Hey guys! I've recently been printing products that have found their way on to some store shelves but I have an issue: The black filament I've been using (as usual) is poorer quality than the other colors. I've been using the Hatchbox stuff from Amazon and it's good but not great. Anyone know of any great black ABS? I'm willing to pay more too by the way. Thanks!by SamS - General
Hey that's a cool idea! I think the RepRap community came together so well because it's like the only cheap option for owning a printer Boats are not that way so your biggest hurdle will be attracting the niche crowd needed for a really involved community. As far as legal, just make each new member agree to a disclaimer that you are totally not responsible for any damage (personal, monetary, eby SamS - General
Quotecdru I know it's an older post, but your numbers are incorrect for what you're trying to compute as you are confusing thermal conductivity with heat transfer coefficient. Thermal conductivity is how well heat flows within a material. For our heater blocks, we want heat to flow very well so that it's even and no hot spots right next to the heater but not on the far side of the melt chamberby SamS - General
That's an excellent idea. I think it would almost be easiest to gut an actual mouse, seeing as you can get them for almost (or actually) nothing in most cases. You need some sort of interface electronics because an arduino can't just hook right up to the little sensor itself (well probably) I have an old mouse i can gut tonight to see if i can get a consistent reading. Does ramps have two anby SamS - Developers
I like this. If anyone starts working on it and needs help let me know, I'd be happy to contribute.by SamS - Developers
I had an idea a while ago, I made a design for it but my computer has since been stolen. The idea is that you have an enclosure, any material, as long as it's relatively sealed. You use your chamber's temp sensor in conjunction with the hotend/bed sensors to detect a fire. (wouldn't be difficult, a rapid rise or anything over like 100C in the chamber) Then, in a little case tucked under the prby SamS - Safety & Best Practices
I think the issues people have with ATX is that they get them so cheap. If an ATX supply puts out 60 amps AND has all the connections/voltages/features for a computer, why do they cost far less than a dedicated supply? The expectations people have for power vs. cost are simply unrealistic. I did the whole cheap $50 ATX thing and hated it as well. A buddy of mine recently gave me the power supplby SamS - Developers
QuoteZavashier Ball bearings and aluminium goes wrong because the balls digs into aluminium. Not true. The rods I was referring to have a surface hardness of C70 and most bearings are C55-65. Hardened aluminum also doesn't flex enough to really ne a factor over the 300-400mm we're dealing with. The only drawback I can think of is that they're really really expensive. Hardened steel is the way tby SamS - General
I've got a question for you all...has anyone considered hardened aluminum? On Mcmaster you can get aluminim rods harder than ANY of their steel rods (C70) What would the drawbacks be? We don't have to worry about them being brittle really and as a plus aluminum is super light..by SamS - General
Hi! Check out my first post here. Maybe not exactly what you're looking for but relevant for sure.by SamS - General
Hi! I think you're right about the different sections- I've had issues and had to post in general too which I'd rather not do. Anyway- 1. I don't think so and why? It's usually pretty close. You could always insert a 'wait' command after the print is done and that will add time but I'm not sure what you're trying to do. 2. It tells you what z height you're on which is easy for me I guess when Iby SamS - General
Hahahaha it turns out I somehow had my filament multiplier set to 185 instead of 85. Not sure how that happens but thank you for the advice anyway.by SamS - Printing
Hi guys, So I tried cura today because Skeinforge is too slow. Two things happened: 1. The circular object on the right came out AMAZING. Like I can't even see where the print lines are. This makes me want to keep trying Cura. HOWEVER... 2. The cube on the right did....that. I've never even seen this before anywhere. Anyone have advice? I have no idea where to even start. My Skeinforge/curaby SamS - Printing
It's 2.7, serial is for the same version yes and I used windows installer, except for pyglet which I did manually as it says. Again, I can do it fine through the command prompt so I'm really at a loss here. I think I'm juay going to go back to the precompiled 2011 version until it gets sorted out.by SamS - General
Hi guys, I have the latest pronterface finally installed and working but it won't connect to my printer. The interesting part is that I am able to manually connect from the command line by importing serial, but for some reason printerface isn't able to connect at all. I get this error: Traceback (most recent call last): File "C:\Users\samks_000\Downloads\Printrun-master\Printrun-master\printby SamS - General
Yeah you nailed exactly what I was talking about in the first diagram. And why does the compression matter? It would theoretically stay the same the whole time and not affect amything, just like how a little stretch in the belt doesn't matter because it's uniformly distributed. Ohm is right. In situations where you want your belt to do 20 years instead of 15 under heavy loads it's probably impby SamS - General
Actually most of the time they fill them with Argon or Krypton. The vacuum idea is very new and not reliable yet.by SamS - General
I disagree that idler pulleys are necessary with the GT2 tooth profile. The only thing they could really do is add a small bit of binding and create uneven tension. Also, and especially in printed pulleys, if the distance between the two catching teeth of a pulley is not EXACTLY divisible by the spacing between the teeth (on top AND bottom), you'll get uneven tension as you switch directions. xcby SamS - General
tmorris oh I see, yeah good call with the electronics inside. I kept all my wires long (and messy) so I can put mine outside but I guess I should assume most people have their ramps trimmed pretty close to their printer somewhere. Paul, yeah that's exactly what I had in mind. Here in Minnesota they regularly stock up to 2" (maybe not that R value but still) Have you gotten the chance to get an Iby SamS - General
It looks good, but I'm still quite skeptical about maintaining a decent temperature with just the bed in those kind of enclosures, however an external heating element might get it a lot warmer. If you're looking to maintain a decent temp though, I don't think that greenhouse stuff (at 5mm anyway) will work. If I were you I would find out the equivalent heat coefficient of that material, becauseby SamS - General
Thanks for the input, that's what I was thinking. A key aspect of that enclosure is that it doesn't touch the printer so the walls don't act like a diaphragm from the vibration and such, but you're right a full inch will allow lots of convection. I was thinking of using like seran wrap or something stupid cheap and somehow printing corner brackets thst would allow me like 6 thin layers....althougby SamS - General
Hi guys, I've been think a lot about print quality and exactly what sets repraps back from the pros (I'm not talking about all of these little startups, most of you have them beat) but companies like Stratasys. I think there is a very good reason that commercial printers are all enclosed and actively heated. I think one of the main RepRap setbacks is trying to account for an absurd amount oby SamS - General
85%?! Yikes. If you get crazy fluctuations and really want to control it I know they make sponges for instruments that keep humodity constant...you can either soak them in water to add humidity or wring them out and they sap up extra moisture.by SamS - General
Hmmm this is really interesting...double check your diode orientation. I haven't quite wrapped my mind around your setup but I've experienced something similar so i'll throw some ideas out there. What happens when you send S200 or 150? See how low you can get it while still triggering the MOSFETs. I don't know if the PWM coming out of the RAMPS transistors will give you a smooth enough curve buby SamS - General
Nice prints, and I really like the quartz idea. I'm curious as to why regular glass is out of the question. Although it's pretty breakable, I feel like you could get the price down to almost disposable levels. What slicer/speeds are you using for your prints? 36 hours is a LOT of time. Also as far as the two nozzle thing, you could mount a small servo to your carriage that would swing down aby SamS - General
I used to think these little kickstarters were neat, but this one really bothers me. I'm fed up with these startups swooping in and grabbing a half million from the public without their product having to go through the gauntlet of the consumer market. Here are the things I can see from just skimming the page: (I apologize in advance for the rant) 1. .39 microns? No way in hell. Even Stratasys'sby SamS - General
Thanks for the advice everyone! I really appreciate it. I'm curently trying with python 2.7.8. My old PC ran on windows 7 so that may be it, but I am running as the administrator and the confusing part is that Skeinforge works just fine. I tried running from the command line and I attached what I got. I feel like it has got to be somewhat obvious- also has anyone installed pyglet 1.1.4 for pytby SamS - General
Hi Everyone, Sorry for posting in "general" but there seems to be no specific subgroup for Printrun. I'm using skeinforge which works great but for some reason I can't install Pronterface to connect to my printer! The frustrating part is that I installed it on my old computer only weeks ago but I was robbed- now on my new computer it just isn't working. I've tried the newest versions of pythonby SamS - General
Thanks for the advice! I know welded would be strongest, but with the frame I really don't need too much strength so I'll probably go with a 6061 & polycarbonate structure. I'd also like to keep within the RepRap concept and make it mill-able. I'll probably use a laser or inductive prox sensor for the auto-leveling. FSR doesn't sound like it can do heat too well. Where do you gather I onby SamS - General
Hi everyone, I've started designing a new printer, and though it is mostly just for fun I thought I would see if anyone is particularly interested. It goes in the opposite direction of most RepRaps I've seen and for good reason- It won't be terribly practical for too many people. A little background- I am a mechanical engineer who does automation engineering, and I find the difference betwby SamS - General