Now those slicing softwares slices at the same layer height for both extruders' parts (if you have two/more) and both perimeters and infills of a model. Why don't they slice perimeters and infills separately, and then different layer heights are applicable of perimeters and infills. Then I would use 1mm nozzle or something like that on one extruder, and 0.1 nozzle on the other extruder, and whenby jpan - General
QuoteA2 Most of your post doesn't make sense to me, please reiterate your problem. Sorry but I'm not a native English speaker. I'll do as best as I could to write my posts. My extruder is MK8. (something like this: I use thermistor though) I have token my nozzle off and found that there are something in it and I can't remove it. I tried to heat the nozzle up and sort of dig it with an iron wby jpan - Printing
I'm printing in PLA at 195c or around, but today my extruder doesn't extrude. It kind of went back sometimes when it extrude unless I press the filament at the same time. The other times it works ok but it extrude less than it is supposed to do even when I press it by hand. Seems like a lot of people have experienced the same thing. But I'm not sure what to do with mine... Looking for advices,by jpan - Printing
OK, The beep was actually coming from the fan... Sorry for any confusionby jpan - General
When I was printing today, one of the LEDs on the ramps 1.4 board was lit up and I heard a kind of beep sound. When I unplugged the USB cable to my computer it stopped. It wouldn't stop whether the PSU is off or not though. Is that a kind of warning? I'm nervous now. Thanks. EDIT: I think the LED that was lit up was LED3.by jpan - General
Forget about dual extruding. I just disassembled one of the extruders since the firmware didn't do a good job controlling two extruders at the same time. It did with a single extruder though. Still MK8 all metal extruder.by jpan - For Sale
Now the problem has changed. I plugged the thermistor for the second extruder in to the pins for the heat bed before. Still my z-motors are abnormal. In the same speed I usually use with Sprinter firmware, the z-axis motors seemed to stuck somehow. They have sort of beep noise when they run more than 1mm a time. Why would that happen? BTW, ramps1.4+ arduino combination is my electronics.by jpan - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Yes I did. My problem is pretty much like problems in these three posts. But they didn't have any real solution:by jpan - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Update: It's now upgraded to dual extruding. The upgrade cost me $130. All metal MK8. I found that Z Rod Constraints is not helpful at all. I got another mod that solved Z-WOBBLE perfectly. See the heart gears that I just printed: About 2 lbs of filament will be included.by jpan - For Sale
I recently installed dual extruders on my Mendel. Therefore I'd have to switch from old Sprinter to Marlin or some other firmwares. I downloaded marlin from reprap wiki. Then after some configuration I uploaded it. Now here's what happened: I am able to home all the axis, but I'm not able to move them in any way else. By which I mean if I press home for any axis, It will move nicely. But If I askby jpan - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Switched to 1.75, problem solved (95%, let's say it's solved) Thank you to everybody who helped. Will post some pictures of newest prints later. This is really a helpful community. Thank you! Only thing bad about this experience is the bucks for the fried electronics...... Will learn from it.by jpan - Printing
It's from a seller on ebay. I got a spool for about $24/kg. Then I got filament from printrbot for forty something dollars for each spool including shipping.by jpan - General
Quotewaitaki Quotejpan I have got filament from two different vendors. I always get white PLA and print them with a constant configuration. I noticed one difference: The filament I got from the first vendor is less reflecting, or more dull-looking, both before and after being printed, while the filament I got from the second vendor is a tiny bit more transparent, and more reflecting, and looks moby jpan - General
I have got filament from two different vendors. I always get white PLA and print them with a constant configuration. I noticed one difference: The filament I got from the first vendor is less reflecting, or more dull-looking, both before and after being printed, while the filament I got from the second vendor is a tiny bit more transparent, and more reflecting, and looks more watery. I personallyby jpan - General
Thanks for your advice., but I don't even think that matters too much. I am sure that the pulley is the in the right size(GT2). I'll see what would happen after I switch to 1.75 filament. the new extruder and filament are already ordered and shipped so to wait is the only thing that I could do now.by jpan - Printing
Sprinter is the firmware that i am using.by jpan - General
Well I do have sketchup and rhinoceros on my computer and tried to learn them myself once. But obviously I fail, or I might not have noticed openCAD....by jpan - OpenSCAD
Check me newest print out, plz I now find that my wobble/banding is no in any pattern most of the time. My guess of the root of the problem is the tension of the 3mm filament. When the position of the hot end changes(sort of due to my printer's construction), the tension (both amount and direction) of the filament also changes. Therefore my next step, hopefully the last step, is to switch myby jpan - Printing
I haven't thought about that, might be a good idea. I have browsed on thingiverse and found something similar. I thing I missed a big problem. When the x-axis rise to a certain point the extruder will hit the beams on the top. I think I'll just take their plans instead of making my own......by jpan - General
It actually was my originally plan to just move all the bearings and nuts beneath the x-axis, but I have to consider the printability. It would definitely be great to keep all the bearings. I'm still brainstorming anyways, hope I will come up with something better.by jpan - General
I am considering a expanding of the maximum of the z-axis on my Mendel i2(which will make it's z from 8 (my machine's "unique" flaw, usually i2s have 10cm)) to as long as 15cm. I might need to eliminate one of the bearings on each side of z-axis. They're not those lengthened ones, so I'm wondering if it will effect the printing quality? To be specific, z-wobble or so. (I've already installed a usby jpan - General
Thank you! That's all I want/need to knowby jpan - General
Ok, still I have a question: When you auto tune with M303, do you randomly set temperature and round times? Thanksby jpan - General
I didn't use PID when I was using Sprinter, and the printer seemed fine. I know how to auto tune now anyways. Will give it a try. PID Tuning is an easy tutorial.by jpan - General
OK, so I copied and replaced with the codes in ledvinap's quote, then I commented "#define PIDTEMP" to unable PID. Now it could be compiled. I decided not to use PID, because in the link NewPerfection gave me I found "M303 S C" and think it is the g-code to get a proper value, but I don't know what "cycles" is, and I won't heat the hot end up with out proper value, for safety. Anyways, if unablby jpan - General
I didn't save after messing around, that's one thing I knew to do. The problem is "which one to leave" or "how to determine it by myself" cuz I am using neither of those hot ends listed. Will it matter if the PID values are wrong? There were some choices, and I don't know which one should I use. It says "//Ultimaker ...... // Makergear ...... // Mendel Parts V9 on 12V ...... " in front of eacby jpan - General