already have a perfectly good Nema 17 motor with a planetary gear reduction, is there any point in buyiby 750magna - General
I'm printing in ABS. I'm going to try out printing with a fan blowing on the part, and hopefully things will balance out and I won't have issues with warping. Frans, that's interesting you mention re-tuning for the volcano hotend. I haven't used mine yet, just using the regular E3D with a .8mm nozzle. I'll keep that info in mind when I finally decide to set it up. Going down to 25mm/s sounds liby 750magna - General
Good point digital dentist. The closed loop system would definitely be overkill, and I'll definitely do some more research into upgrading the stepper drivers as an alternative. I have SIMO linear guides on my X and Y axis with a multi start lead screw and Nema 17 steppers. They can handle far greater speed than is practical for 3D printing, and are extremely accurate, although I wonder if its theby 750magna - General
Layer width is set to auto. Simplify 3D calculates that @ .96mm. I've played around with speeds and flow rates too. I'm typically running between 30- 60mm/second which I consider fairly slow and safe. Reducing the flow tends to leave gaps in the infill and poor layer adhesion, so I'm pretty sure I've got that dialed in good. I've attached some images that show a little more about what's going oby 750magna - General
I've been testing out printing with my E3D v6 and a .8mm nozzle. What I've noticed is a fairly substantial increase in blobs and slight layer misalignment once I start upping the layer thickness. Prints at .3mm layer height look quite good, going up to .4mm I start to see evidence of some small bubbles on the side of the print, but layer alignment still looks good. Once I jump to .6mm things starby 750magna - General
DC42, thanks for the run down on the smoothie and duet. I definitely am putting this on my list of upgrades now. A couple questions though, when it comes to connecting all the wires to the duet, am I just unplugging from the RAMPS board and plugging into the Duet, or do I need to figure out a new system and recompile the firmware so everything works again? Also, is it possible to hook up a cameraby 750magna - General
I've got a heated bed and I've upgraded to an E3D hotend. I'm considering getting a bulldog extruder or something else all metal that will be extremely reliable as well. I came across a company that makes a closed loop hybrid stepper that would be a very nice upgrade, although they're pricey enough that I'm going to need to wait for a big enough project to come along that I can justify them. Woby 750magna - General
While I'm quite comfortable making mechanical upgrades to my printer, one area that I feel in over my head on is when it comes to electrical. While I'm no expert, I feel like my printer (Trinity Labs Aluminatus) could use some electrical upgrades in order to make it truly fit in with more industrial class 3D printers. The problem is I'm not exactly sure where to start, or what the best resourcesby 750magna - General
The idea of a reliable paste extruder seems like it would be a great addition to my 3D printer, and one of the latest offerings from Structur3D looks quite clean and professional. Unfortunately, while they've put together a nice video, they don't want to go into much detail of how their extruder actually works. From what they've shown, they use a 60cc syringe and magic to create a plug and play pby 750magna - General
It's from Voxel Factory. I'm not sure who their supplier is, but maybe I just got unlucky and got a bad spool from them. Does anyone have any recomendations for a good filament supplier in Canada. Shipping and lead times from the US are a lot more expensive.by 750magna - General
I'm having problems with some black ABS that I bought, if I manually extrude a few cms, sometimes it comes out straight, but all of a sudden it will start to spin and extrude like a tightly wound rope. You can see a pic in this ablum I don't have these problems with the natural colored abs, so I assume it's the plastic, but I can't figure out why it would behave this way. I'm using a trinity lby 750magna - General