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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Glass bed??? - 10 years ago
Ikea ( if you have one near you! ) do a perfect 20 x 20 mirror with rounded edges and round corners. Mirror glass is typically tempered so it is more hearproof and the metal film helps distribute heat, its a good cheap solution plus you get 4! Otherwise check around other shops I guess you are US cos you used inches so Wall mart? target? Home Depot?by clack - General
Repetier Host 0.95F broke somthing - 10 years ago
I was using it and did a few prints then when removing a file in the placement mode it closed itself. After restarting the program after a reboot it still does not work and I get the following message. OpenTK.Graphics.GraphicsModeException: Requested GraphicsMode not available. at OpenTK.Platform.X11.X11GraphicsMode.SelectGraphicsMode (ColorFormat color, Int32 depth, Int32 stencil, Int32 samby clack - Repetier
Re: Avg Price Of Filament? Will The Price Ever Drop? - 10 years ago
Relatively the material incredibly cheap to a lot of other 3d processes a 1kg spool goes a long way. £20 ( dirty ebay stuff ) to £40 for a kilo of extruded plastic seems fairly reasonable to me.by clack - General
Re: Easy release? - 10 years ago
Quotethejollygrimreaper glass is pretty cheap at any window shop , i'm normally got when i'm printing a lot up 4 pieces in the cycle Also Ikea do a 4 pack of 20x20 mirrors for pretty cheap! ( mirrors are tempered glass )by clack - General
Re: No power to heatbed, how to test ramps for problem?? - 11 years ago
had this exact same problem. With the bed I found there are 2 issues at play here. 1. The standard MOSFET that is typically found in theese kits have an RDS that creates a fair amount of heat at 10A and at this level the datasheet says stick a heatsink on. Screwing a piece of metal to the MOSFET cures the issue I use an aluminium bracket because thats what I had laying around, thermal compoundby clack - General
Re: Glass Heat Bed Adheasion - 11 years ago
After lots of experiments I have found that the thing that improved the adheasion the most was first layer height. Lowering it from .35 to .2 makes it work so much better, pretty much sticks every time. only issue of course is there is a slight brimby clack - General
Re: Glass Heat Bed Adheasion - 11 years ago
A bit of sucess! I had an idea, I flipped the mirror upside down so I have a less shiny surface and it worked much better! I dont know if the foil will eventually pull off. Is it a possibility that different glass products have different stickyness? Mirror glass is tempered, and I guess it is used because it can withstand the heat and resist extruder crashes? P.S Dave thankyou for your helby clack - General
Glass Heat Bed Adheasion - 11 years ago
Hello, Sorry if this is another my print wont stick thread but I have spent quite a while trying to get my PLA to stick to glass but I just cant get it to work consistently enough that I can control it! I dont want to use tape as this is why I invested in a heat bed and I can see it will work because occasionally it does but most of the time it does not! I have a pretty typical 2012 setup ( i sby clack - General
Re: home made pcb heated bed? - 11 years ago
Quoteclack I might be wrong but If you are using a switching supply I am sure the power wastage is negligable compared to the watts you are using for the head bed and I am thankfull not to use mains as it is so easy to make a mistake! Ok just looked it up, ATX PSU suppliers mostly quote around 20% wastage! thats about 120W right?by clack - General
Re: home made pcb heated bed? - 11 years ago
I might be wrong but If you are using a switching supply I am sure the power wastage is negligable compared to the watts you are using for the head bed and I am thankfull not to use mains as it is so easy to make a mistake! I think It can hold up to the current if you increase the resistance of the tracks (thinner & longer tracks) and prehaps use a diode to half wave recitfy the voltage dowby clack - General
Re: Z axis won't move with both motors connected - squeals and grinds - 11 years ago
have you checked your z threads are perfectly vertical? if you turn them by hand is it easy to turn? when assembling mine, I found the x clamps ( idler and motor ) were really stiff and not the correct width pulling on the threaded rod of the motor making it grind because of the pressure.by clack - General
Re: ATX power supply for Gen7 - 11 years ago
I just converted one! Usually if its a helpful one , it should be found on a label on the unit, if not try and find a website about it. Usually as its computer gear they like to boast the specs. overall watts does not really tell you the amps per rail as it depends on how efficient the unit is and how the power is distributed. I think 226W might be a little too low, I have a 500W that does 30Aby clack - General