true that.... i've been printing for months now and my prints still look rubbish!by T0mmm - General
make it appealing to more girls, i.e. more chocolate 3D printers! Also: make a movie about 3D printers gone bad, perhaps: *a 'speed' style movie where bruce willis has to 3D print a Yoda within 30 minutes *godzilla, but it's a massive printer spewing spaghetti filament everywhere. Printerzilla. * Grand designs, where Kevin McCloud watches a concrete printer create a house, and it takes monthsby T0mmm - General
autodesk inventor (free for students!), solidworks is for childrenby T0mmm - General
not sure if you're a student or have an academic email address (university or college etc), but if you do: go to students.autodesk.com, and you can get autodesk inventor for freeby T0mmm - General
I got my 0.4mm J-head from reprap-uk, it came with everything i needed and was very well machined. They even included some silicone 'string' to help tie the thermistor down, and some brass wire crimps to connect the power resistor. The nozzle worked really well for me until i crashed the nozzle into the bed and it destroyed itself ! I'd recommend the J-head to get experience with printing as itby T0mmm - General
I have a digitiser on my desk, and i've noticed that sometimes it begins to covertly scan my face. But as soon as i look directly at it, it stops. do you think this is the spyware, spying?by T0mmm - General
Quotecdru QuoteDoug1So next time all the vetrals say "Go to hotends.com ya newb" Listen. just saying.Or just get an E3D hot end and never worry about it cracking, melting, or otherwise breaking again. I've just done exactly this, I didn't think hotends/ nozzles made all that much of a difference but the filament comes out so much smoother and consistently now.. wow! +1 for an E3D hotend & nby T0mmm - General
the biggest thing that i overlooked was making sure the filament is dry, and kept dry! Get a damp absorber and a big sealed sandwich box, and store your filament in it... definitleyl makes a difference!by T0mmm - Printing
hmmm i still have the hard drive from inside my stratasys genisys xs, I'll have a look on there... maybe someone backed up the CD to an iso :/ i've never looked to see what's on it! i may have a look tonightby T0mmm - General
the tutorial here says: "You can use Photoshop CS6 Extended, plus two free cross-platform tools: 3D printing utility Cura, and model-cleanup and processing tool MeshLab." So from that I understand that it won't generate the G-code directly; rather it creates an STL file which your slicing program (cura or slic3r, etc) will use to create G-code. So the process would be: 1. design your objectby T0mmm - General
if your pulley is held on with a grub screw, and the shaft hole is too big then it will run off-center. for now, you can put some aluminium foil / pie tray around the shaft to make up the difference in size, for that price the pulleys are probably quite low quality. the belt definitely shouldn't get tighter and looser as it movesby T0mmm - General
QuoteAntslake TOmmm is that a JT guitar as in James Taylor? No it's for my friend's guitar tuition shop, JT guitar I thought i'd make him a clock! this was a scaled down prototype just to fiddle with temperatures etcby T0mmm - General
why not remove the source of your problem? put whoever is complaining about your fantastic machine in the shedby T0mmm - General
I think 110C is too high a bed temperature to print on, I have found that 70C gives brilliant adhesion onto Kapton cleaned with acetone, and easy to remove if you print with a brim. Here my nozzle temp of 208C could be a bit higher, or my print speed slowed down. these were done at 40mm/sec. It's still nice and clear but it could be better. This stuff is amazingly easy to print with... highly reby T0mmm - General
If the price a vendor puts on a product is the price that the customer is willing to pay... what's the problem? both parties are happyby T0mmm - General
Quotedave3d Got my smoke alarm and relay base and wired them up. It is an Aico Ei141 ionisation smoke alarm with an Ei128R relay base unit. Tested it with a bit of burning paper. It cuts the mains power a few seconds after the alarm goes off. However, once the alarm silences and the unit resets, the power comes back on. This is not the action required. It needs to stay off. Only way I can thiby T0mmm - Safety & Best Practices
hello, first i would try turning the speed of your motors down (the feedrate) - if they are trying to turn too quickly they will just buzz. You should be able to do this in your software (i know you can in Repetier Host). Secondly I would double check the wiring of the motors, google will be able to help you there, you could also look here: . I'd keep the Vref down at about 0.4V, you can damby T0mmm - General
you'll probably find that the 80mm fan won't spin as fast as the 40mm fan, if at all. in series they will both spin at 50% of normal speed anyway, even if the current draw was the same for both fans. what about connecting your 40mm fan straight to the power supply (through a fuse!) so that it's always running when the printer is turned on?by T0mmm - General
you could maybe program in a bunch of X or Y axis moves, at a ridiculously slow feedrate? it would be difficult to get the timing exactly right thoughby T0mmm - General
Quotethejollygrimreaper pla doesn't dissolve in acetone the easiest way might be to put it on something heat tolerant and heat it up over 200c with a blow torch or something similar sorry I'm an ABS man! I thought they both did.by T0mmm - General
What about soaking the whole thing in some pure acetone to dissolve or soften the pla ? False nail remover is usually pure acetone (not nail varnish remover)by T0mmm - General
Quoteloco I don't think you want a powder based fire extinguisher at Home. It works of course, but the powder makes a huge mess. I bet nobody wants to clean that. Better get a foam, or CO2 based fire extinguisher. I'd much rather have to clean up powder from my enclosure than sweep up the ashes of my house! good point though.by T0mmm - Safety & Best Practices
Has anyone considered using one of these? It's basically a powder fire extinguisher with a plastic tube which is permanently connected to the bottle. When flames melt through the plastic tube it releases the extinguisher and hopefully puts out the fire A lot of VW campervan owners have them installed (myself included!) because the engine is almost underneath the petrol tank haha. Lots of caby T0mmm - Safety & Best Practices
My Stratasys printer has two belts that raise and lower the heated bed up to the nozzle. It's nice and rigid but at the same time if you mess up the first layer height the belts will flex, instead of ripping the extruder nozzle off the stepper motor holding it up is a beast though... impossible to move when it's powered up!by T0mmm - General
you could try reducing the max speed of your z motor, either in your slicer program or firmware. if the speed is far too high you'll just hear a quick 'beep' from your motor instead of it moving, because it can't step that quicklyby T0mmm - General
My printer isn't working, I've got a little stressed, My adhesion is substandard And i'm wasting ABS All i get is noodles, That look a bit like hay, Perhaps I should have read some more and bought some PLA At 20 pounds a kilo I can't take it any more, and slic3r keeps on crashing so it's back to the eBay store I've got errors with my Marlin; problems with my config file, perhaps I'll go and cby T0mmm - General
Hello, it depends on what controller ('brain') your 3d printer will have; for the majority of arduino based boards you can use ReplicatorG, repetier-host (my personal favourite), and quite a few others. have a read of this page on the reprap wiki this page is for the software that your computer will use to communicate with the 3d printer. the controller board in your 3d printer also has soby T0mmm - General
I pronounce it like Eric Clapton... because he lives in a hot place (California), and hasn't aged in years. Therefore he must be heatproof, I.e. Eric Kapton ... I'll get my coatby T0mmm - General