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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Z banding (Possibly extruder problem) - 7 years ago
Hey, guys I forgot to check the forums for awhile over the holidays and saw that I had some replies. I don't actually have a heated bed. Sorry, I forgot to mention that in the first post. I print Esun PLA at 195°C. I was running PID for the hotend but never did the Marlin autotuning. I just did the autotuning today and it took away the artifact in the cylinder (or seemingly lessened it) but the aby jtoombs - Printing
Z banding (Possibly extruder problem) - 7 years ago
Hey, everybody. I just remodeled my z-axis on my CoreXY machine making it a lot stiffer. I have been having trouble removing an artifact from all of my prints. First, I got the classic thread pitch banding which aligned perfectly with my 1/4" ACME lead screw. This shows the thread banding on the left and something I cant' figure out on the right. The same problem exists in both prints. It is soby jtoombs - Printing
Re: PLA Mold for Silicone - 9 years ago
That's pretty nice Dentist. It didn't stick at all to the ABS? That's what worries me.by jtoombs - General
Re: PLA Mold for Silicone - 9 years ago
I will probably just make a little cylinder mold with spots to embed fasteners (screws or nuts) on each end of it. This would give me a good method for mounting it to parts. Thanks for the help Downunder!by jtoombs - General
PLA Mold for Silicone - 9 years ago
Hey everyone. Just a quick question. Has anyone ever experimented with making molds for silicone? I want to make some vibration dampeners out of some silicone. I don't want the silicone to stick to the PLA I will use though. Thanks. JTTby jtoombs - General
Re: Any cons to using all bushings instead of bearings? - 9 years ago
Jessica, I have experience with bushings on my CoreXY machine. They work nicely on the X and Y stage which is interconnected similarly to that of the Ultimaker which you are correct in saying that it uses bushings. As for the Z axis, I believe the Ultimaker uses linear bearings(may not be correct so don't quote me). I tried bushings on my Z stage and they caused a lot of chatter like Digital Dentby jtoombs - General
Re: Optimal Layer height - 9 years ago
Go here and look for the optimal layer height. You're probably safe with a target height of anything from .15 or maybe lower to about .3mm.by jtoombs - Printing
Re: Elephant's Foot - 9 years ago
Alan, I don't believe it is a problem with slicing as it happens on all of my prints. But I bet you are right on the sticking. Now that I think about I did use bushings on the Z axis stage. I think will redesign my stage to fit some LM10UUs. Maybe they will be smoother than the bushings and allow the stage to slide without sticking or jumping. I will keep you updated. Thanks.by jtoombs - Printing
Re: Elephant's Foot - 9 years ago
I have seen cases where it tapers like you said Tazz but I have never seen anything that is stepped like this. I have a feeling that is back lash in my Z-Stage. But at the same time when I first finished my machine I saw very dramatic backlash(so much so I could see that the Z rod was spinning and the stage was just sitting for a brief moment while the rod caught up with it) and I made an anti-baby jtoombs - Printing
Elephant's Foot - 9 years ago
Hello everyone. I have been having some issues with the about the first 8 layers of my prints. The first layer looks normal and then it seems like it squishes down the next several layers until about 8 layers up it seems to work itself back to normal. This results in almost a step from the bottom squished layers to the normal layers. It seems to be a severe case of elephant's foot. I have triedby jtoombs - Printing
Re: Building Core XY Printer: need help deciding on what built - 9 years ago
First, you should look on Thingiverse for examples of the CoreXY setup. Here are a number of good links: Link 1, Link 2, Link 3, Link 4, Link 5. Most of these links are fairly similar. Some don't have parts lists but maybe they will expose you to more options so you can get a good feel of what you are looking for. I recently finished a build that I designed that was based mostly on the belt patby jtoombs - CoreXY Machines
Re: first layer infiil - 9 years ago
Yes, this could be your problem because if your printer thinks it is laying down a greater volume of filament than it actually is then you could see under infill problems. But it seems to me if that were the case then you would see a more consistent distribution of thinner infill lines and gaps between those lines than your picture shows especially since that is a pretty large difference betweenby jtoombs - Printing
Re: Printing Issue "5mm Calibration Cube Steps" - 9 years ago
+1 for the cooling and slowing down. If you already have cooling add more. It appears you are using PLA. PLA needs lots of cooling especially on these small area layers. If you watch as the printer lies down the layers on the top cube you can probably see the hotend ever so slightly dragging the layer underneath around as it prints. This is a sign you should increase your layer minimum time limitby jtoombs - Printing
Reduce Bed Shake - 9 years ago
I have been having problems with my bed shaking during printing. I have seen this problem come up on the Ultimaker forums and have heard of some solutions that seem to be effective but haven't seen many pictures. 1. Adding weight to the build platform 2. Making the z axis stage very rigid at the bearing block 3. Reducing accelerations Comments on these are much appreciated. I have tried to reby jtoombs - CoreXY Machines
Re: Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Not the most dazzling pictures of it but it is what it is... A couple of my machine and one of the Astrosyn type mount I managed to print up. I am thinking about maybe trying standalone stepper drivers like the TB6560 stepper drivers. Anyone with experience? Comments on the pictures appreciated. JTTby jtoombs - General
Re: Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Yeah I just don't want to pay the extra cost for the G3D drivers. Did your grounding resistor 4 on the A4988 boards not work out? Or was that for another machine, Ohmarinus? I'll try to post a picture of my machine tonight. I'm still in the process of calibrating and such. I haven't gotten too many good prints yet. I also need to do some cable management. Also, I think I'm having a little Z backlby jtoombs - General
Re: Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Well, my order of sorbothane came in on Friday. I got my printer working but it was just super loud. So I printed out some NEMA 23 sized astrosyn style dampers and cut a circle of the sorbothane material to put in between the parts. It has made a big difference at all speeds. I do have another problem though. The vibrations are still travelling through the belt to my X carriage and making the cooby jtoombs - General
Re: Soldering resistor onto A4988's ROSC pin - 9 years ago
Ohmarinus, what is the coil resistance in your stepper motors? I read in the comments on the page Nophead wrote about this mod that this only works with low resistance motors. His were 1.65 ohms. Do you have low resistance coils?by jtoombs - General
Re: Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Looks like the links to your videos don't work. I think the added challenge of making it a level-able bed is what makes 3D printer beds so prone to rattling. That's why I wanted to have the bed only move in the Z axis. Anyway... I will get my sound dampening sorbothane tomorrow and will hopefully have results to post by tomorrow night. JTTby jtoombs - General
Re: Soldering resistor onto A4988's ROSC pin - 9 years ago
+1 for finding the answer. I would love to see how this is done. This could be very useful if it's effective and easy to implement.by jtoombs - General
Re: Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Zavashier, I am using NEMA 23's because I got them for free. Plain and simple. Four of the same type of motor in great condition. They were just going to be thrown out until my keen eye for printer parts spotted them. So, naturally, I thought I would give it a try. I do realize that the bigger motor doesn't really benefit me in any way at this scale but like I said I wanted to at least try. Also,by jtoombs - General
Re: Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Hey guys. Thanks for those links to the printed Astrosyns. Tjb1 and Imyz, I would really appreciate it if you could post a NEMA 23 sized part on Thingiverse etc. I bought a sheet of anti-vibration rubber called sorbothane. I don't know if anyone has used it but I will post results when I get it. Maybe I could put it in between the two separated plates of the Astrosyn style dampers. Regarding thby jtoombs - General
Re: Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Thanks for the quick responses guys. I currently have my entire printer sitting on a 1" thick sheet of styrofoam. This worked very well for quieting my last printer but doesn't seem to have much of an effect on this one. Before putting the motors on the printer I set them on a piece of this styrofoam and tested the noise level compared to them sitting directly on the table the printer is on. Therby jtoombs - General
Best material to reduce those pesky vibrations - 9 years ago
Hello. I just completed a CoreXY build that uses NEMA 23's everywhere but the extruder. The motors run fine but they have a lot of vibration that gets put directly into the frame and make any movement very loud. I am looking for some materials people have had success with that dampen these vibrations. I have seen cork and these Astrosyn dampers. Also, I came across this design and was wondering iby jtoombs - General
Re: Single axis broken? - 9 years ago
I solved it guys but thanks for replies anyway. It seems that my RAMPS shield was not firmly press into the Arduino board. So I guess there was a lack of connection on a few pins but the rest of the board was working. Everything is back to normal now.by jtoombs - RAMPS Electronics
Single axis broken? - 9 years ago
Has anyone ever had a single axis break on their RAMPS 1.4 board? My Y axis spot for the driver seems to have broken. I can put a working driver in the Y axis driver spot and nothing happens. Then I can take that same driver out and move it to the X axis spot and it works fine. This is using the same motor also. And all of the driver switching is happening without the power on. Help! JTTby jtoombs - RAMPS Electronics
Re: RobotDigg - 9 years ago
Maybe stating the obvious but, I purchased small things likes bearings, pulleys, belt, and bushings and the shipping was relatively cheap. About $8 I think. I thought this was more than acceptable since the price of their hardware is so much less than any other supplier I could find with the same products. JTTby jtoombs - General
Re: Design Options CoreXY - 9 years ago
Yeah... that's pretty much what I thought when I first thought of this idea. There really is no need to make the extruder move in all axes. Just small Z steps of the bed for layers isn't going to effect the print that much. None the less I still think the idea is cool! The difficulties of implementing this concept far outweigh the potential benefits ( if there really are any). Liked you last seby jtoombs - CoreXY Machines
Re: Design Options CoreXY - 9 years ago
I had an idea on a way to keep all motors stationary and still have the extruder move in X, Y, and Z. It's not quite the CoreXYZ like in the other post in this section but it's close. I don't know if it has been done before but I think it's definitely doable but probably not practical. What if you had smooth rod shaped like a hex driver (or something along those lines) attached to the X and Y motby jtoombs - CoreXY Machines
Re: RobotDigg - 9 years ago
I made about a $35 purchase from Robotdigg about two months ago. It was actually for a CoreXY machine also. I didn't buy quite as much as Ohmarinus and it was all just mechanical stuff and hardware. No electronics so I can't say anything about their electronics. I bought a bunch of GT2 pulleys some 5mm and some 6.25mm and a few meters of GT2 belt. The pulleys were very well machined and high qualby jtoombs - General