Do you have the jumpers installed correctly? This article shows how to upgrade to DRV8825 drivers. My guess would be that your stepper jumpers are still set up for the A8498 Polou drivers. Hope that solves your problem!by 3D-ME - Controllers
I don't have any socket head screws on my printer and they seem to do the job fine, but I defintely see rhmorrison's point, I just chose phillips/flat heads because they are more available (and cheaper) in my neck of the woods.by 3D-ME - General Mendel Topics
I've tried to put Marlin Firmware on an Arduino Uno, but it took up too much memory and didn't fit, however, you should be able to use Teacup Firmware on the Uno. I am currently designing a RAMPS-style RepRap shield compatible with the Arduino Uno, and successfully got Teacup to compile for the UNO, so it should work for you as well.by 3D-ME - Controllers
That is an awesome castle Andrey! I'm very impressed with your printer, it's definitely a good way to draw attention to 3D printing! Do you have a file (.stl, .obj, etc) that we can view/modify/print?by 3D-ME - General
It sounds like you have a short somewhere on the hot end heater. I would start by checking/insulating all the wires to the hot end heater.by 3D-ME - General
I really don't think that the motor height would really matter, however, I don't own an i3, so I'm not too sure!by 3D-ME - Controllers
I bought some used steppers and a cheap RAMPS board off of eBay, which works Okay, but Ultimachine has some RAMPS and steppers that look like they're pretty good quality. The RepRap wiki has a list of stepper motor suppliers Here, and a list for RAMPS Here.by 3D-ME - Controllers
I would use Prusa's calculator to estimate the proper steps_per_unit on your leadscrews and acceleration rates to get you into the ball park, and then fine-tune later when your steppers are working correctly. Hypothesis alert: It seems to me that the problem may still be a hardware one, and that the different firmware settings are just allowing the motors to cope with whatever hardware issue therby 3D-ME - General
Quotemrboost Great thank you for the help I'm guessing it's this little guy? Thank you again, Ck Yes, that is the popular A4988 stepper driver used by many if not most RepRappers. In my experience they work quite nicely as long as you put heat sinks on them!by 3D-ME - Controllers
I use Pololu A4988s, but I have heard a lot of good reviews on the Pololu DRV8825 stepper driver. The DRV8825 runs cooler than the A4988, can go down to 1/32 microstepping, and is compatible with the A4988 pinout.by 3D-ME - Controllers
That is the method that I use to calibrate the stepper movement. But I would just put the setting back to default until the motors are working correctly if I were you, to avoid any mistakes as in my case. I think the default setting (on line 440) is: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} It might be possible that you misplaced a decimal point while changing the sby 3D-ME - General
I once had a problem with my steppers when I had a typo in the steps_per_mm setting, causing the setting to be different than what the motor can handle. What firmware do you have on your RAMPS?by 3D-ME - General
Okay, I was able to recreate your problem on my own printer by moving then 4 pin motor socket on my ramps over by 1 pin, so that only 3 of the 4 motor wires were connected. So that makes me suspect a wiring issue. Double-checking the wiring to the Ramps may be a good idea at this point, and I would install Sprinter and test it over pronterface, but the new firmware may not be really necessary. Haby 3D-ME - General
I also have 6 lead motors, but only 4 wires. I don't have the second and fifth pins wired to my motors, they are insulated and isolated from everything else. I had this problem (among countless others,) on my own printer before, so I'll do some brain-racking to see if I can remember how I fixed it! It might be possible that the firmware could be the issue, however, I'm not sure how realistic thatby 3D-ME - General
You might have to change the current coming from the stepper drivers by adjusting the potentiometer on them. It is also possible that the driver may be dead, so you may want to swap positions with another stepper driver on your board to see if it is dead.by 3D-ME - Reprappers
I agree that we should have some sort of criteria for sellers and shops to meet if they seek to get listed in the wiki, by guiding newcomers to better products, even though they may cost a little more, we will save users a lot of frustration in the long run. (As I learned the hard way!)by 3D-ME - General
I had this problem several months back, and if I remember correctly (which is iffy at best), to fix it I had to change the voltage coming from the pololu stepper driver.by 3D-ME - General
This wiki page should show you how to add the SD card reader: I haven't seen those gold things before, so I honestly don't know what to say about them... Where did you purchase the kit?by 3D-ME - Reprappers
I'm glad it's working! Best of luck to you on the rest of your calibration!by 3D-ME - General Mendel Topics
Awesome! I'm glad to be of help.by 3D-ME - Printing
I think I misread, actually! But I use a fan on my pololus as well as heatsinks, to keep everything cool. Good luck on your print!by 3D-ME - Printing
I'll bet having no heatsinks is the problem. After burning out two of them myself, I think that you really should have some heatsinks on your pololu drivers, as it will cause them to overheat and shut down for a second to cool (as you mentioned), causing the exact problem that you are having. Also, having heatsinks will also allow to send more (and perhaps even less?) voltage to the motor, whichby 3D-ME - Printing
You definitely have skipped steps; have you tried upping the voltage from the pololu to the skipping motor? That could help even if there is some sort of problem with the Z axis.by 3D-ME - Printing
I generally use 175-180 C for my PLA. Good luck!by 3D-ME - Printing
It is normal for your hot end to ooze while it warms up. In expert mode on slic3r you can change the retraction length (under the printer settings > extruder 1 tab). You may want to experiment with a longer retraction length. Are you using a bowden extruder setup?by 3D-ME - Printing
It sounds like it could be the motor, I use high torque NEMA 17's on my printer. Is the voltage from the pololu stepper driver to your motor set correctly? If not, that may be the cause.by 3D-ME - General
I can't think of what may cause the Z axis to be off if the step per mm are correct, however, you may want to check your extruder steps settings as it may be pushing out too much material, causing layer heights to be off. That is my guess, do you have any pictures of the print?by 3D-ME - Printing
Do you use retraction? It looks like that you may need to change your retraction settings, because that is what should keep your hot end from leaving all those strings.by 3D-ME - Printing
I would definitely use a heatsink and fan to cool the power mosfet for a heated bed! I also use a bit of corrugated cardboard as a sort of 'insulation' underneath my heated bed, and that seems to help out a little, too. The problem with your cube is probably heat/cooling related, have a look at this:by 3D-ME - General Mendel Topics