Glad to see you've gotten your printer up and running, and that's a quite good owl considering it is printed at such a small size and is one of your first prints.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Glad to hear you have your machine assembled and almost printing, Wingnut. Looking forward to pics of your first printed part!by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Also be sure to unplug the power or unplug your fan before you do this, I blew the FET on my Ulitmaker while soldering on a cap to the fan while the power was on. Oops. Luckily they are cheap and it wasn't SMT so very easy to replace.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
The trick for better/steeper overhangs is small layer heights, min temps and as much cooling as you can manage. Can you link to an STL for that coupler, I'd like to try printing it to see how I can do.by Nyarlathotep - General
If you're having interference problems you may try twisting the stepper motor wire pairs (one twisted pair 1A+1B, and a separate twisted pair 2A+2 -- it's recommended anyways for stepper motors so won't hurt anything.by Nyarlathotep - Delta Machines
If you haven't already I'd swap X and Y motors (unplug power first!) to rule out a bad stepper.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
With regards to 8mm rods fitting into 608 bearings -- it may or may not work depending on both your rod and your bearings. Rod tolerance can be either +/- some diameter, oddly the cheaper stuff is typically specified with just a minus tolerance (e.g. 8mm -.05mm) and so if it is on the lower end of the tolerance range it works fine. Precision ground rod for example may be +- .01mm and may be an eby Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
I use plain clear Scotch 3M glue stick, like this : For large parts by itself it still won't stop curling with PLA, or at least I've never gotten it to. I've had parts stick perfectly well but still curl when peeled off. Heated bed fixes this, though. I've also used plain PVA glue on glass, diluted with about 10 parts water 1 part glue and allowed to dry, best with a heated bed otherwise you hby Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Hmm, looks like you printed these lying flat - meaning the near side in your image flipped down onto the build surface? They print best upright, in the orientation your printer shows.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
No worries, hope they work out for you. Looking forward to seeing your first print!by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Looks nice, I am curious to see how those shafts work out. How much did they cost?by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Split shaft collars might be usable in place of clips, but I don't know that there's room in the machine to install them. mfeherpataky Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The clips on the rods are a great addition, but no > lathe in my small workshop makes it difficult to > implement. > > I have been running Tantillus on HTD 3mm belts > with greatby Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
You can use hot tap water on PLA parts to soften them a bit and allow some flex, to fit things together that are otherwise too snug. It also causes the plastic to expand somewhat so better to try this with parts that fit on the outside of something else. This works great also for working loose things like Emmett's Gear Bearing that are articulated but printed in one piece. A good temp to try is ~by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Are these acceptable? They will need some cleanup along the bottom of the part and along the bearing groove, but should otherwise be serviceable. I'll run the extruder gears tonight at a higher quality setting. Looks like I need to tear down my printer and fix the Z-axis wobble...by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Wingnut, let me know what parts you need re-printed and I'll see about finding some time in the near future.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Which part is slic3r crashing on ? Some of the STLs from GitHub are not manifold, you can however run them through Netfabb Cloud to clean them up. This worked on everything for me except the top electronics mount, which I fixed in SketchUp and uploaded back on page 1 of this thread.by Nyarlathotep - Delta Machines
Print times sound reasonable, Sublime. I printed a set for lasercut machine in basically a weekend printing on 2 machines (Ultimaker, Prusa). I print a lot faster now though, I wonder how quickly I could bang out a set... hmm!by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Those are support structures that need to be removed anyways, take another look at the build guide : I may have some other parts, I'll check and get back to you.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
It would be best to knock the rust off before assembly, some 0000 steel wool or fine Scotch-Brite will do the job. Clean the rod well and wipe it with some light oil or grease, the common hardware store 3-in-1 oil is good or if you don't have that use some Vaseline (I use a 1:1 mixture of the two for a thinner grease). If the rust is heavy you can make an easier job of it by driving the rod withby Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Those parts look pretty rough. While they may be serviceable, but I certainly wouldn't feel comfortable to give away -- much less sell -- parts that looked like that. If you need XY gears, PM me your address and I'll drop a set in the mail for you. I have an extra set that I printed in natural PLA that I've no use for.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Looks great, are you planning to publish the parts when you're done? I'm sure folks would find it quite useful as 8mm rod & bearings are quite a bit more common than 6mm.by Nyarlathotep - Delta Machines
If you have no lathe to cut a groove for e-clips, it may be possible to use shaft collars instead. Something like McMaster # 9506T4 or similar, they're available from a variety of suppliers.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Looks nice, I'm interested to see how those UHMW bushings turn out.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
Tantillus uses a standard J-Head, which according to the wiki uses a 5.6 or 6.8 ohm, 5W, 1% axial resistor. They use a size C drill bit to bore the heater mount hole which is .242" or 6.15mm, and from the DigiKey link above, the specific resistor supplied with at least some J-Head hotends is : Size / Dimension 0.217" Dia x 0.500" L (5.50mm x 12.70mm) HTH!by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
SD card is a really nice feature, I wouldn't skip it if I had any way at all to make it work.by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus
It is not difficult to get good STLs out of Blender, problem is when you start with a bad mesh in Sketchup you will get bad STLs out. Same thing with Blender or any other tool if you create a bad model, changing it to a different format does not fix the problems. Anyways back on topic, I note that Rich has now posted Part 2 of his 3DR blog postings, which should help out those who have gotten tby Nyarlathotep - General
As a few mentioned already, check the resistance across the leads going to the heatbed. It should be >1 ohm -- the few I've measured have been around 1.2-1.5 ohm. 0 ohm would indicate a short. On the other hand if you have more than say 3-5 ohm then it could also indicate a problem or bad heat bed.by Nyarlathotep - General
I don't know of a detailed guide but it's basically a matter of sourcing the necessary parts and assembling, same as any printer... you should be able to print all the necessary parts for a Rostock-variant on your Prusa.by Nyarlathotep - Delta Machines
Perhaps they have other materials in 6mm thickness? Polycarbonate or Dibond come to mind, I don't know if any Tantillus has been made from those but no reason it shouldn't work (as far as I know).by Nyarlathotep - Tantillus