It is much easier to make a gun without a 3d printer than with it. Using a 3D printer to make a gun is like using a paintbrush stuck into your nose to make a painting rather than holding the paintbrush in your hand. It may be considered an accomplishment by some but is pretty pointless.by lister6520 - General
I don't understand all this fuss about 3d printed guns. It has long been very easy to make home made guns out of metal and I would say even today it is much easier to make a working gun with conventional tools out of metal than it is with a 3D printer. 3D printers do not in my opinion make it any easier to make a gun, it is more of a novelty than anyhting else. Anyone who wanted to make gunsby lister6520 - General
You just need to increase the amount of material extruded in the solid layers, or the filament is being laid down too far apart.. In the print settings tab find the 'Infill' entry in the extrusion width box. If it is not zero reduce the number by perhaps 20% for a start and see how it goes. The smaller you make the number the closer the strands will be laid down in the solid infill, eliminatingby lister6520 - Reprappers
Just tried it with Skeinforge and it slices fine without any modification. Slic3r however seems to be stuck on the first layer. Usually it is faster than Skeinforge but now it has been stuck on the first layer longer than Skeinforge took to complete the whole thing, so I guess it is safe to assume that it is permanently stuck there. There's just something that it doesn't like about it. Just outby lister6520 - General
Physics_Dude Wrote: > > Perhaps I should try a new set of values. What > settings do some of you use that you know yield > the best results? I use 20 seconds minimum layer time. I don't know about the minimum feed rate though as I use Skeinforge and there doesn't seem to be the equivalent of that (or else I just cannot find it). In any case I think you should go lower than 10mm/s foby lister6520 - General
"Changing the overall minimum feed rate in Slic3r's "cooling" section does not seem to help." Make sure you also set the parameter "slow down if layer print time is below 0 seconds" to a longer time, perhaps 20 seconds or more. If you leave that at zero then the overall minimum feed rate will have no effect. The idea is that if a layer is estimated to take less than the time you define it wilby lister6520 - General
Can you show the gcode file you used, maybe there is some clue in there as to what is going wrong?by lister6520 - General
tanju Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Your print speeds are too high. RichRap describes > this in his slic3r is nicer post and gives a work > around solution. See the bottom part of this > post: > -nicer-part-2-filament-and.html I think the filament settings I mentioned above do automatically what is described in the article, that is slowing downby lister6520 - Reprappers
In skeinforge there is a 'Cool' module. This allows you to define the minimum time spent on each layer. If it estimates that a layer will complete quicker than the time you set it will slow down all operations so that the layer will take the predefined time to print. I'm not familiar with Slic3r but I have had a look into the parameters and there is one which seems to do the same thing. In thby lister6520 - Reprappers
I've been using HIPS for a few months now. What I find expensive is not the HIPS but the limonene to dissolve it. The HIPS reels if I remember cost about he same as ABS reel for the same weight. I bought one from Italy and one from the UK. I found that unless I use new uncontaminated limonene it will severely weaken and sometimes distort the ABS parts, so I cannot re-use the limonene. For everyby lister6520 - General
"I did try the thin wall calibration thing but when I adjusted that I just ended up with massive holes in the top and infill." There should be separate settings for perimeter and infill. You should be able to adjust one without affecting the other. I'm not familiar with Cura though so I can't help much with finding where the approriate settings are.by lister6520 - Reprappers
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > QuoteFor example would it be impossible to make > an extruder that took plastic pellets rather than > preformed filament? > > It's possible: > > > r.html > > > > and summing this up in german: > > > ruder.pdf > > > Regarding the original topic, there was evenby lister6520 - General
I find that lower layer heights allow greater overhangs without problems. At 0.4mm I get very poor (almost useless) quality even at less than 45 degrees whereas at 0.1mm I could easily get some 70 degrees or so. However at 0.1mm I get all sorts of unrelated problems so not very useful for me (until I sort that out). I am speaking here of normal flat surfaces not convex ones (which work better witby lister6520 - General
@NAS "If the problem were inconsistent filament diameter, wouldn't the problem manifest equally on all surfaces" Is it the solid layers that have the problem? By solid layers I mean the ones where the infill is 100%, such as the top and bottom surfaces and diaphragms. If so then it is just a matter of having too much flow to feed rate, especially for the infill. For layers that are not solidby lister6520 - Reprappers
@DaveS I used to replace the Kapton tape often because parts no longer stuck to it but then I read somewhere to clean it thoroughly with acetone before each print and I found that actually works. Now I only replace the Kapton because it gets torn while removing parts that stick too well to it. Incidentally I found that also for PLA printing on blue tape, rubbing the tape with acetone greatly impby lister6520 - Reprappers
Some thoughts on 3d printing by arc welding. I think arc welding (MIG specifically) can work like an extruder for 3D printing but with some differences/limitations: - Bridges cannot be done - overhangs will probably be limited to much smaller angles, probably 10 degrees from vertical at most - warping will probably be much worse than it is with plastics unless a very high temperature chamber isby lister6520 - General
@slarti42uk Something you might want to check is the sequence of perimeters, loops and infill. The worst sequence IMHO for correct dimensions (and also other reasons) is infill>loops>perimeters. If the perimeter is laid down last you will always get smaller holes and larger outer perimeters as the infill and loops will offset the perimeter away from them. For best dimesnional accuracy itby lister6520 - Reprappers
Have you tried the 'Stretch' module of Skeinforge ? I find it to get very close to the correct dimensions, I just activated it with the default parameters. Before activating it holes would be between 0.3 and 0.6mm too small, the error being bigger on the smaller holes. After activating it the holes are within 0.1mm of what they should be. I do still however have an issue with external diameteby lister6520 - Reprappers
I just edit the gcode file with a text editor and insert M109 commands at the appropriate palces, You will have probably have M109 S110 T0 in the startup code (assuming you have set the HBP temperature to 110) Now search for the beginning of the second layer - you can tell by the Z parameters in the gCode for instance in the first layer you might find: G1 X-109.740 Y-71.516 Z0.125 F252.000by lister6520 - Reprappers
cobrageek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks Yvan. I'll try the cut-off wheel option > and probably add some resistance to the bearing to > keep it from "just spinning". > > Mihai, I've thought about the MK7, but I wasn't > sure how it would work in the current extruder. > Isn't it larger than the bolt? How do you put > this in withby lister6520 - General
1013 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > repetier Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Current firmwares do not support this. > > > > You could write a little patch to send a M > Command > > with the new mixing ratio and move two extruder > > accordingly. > > > you are talking aboby lister6520 - Repetier
jbernardis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What is the toolchain that everybody is using for > multi-material printing. I know slic3r supports > dual extruders, but I'm not sure how to produce > the equivalent of STL files for multiple > extruders. > > Obviously I can figure out how to use one extruder > for support and the other for objecby lister6520 - Reprappers
No special setup needed - I just use Logmein from my phone (or a PC if there is one nearby) to access the PC at home and just click the stop button on ReplicatorG, which I leave connected to the printer all the time.by lister6520 - Reprappers
For overnight prints, whenever one has fails I always wake within a few minutes before any serious damage occurs. The printer is in the next room but I have no idea what causes me to wake up as it wouldn't look like it had made a big noise or anything like that. When I'm away from home and leave it printing I keep an eye on it through a webcam, checking as often as possible and stopping the prinby lister6520 - Reprappers
I had prints appearing exactly like that when I first started 3D printing. The problem was simply too much flowto feed rate ratio for the infill. I had been using the same ratio for perimeters and infill regardless of layer height. I found that down to 0.25mm layer height it was sort of OK but for thinner layers I had to reduce the infill flow to feed ratio compared to the perimeters. Probably yby lister6520 - Reprappers
I think using 1.75mm and a direct drive extruder will probably give you more accurate control over the extruded volume, at least in theory. The direct drive completely eliminates any backlash you may have had in the reduction gear. Also, since every millimeter of filament pushed through results in less volume you get finer control over the volume delivered. The disadvantage is probably that youby lister6520 - General
My printer has Chinese extruders and seems to work fine, actually the whole printer is Chinese. I've never had any other printer so I cannot really compare. All I can say is that I have never had any of the issues I read about in forums, such as jams, ooze and so on. Could also be that I am not placing too high demands on it. Actually, for accuracy's I have had some jams but none were attributby lister6520 - General
Chuck a piece of the filament in acetone. If it is ABS it will slowly dissolve. If it is PLA it will be more or less unaffected.by lister6520 - Reprappers
An interesting proposition but there might be quite a challenge to overcome. Unlike plastics, most metals (and especially aluminium) transition directly from solid to a runny liquid. There is no gradual transition into a paste like consistency like plastics do at the temperatures we extrude them. The metal softens OK as the melting point is approached but will then suddenly become a liquid and ruby lister6520 - General
If precision is needed then a good and cheap solution would be an optical sensor similar to this one: If you have a scrapped inkjet printer lying around you will almost certainly find at least one of them inside it for zeroing the print head carriage. Precision is usually very good, typically a few microns. It will however need at least a simple electronic circuit to make it compatible with theby lister6520 - General