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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: ripple print - 10 years ago
Hmm... I was about to say that maybe it was because of the rods being wobbly. Are you 100% certain that your trapezoidal rods are almost perfectly straight ? with standard M8 threaded rods, these are usually bent really bad for 3D printing purposes, which is why i changed my rods for M5, a smaller pitch = smaller effect of Z-wobble, I have now an anti wobble nut-setup connected to the rods (foundby borupdk - Printing
Re: What is happening to my corners? - 10 years ago
Try to print the object without any kind of retraction, I have a hunch that would almost eliminate your problem.by borupdk - Printing
Re: ripple print - 10 years ago
We need som additional info. However, that said, when I had a similar issue it turned out to be my Z-rods, which rods are you using ?by borupdk - Printing
Re: Gappy prints - 10 years ago
Im 80% sure those artifacts are caused by under extrusion, could you please verify that your steps per mm are dead on ?by borupdk - Printing
Re: Blobs on layer change - 10 years ago
I've fought with this issue before, I simply solved it by performing retraction along a seam, slic3r has that option somewhere.by borupdk - Printing
Re: bowden extruder, extrusion issues. - 10 years ago
OK - I found a solution, although a bit drastic. Decided to say screw it, and upgraded to a Prusa i3 instead, now im printing with direct drive, which works flawless !by borupdk - Printing
Re: My Elephant has Pimples 
- 10 years ago
Well.. the thing is, if it turns out to be that particular issue, i just stuck with an alligned seam around the object - you can fiddle around with the retraction parameters in order to optimise the seam.by borupdk - Printing
Re: My Elephant has Pimples - 10 years ago
Are you performing retraction on the same spot ?, if no, try to change it to that.by borupdk - Printing
bowden extruder, extrusion issues. - 10 years ago
So, lately I've changed my direct extruder on my Prusa i2 to gain a couple of centimeters of build height, while this is only momentarily since I plan on upgrading to an i3 soon, I'd still like to gain the experience to work with a bowden extruder. Recently I also bought 4 kgs of PLA, since I've just about had it with ABS plastic, PLA seems to be a far more forgiving material to work with. Anywby borupdk - Printing
Slic3r vs Firmware acceleration settings - 11 years ago
Hey Guys, There's something which I never quite fully understood, and that is the acceleration settings in slic3r and the firmware, If i for example in repetier firmware specify a max print acceleration of 800 mm/s^2 and a travel acceleration of 1000 mm/s^2 what happens then if i specify 2000 mm/s^2 in slic3r as an acceleration setting for bridge printing ? - does the firmware simply ignore thaby borupdk - Printing
Re: Difficulties while homing Z - 11 years ago
Now it's getting really interesting, out of curiousity i tried to switch to another interface (repetier host) and hey presto ! no homing difficulties !by borupdk - Printing
Re: Difficulties while homing Z - 11 years ago
Quotebrucehvn How are you calibrating? If you are using a piece of paper or a feeler gauge, I found that a lot of times my hotend would end up with a small bit of hardened plastic at the nozzle. This would throw off the calibration just a bit making me think the nozzle was too close. After adjusting and starting a print, the plastic would melt when the hotend heated up and then the nozzle woulby borupdk - Printing
Difficulties while homing Z - 11 years ago
I have a minor problem which causes me a great deal of suffering. Whenever i have moved my printer i always have to recalibrate my Z axis, no biggie. However after the calibrationg / homing has been performed (using pronterface) and the print is initiated, the Z axis will move upwards a fraction of a mm leading to the filament not sticking, and so i have to calibrate again whilst the Z axis is atby borupdk - Printing
Re: Stepper motor skips one or two steps - 11 years ago
Sadly no, but i see the extend of the problem increases when i lower the temperature of the heated bedby borupdk - Printing
Re: Over 20lbs of 3mm ABS for sale!!!! - 11 years ago
Man i would have loved to buy all that ! - but im just a poor student, i sincerely hope you get to sell it !!!by borupdk - For Sale
Re: Differences in batches of plastic ? - 11 years ago
I see, well at least i was lucky with the lithuanian and danish guys, the plastic works good, it's just slightly more difficult to extrude than else :-)by borupdk - Printing
Differences in batches of plastic ? - 11 years ago
Hi, is it just me or are there major differences in batches of filament ? - for instance i took a couple of metres of filament from my university (yes shame on me for stealing :-( ) for calibration purposes, first i bought some filament from a guy here in Denmark which doesnt live that far away from me, but i experienced the filament being more difficult to extrude by hand, than compared to theby borupdk - Printing
Re: Stepper motor skips one or two steps - 11 years ago
OK - I lowered the jerk rate and acceleration, i also set the reference voltage on my 4988 drivers to 0.38V, now it seems to run perfectly, although i have some problems with the plastic in the perimeters tend to warp inwards, i suspect it's because during this print i was sitting near a rather cold window, so the plastic might have cooled off too quickly. I have attached a couple of pictures, thby borupdk - Printing
Re: Stepper motor skips one or two steps - 11 years ago
OK - I assume the procedure is just to turn the pot until the motor spasses out, 1/8th the opposite way, and maybe a little more to be sure, correct ?by borupdk - Printing
Stepper motor skips one or two steps - 11 years ago
Hi, i have some minor problems during longer prints, it happens randomly that my stepper motors can happen to skip a step or two while printing, should i maybe lower acceleration in the firmware, and or adjust the pots on the stepper drivers ?by borupdk - Printing
Re: Difficulties extruding filament - 11 years ago
Im reading between 1.80 and 1.84 mm on my caliper, i am able to extrude manually by feeding the hotend with the filament. :-) - it should be noted that when the 'clogging' of the extruder occurs, the filament will curl up like a spiral and eventually snap.by borupdk - Printing
Difficulties extruding filament - 11 years ago
Ever since i stopped using some filament i borrowed from my university, i've been having difficulties extruding my new filament. If i set pronterface to extrude 10, 50 or 100 mm by pressing the extrude button, it does the job. But whenever i start a job, then after a layer or two, the flow of the plastic stops, and i have to disassemble my extruder and pick out the plastic bits. I have a theoryby borupdk - Printing
Re: ATX power supply for Gen7 - 12 years ago
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Quote- How big a PSU do I need for a standard > Prusa setup ? > > Depends on the equipment. Add 1.5 for each axis + > extruder, 3A for the extruder heater and the > heated bed, if you have one. Multiply with 1.5 to > have a margin against overload. > > 226W might be sufficient to run without aby borupdk - General
Re: ATX power supply for Gen7 - 12 years ago
nechaus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Generally speaking, I try to avoid PSU with fans, > Fanless server psu's are the way to go imo > > > Used plenty of 300-1200 watt psu's with fans, no > problems, > Fanless is much better tho, and quiet True, and to make things worse, the 680W PSU is noisy as hell, so I think i'm going to put a potmeby borupdk - General
Re: ATX power supply for Gen7 - 12 years ago
Btw.. I just looked through the website of a hardware shop nearby, i can buy a 500W (max 30A load on +12V rail) for 35$ I think I'm going to buy that next monthby borupdk - General
Re: ATX power supply for Gen7 - 12 years ago
Thanks ! and how should i connect a dummy load to the +5V rail ? like just a resistor across it down to GND ? (1k, 10 k .. ?) Anyway I'm going for the dualsetup with both my 680W and 226W that way im in the safe area.by borupdk - General
Re: ATX power supply for Gen7 - 12 years ago
The 680W PSU is rated at 22 A max on the +12V line, though I think this might be a little too optimistic, because the last couple of times i've tried to have some kind of load on it, the PSU had a 1V voltage drop after ~220 W so the total ampage would have been 20 A. My idea as it seems now, would be to connect my 680 W PSU as the main supply, and let the load be heatbed + hotend, and have a 2ndby borupdk - General
ATX power supply for Gen7 - 12 years ago
Hi, I've built the Gen7 v. 1.5 board and now I'm looking to connect a proper PSU (The one i have now is 226W) but I couldn't find any clues on the wiki page, so my basic question is : - How big a PSU do I need for a standard Prusa setup ? - Is a 680 W ATX enough ? My main concern is how many amps you can draw from a single +12V rail ? since heatbed + hotend alone takes ~ 14 A And i've read onby borupdk - General