Quotecwaa Quotebriangilbert As somneone who has used both the Duet won my ongoing usage over the Smoothieboard.Maybe I will get to compare, but right now 5 days in I could easily stomp the damn thing! Please do not stomp it, I will give you 20 dollars for the board!by gadittri - General
It is a helix with .5mm deep grooves. It just seems like the filament windings should stay in place as one side feeds and the other end pulls when using a helix. I will play around with it using deeper grooves and maybe a helix the full length. This is the beauty of 3D printing is to print these parts for pennies.by gadittri - General
I know belts are best and probably wasting my time but its fun to experiment.by gadittri - General
I am currently using 20 tooth GT2 pulleys on my core XY and wanted to experiment with using specta 65lb fishing braid. My printed model looks great but the string is walking up or down on the pulley depending on direction which is not good. I thought if there is a groove on top and bottom the string would track parallel with one another but not the case. Has anyone tried this and what am I doiby gadittri - General
You could always use oxygen instead to save the planet!by gadittri - General
What version panelDue firmware is that, I now loaded v1.20b1 but don't see the macros on the control screen ?by gadittri - Duet
That got it DC42 you guys are the best! I changed my config.g to this. Any future work to the paneldue to add more buttons on the home screen (ie ATX PS on and Off)? M80 ; Turns on the ATX power supply ;M81 ; Turns off the ATX power supply ; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.20 or newer) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configurationby gadittri - Duet
Anyone know why my hotend doesn't show on my PanelDue firmware V1.17? The temps show but when I try to set them nothing happens. My heated bed shows up normally and I can activate it through the PanelDue.by gadittri - Duet
Something I should have tried before taking it apart was to set the Z axis motor to enabled between layers. I currently have it set to turn off the motor between layers and it may possibly be walking itself with the motor off. I have the new screw installed, just waiting on a 8mm bore pulley and a smaller belt.by gadittri - General
I thought about that also but the weight would always be constant applied so even it it did flex under weight it shouldn't change (not certain for sure though). I am making the new ball screw closer to the Z frame. This should minimize the flex if any, it is 11ga stainless and feels super rigid.by gadittri - General
Yes it is frustrating because I have so much money in this. I could have bought a cheaper mid grade printer and had better quality but I wouldn't have learned as much. What is more frustrating is the layers used to look really good but don't know if switching to petg filament made it more profound than before. I used to print abs only and never really noticed this I guess. I use only two railby gadittri - General
I already started making mods in preparation for a different ball screw to install so unable to run anymore tests. I held up the print from last night and the bands line up pretty well with my current ball screw. I don't know why this would be causing this because it rolls fairly smoothly. Now what do I use to cut a 21mm hole in 11ga stainless without mangling it to hell? I ordered some stepby gadittri - General
Here are some more pictures. Check out my simple auto level solution. I usually never use it except to manually check the level at 3 points. The magnet holds it up out of the way until I need to use it.by gadittri - General
I tightened my belts up and slowed my print speed from 50 to 30. I printed a single wall cylinder in vase mode which had no starts or stops between layers. This will be a good before and after test piece when I replace my ball screw this weekend. The layers look pretty good but can actually feel the slight imperfections. I also took some pictures of my setup as requested. My printer weighs eby gadittri - General
I maybe printing too fast at 50mm/s for petg. My printer is very sturdy so don't think it's flexing under loads. My x y belts could probably be a little tighter. I will get some pictures loaded when I get home. That model I printed was using two shells instead of 1by gadittri - General
I made sure the filament did not bind throughout the print but I am convinced its my Z axis for it to be so repeatable. I haven't printed a thin wall model in a long time so I know my tuning needs some work. This was printed at 240 with Micro Center's Inland Natural PETG. Temp recommendations are from 230-250 on the spool. I have a Kuroda 12-2 ball screw on the way to try out.by gadittri - General
I am using PWM for my hotend and my bed. My bed is a 3/8" piece of aluminum with a 1/16" PEI piece glued down to the aluminum. The filament idea could be a possibility because every once and a while I hear a pop as the filament catches on the spool or under another wrap of filament. I have my spool mounted horizonally on ball bearing spindles (spool itself turns very easily) The filament runsby gadittri - General
Thanks for the suggestions and I will print a rectangular tower when I get a chance. PETG is all I print with now since ABS was causing me sore throats and was tired of the cracking and warping that goes along with it. Yes, I do use a sponge to wipe the filament and it sure does catch a lot of dust. Just can't figure out why it would be so repeatable every so many layers if it was over extrudiby gadittri - General
I did some more testing on my Z axis using a digital indicator. I switched from 1/16 stepping to 1/4 stepping which made no difference. I homed the Z and issued a G1 Z30 and then zeroed out my indicator. I then homed the Z again and issued the G1 Z30 which the indicator still read 0.00mm. This tells me my stepper motor is not skipping steps and my homing is very repeatable. I then stepped thby gadittri - General
I am thinking of purchasing another rolled ball screw but don't want to end up with the same issue. Anyone have any luck with these chinese ball screws? I am now using a 1605 5mm pitch and curious if the 1604 4mm pitch would help. I would prefer a name brand nsk but can't justify the hundreds of dollars.by gadittri - General
Hi all, I have been battling this issue for a long time and can't figure it out. I have a custom built Core XY with a 5mm pitch ball screw for my Z axis and a 1.9 degree stepper with a 2:1 reduction. It appears repeatable about every 12-13 layers at 2.5 layer height. My bed and extruder temps are very stable and only varying by .2 degree or so. I have tried different rolls of filament but alby gadittri - General
Update on my issues. I loaded Repetier's dev. Firmware V 1.0 which no longer crashes into the negative Y limit and works as expected. My before bed distortion measurements showed my bed varied by 380um across 100 measurement points. After using a 400 point Z distortion correction map the same 100 measurement map varied by only 40um across a 255x295 bed. Awesome!! But for some reason when I prby gadittri - General
Tonight I set the Y-min to 100 and Y-max to 290 with the probe offset to 45. No matter what I set the Ymin to it will still crash the Y axis into the negative limit. If I set the probe offset to 0 then runs without crashing. I have attach screen shots of my EEPROM and Configuration file. My G32 3 points are a bit odd values because I use it to level my bed manually by probing next to my bed mby gadittri - General
After two days of trial and error I figured out a simple work around by homing all axes and then starting Y position at 47 before issuing the G33 command. The Y will move back 47mm and then begin probing normally. I did set the Y max to 290 and it is probing the entire bed. I've mapped the bed using 7x7, 10x10 and even 22x22 points. I have created height maps before and after with awesome coby gadittri - General
I have a custom CoreXY machine that has been pretty reliable except for a not so flat PEI bed. I wanted to give Repetier Firmware Z-correction another go but I am confused on how to setup the XY offsets. My Z probe is 0,47 from my hotend nozzle and my nozzle is 0,12 from the print surface when at home. This translates to the Z probe is at 0,59 from home and a maximum 255,260 where I can safelyby gadittri - General
This may or may not help you because mine was a coreXY -Gregby gadittri - General
I know its not safe but i was using a 12V 40a relay to switch my 120v 300watt bed. I definetly did not want to use pid with a mechanical relay. Switching with a ssr is much better with using pid control. I am happy to finally print decent parts again. I was fighting this for a long time.by gadittri - Printing
Ayouden, Your problem looks a lot like mine. I believe mine was solved by switching to a solid state relay for the heated bed. The relay that I was using was causing huge temp swings.by gadittri - Printing
I know this is old but wanted to share what actually fixed my layer alignment issues. I was using a relay to switch my heated bed but was getting a 4C degree temp swings using this method. I finally upgraded to a solid state relay using PID control. My bed temp is now rock solid with only 0.2 degree swings. I have attached a pic showing the 2 on the left were printed with a relay and the 2 prby gadittri - Printing
I was getting to the end of my abs filament spool so it was changed to PLA. I forgot how easy PLA is to print! All the annoying problems of ABS are gone (sticking to the bed, layer delaminating, ect..) I just need to get a cooling fan to help with small parts. Anyways, the surface finish is much better but the corners still showing some blobs. Am I being to anal about the corners looking thiby gadittri - Printing