You are correct dougal1957. I should have started with the newest firmware. The reason I didn't do it is hat there are so many new parameters that I didn't have at the moment. I have now installed V1.19 and used dc42's configuration guide. That solved the problem with the motors and end stop once I learned to change the parameters in question.by nof - Ormerod
Hello! I have upgraded my Ormerod 1 with a new Duet 0.85 and installed the firmware v. 1.09. The SD card got the files from the same downloadf as the firmware. I'm using the sys-Ormerod-1 files. The web-interface is working. All motors are connected the same way. X-movements are correct and X-homing works. Z-movements are opposite was it should be, I can change the motors connection to solve thisby nof - Ormerod
I will try that. Thank you! /Nils-Olovby nof - General
Hello! I have just bought and assembled a K200 delta printer. Unfortunately I have some problems and need to get in contact with knowledgeable people. I found a couple of topics on this forum and the topics should really have been separate topics in a thread for just those printers. I suggests that there will be a K200/K280 thread started. Thanks in advance Nils-Olovby nof - General
Hello! I managed to break my Ormerod some time ago, It fell to the floor. I had to replace the Duet board a newer one. When I try to connect it I have problem with the wiring of the old proximity sensor. I have tried to search for instruction. Do anyone know where to find information I need?by nof - Ormerod
Most manufacturers specify the environment parameters for their products to give a problem free operation. The manufacturers of filament don't mention it at all. They say they dry it and seal the spools in plastic bags with or without silica-gel. I can understand the precautions because during the transport the environment could be very different from time to time. Have anyone seen any figures onby nof - General
dc42. Why not find an available output pin on the duet board and use it to switch the ir-transmitter on and off. Measure the signal from the receiver when on and off. calculate the difference and use it for the distance to the bed. Maybe the output of the controller can source/sink enough current so you dont need an extra transistor to drive the ir-transmitter?by nof - Ormerod
Thank you for your information. I'm aware of the polarity is important. There is another problem with the sensor. The connector will not go all the way on the pins. The recess in the X-carriage is to small If I loosen the upper screw that holds the sensor I can get it on as it should but when I tighten the screw and run the X-homing it will eventually slid of the pins. I will not be able to workby nof - Ormerod
There are probably more places where you could fit a printer.You got me to start thinking about it. And I'm sure more than me! About "deadly" fumes: I think there will eventually come usable material for printing that don't smell and are not harmful, wait and see.by nof - General
Thank you Markus. I put the reflective tape on the right place and now the homing works.by nof - Ormerod
I'm a little bit confused. Is the proximity sensor for both X and Z? There are two holes that seems to be 'leftover' from a micro-switch that wasn't mounted (on the X-axis assembly near the motor.). Or might be I have forgotten to mount something there. Anyway when I try to home X the end is reached and the motor is buzzing. Any help? I have tried to put a bit of reflecting folie but that don't hby nof - Ormerod
I could write to and read the card when connected to the computer but Duet couldn't read it. It seems that the Arduino is less tolerant then most computer is to read (and probably write). I suggest that RepRapPro finds another card brand to send with the printer.by nof - Ormerod
I tried the Duet before I connected it to the printer and when I connected the Ethernet cable the duet didn't notice it. After restarting Duet the connection worked.by nof - Ormerod
I have been looking at manual pick-and-place machines. There are a lot of them on YouTube. I have got some ideas from that and designed one myself. It will have a lot of 3d-printed parts, some rods with linear bearings. I will use a USB microscope and a handhold pick-and-place tool I have ordered from ebay. So far I am just investigating. Maybe I will scale it down a bit to make it less complicatby nof - Pick-and-Place Electronic Assembly (and robots!)
You will certainly need to make a small hot-end. That might be useful for many other printers in the future. I think you need to have the feeder and hotend separated, you don't mention it but that will make the 'pen' much smaller. For cooling why not try some version of water cooling? Someone in this forum had made a dual feed watercooled printhead. That will make a twopart solution: one is the hby nof - General
You do have a good idea! If you melt plasic in a pot you dont need to shred the plastic material firs, just put in all bad prints you have. To get rid of bubbles in the melted plastic you should first lower the pressure, that will also suck out all moist. after that put on pressure to get the plastic thru an extruder. It would be rather easy to get good control of the two major parameters, temperby nof - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Core: Som jag skrev så har jag jagat PLA. Andra delar är inte aktuella just nu eftersom jag beställt en RepRapPro Ormerod. Den skall enligt specen vara komplett med allt som behövs. Jag har inte frågat på Engelska delen av forumet än (det är svårt att hitta rätt plats att fråga på, men jag hittar nog någon snart). Jag kommer nog att beställa ett par rullar från dem och se vad frakten blir mm. Ebaby nof - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
I väntan på att börja skruva ihop min 3d-printer som kommer imorgon så har jag delat min tid med att konstruera delar att skriva ut och leta efter PLA till skrivaren. Jag hittade RepRapWorld.com. Har ni några erfarenheter av dem?by nof - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
Hello! Where do you buy bulk filament? I'm new to 3d-printing and need to get a lot of filament in a few months. Have you tried the things used to unwinding yarn? My mother has left one (or two) for me and my daughter have some too.by nof - General
Makeme has a good point. The area of the 3mm filament is aproximatly three times bigger than the 1.75 mm filament. That means you need three times more force to push the 3mm into the printhead. I guess that make the feeder mechanism easier to design. For the same volume to print you need to use three times more thread if you measure by the length and that might make it easier to finetune the feedby nof - General
But a peristatic pump fed with the paste/clay under pressure will give good control of the flow if you will use a stepper motor for the pump.by nof - Paste Extrusion Working Group
Thank you MattMoses for the information. As usual someone had already thought of things I find interesting and useful. This is a good thing because it will bring development forward. I will read the information in the links you provided and I hope I will manage to print my own electronic designs eventually.by nof - General
Hello! I'm new here and are still waiting for the delivery of my Ormerod. I have followed this topic and I think there is too many different things discussed in this one topic. Why not split the questions in separate topics for example one topic for each of the different subtopics in the Ormerod assembly documentation? At least for topics that are related to building and testing the Ormerod. Rby nof - Ormerod
If we can find a material that is a good electric conductor and is possible to use in a 3d printer we can use that to form electric conductors when printing an object. The materials we so far is using is insulators. And with the increasing number of RepRap printer with more than one print head we could use one for the base (insulating material) and one for the conducting material. A third head caby nof - General