So not really sure where to start other than, it's been a long time and life happens, the world continues to turn. so rather than bore you with the details I figure I should just jump back in as if no time has passed. Got back in the garage and started doing some work, got the printer back together after the last disaster, then my sister in law broke the printer storing her junk in my garage. Gby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Slow progress continues, The XZ frame is now screwed to the new base plate and looking steady (though it was not sitting perfectly flat before screwing down). in my attempt to attach the Y frame I noticed that the lifting of the back right corner is due to the cross bracing of the XZ frame. when constructing the printer the XZ frame was built using instructions for the original Boxframe design wby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
by stepstick he means the motor driver on your board. Cheap motor drivers like the a4984 stepstick cuts out when it gets too hot, placing a heatsink ontop of the chip and a fan blowing on the heatsink will stop this unless youare puting too much current through your motor driver or are trying to move too fast. have a look at these two pages most people with RAMPS boards now use the pololu stby Zerker - General
I was meaning in regards to current printer designs, attempting to explain why we are heading towards stiffer frames. i.e if you want to increase speed you need to firm up and or lighten up or continue at current speeds. AND works too thoughby Zerker - General
I think I can start to see where you are coming from but the Boxer analogy is throwing things out. if you want to reduce for example the inertia on the Y bed when decelerating from a move in one direction then it's more like stopping a train. if you place an immoveable object in front of the train to stop it then the rest of the train and everything on/in it wants to carry on forward. to reduceby Zerker - General
Could this be due to heat creep? if you don't have cooling on your hotend you can have the transition point for your filament get higher and higher within the hotend resulting in more molten plastic more friction and potentially a jam.by Zerker - Reprappers
Started working on the repairs over the weekend and they are taking longer than expected. I had originally planned on rebuilding the Z and X axes and had purchased the parts required to do so, and had planned on re-enforcing the frame at the same time but further investigation has revealed further problems. The most obvious problem is the misaligned prints, the layers are slightly off every othby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Lol, Well, I guess I need to put some photos up in my other thread showing the changes to my printer and if there is any print quality improvements. These new parts should at the least let me get back to printing, along with the other upgrades/replacements i should have a printer that prints recognizable objects. Neil, that's an awesome little printer in your sigby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
and looks like we have this sorted.by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
sorry, I use 3mm, otherwise I'd be all over itby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
have you tried doing a cold pull? chances are there is still some junk in your nozzle. those holes look like under extrusion. do a cold pull do a small print test if the pull comes out clean or if not clean try a harsher cleaning method likr acetone (will only work if the junk is ABS) or a blow torch (requires you disasemble your hot end as you dont ant to break any PEEK or teflon, or your heatby Zerker - Reprappers
I had this happen when assembling mine. the corner in question has been tightened down incorrectly, if yours is the same I would suggest the below. take off your bed and loosen your Y Belt loosen the nuts on the Y corner that is up in the air until it touches the ground. Then check that the other three corners are square. They should be 90 degrees from the table top on all 4 sides of your priby Zerker - Reprappers
That didn't quiet go to plan, if anyone else wants to print the parts let me know, I'm still in need as the last set were warped and unusable.by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Looks like I have found someone to print these parts but they are not too sure about the quality that the prints came out at, will post again once I receive the printsby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
yup, X end idler, X end motor mount, and x carriage from the other link. PM'd ya to discuss detailsby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Ah, sorry, looks like I put the wrong one (someone remixed the i3Rework and I got that link by mistake, work blocked reprap forums yesterday so I attempted to grab it from my history)by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Sorry, Ofcourse I can and am willing to pay for the postage was gonna discuss that with whoever agrees to do the printing as I expected to have to pay for that as well. I'm in Hamilton so can pick them up if local. I'm after both X ends from this: and I might as well get the x Carriage replaced at the same time, so this here: I have the following extruder which uses 30mm spacing for the x cby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Update number .... I forget. The bed levelling is working great and I have re-calibrated my extruder (it was pulling in 32mm when asked to do 30) and also discovered I had setup Slic3r to say I had a 0.4mm nozzle when I actually have a 0.5. this seemed to clean up the prints but only by a small bit. I noticed that the prints still had a lot of noticeable ridging on the vertical faces which wasby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Ask around with anyone you know that messes with PC's they may have a spare ATX powersupply you can use/get on the cheapby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi all, I have broken my X end motor mount, and cant print a replacement (not that I was able to print one before I broke it but more on that in my other thread) I'm after someone to print me both X ends from the Prusa i3 rework (the ones with the split bearing holders not the fully open ones) I may also need the matching bearing idler for the X belt and a new X carriage, get in touch and we canby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
My understanding is that Zip ties are used for mounting bearings to minimize alignment errors, if you are sandwiching the bearings between two plates that are solid across both bearings they will have no room to move to "auto" correct alignment, though if you pre-build that part it's less of an issue? as for auto levelling, your X axis is quite wide as is the spacing of your Z bearings, does thiby Zerker - Reprappers
(Update) Got less work than expected done (wife did not see the merits of spending all 6 days in the garage, but hey enough about that) I have replaced the Heated bed with an MDF base and setup the three bolt leveling system, setup a Z probe (I suppose not realy a probe more of a depth stick) and hard mounted the Z endstop. There have been a few problems but things are working much better than bby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
if you remove all the wiring (including power) and connect to PC with only the following plugged in: Arduino, RAMPS, StepStick. Does your laptop go haywire? it should do nothing but assign a Com port to the board. from there you can load the firmware and then disconect from PC and continue wiring up. Go Here for a correct wiring guide for the RAMPS board, make sure yours is the sameby Zerker - General
long-time no progress, after last pics I haven’t wanted to print anything as I was aware of some issues that needed a fair amount of work to resolve and didn’t have the time or inclination to do it, now I've taken two days off work to "Get 'er done" (6 day long weekend) what I want to get done over this time is: Re-do bed levelling apparatus create a Z probe hard mount the Z endstop replace woodby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The first Step in calibrating your printer is getting a good starting point, as advised above use the calculator to get the settings for your steps per MM, you do not need to calibrate these further. the next thing is to make sure your printer is mechanically sound, if you have free play in your axis or are skipping steps then you wont be able to calibrate (you wont get repeatable results as theby Zerker - Reprappers
So you slice the file, export your Gcode, replace the end of your Gcode text to be the commands you want. save the file upload the file into pronterface and hit print, and it still does not execute the code that is at the end of the file?by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
your print looks like it is shifting in the x or y axis, check your belt tension, it should be taught so that you can make it twang like a guitar string, not like a slingshot or bow. if the belt does not have enough tension then it can cause backlash or slipping on the pulley. the calibration of your x and y axis will need to be done again once oyu tighten your beltsby Zerker - General Mendel Topics
I thought it was a fillament guide, but I suppose it could be for that too can you give a bit more detail about how your print bed is attached and the leveling system? I'm having trouble with that on mine, might flag the heatbed all together. Nice build, looks far cleaner than mysetup, how are your prints going?by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
hmn, feeler gauge, now there's a thought. if I have the Z endstop hard fixed to the bottom of the printer (z motor mount) then have an adjustable probe on the Z axis (a screw with a nylock nut locked in place so the screw turns and the nut does not) then it should be easier for me to level the bed, I can go the route of a feeler gauge if I dont get it with the paper method. I'm just glad that I'by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Cheers I also asked the reprap IRC chat with a link to the same pics, they said pretty much the same advising that the bed is probably not level and that the nozzle is too close to the bed, that first layer is extremely thin, and it fits with what you wuold expect, as the nozle is too close it is not pushing out all the fillament that is being fed in and you get a build up in pressure that eventuby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group