Turn off Gap filling and that will reduce a lot of traveling around... It's mostly not needed for most prints anyway.by 3DogNate - Slic3r
The Hadron has it's own issues. (Z design actually kinda sucks, needs an anti wobble mod and the way the X attaches to the z makes it a pain to get perfect without making a jig.) The best results I have seen have either been from printers where the Bed is the Z axis, (Replicator2, Ultimaker, Solidoodle,) or a Delta where the bed makes no movement. Have you ruled out a Delta? the Orion Kit at Seby 3DogNate - General
QuoteRad Racer I am not sure of Werner's plans to release parts or machines. I do know there was discussion about starting a users group.....but again I do not have any updates or details. Many have said they are intimidated by the end effector bends and dumples. If you look at my buildlog photos you can see I did it with some basic tools (a brake, angle finder and a simple press) no problem.by 3DogNate - General
Quotebernieke I'm about to order a bulldog XL + E3D hotend for 3mm filament (ABS and PLA) to replace a badly printed wade's extruder and pre-groovemount J-head. Since we're now a full two months later, do any of you guys having bought a bulldog regret it? Do you have any advice for me? Looking at the combo with the E3D, could anyone tell me if I'm supposed to have both the bulldog fan and the Eby 3DogNate - General
I added this to thingiverse the other day to address the fit of the E3D in the bulldog.by 3DogNate - Printing
I picked up some Taulman Bridge at the Midwest RepRap Festival on Saturday. I hope to try it out tonight.by 3DogNate - General
Quotemappler This weekend we had the opportunity to attend a local Maker Fair. Many 3D printers were on display, many of which were MendalMax 2's or derivatives of that design. I can see why we may ultimately want an MM2. However, I think for the first version the kids build I was even more convinced the Prusa i3 is a good place to start. They are interested not just in the novelty of things,by 3DogNate - General
We came from Bloomington, IL (3hr 45min drive) You?by 3DogNate - General
anyone... yoohooo... is this thing on?by 3DogNate - General
QuoteSteve Farling 3DogNate, Were you guys all at your own table building your printers? If so, I did stop for a minute and watch, but didn't talk. It would have been cool if everyone that is on the forum and was there had a name tag with user name, and real name. Mine's easy, as it's the same! Sadly, I don't know very many people on here yet. But I eventually will!!! Steve No we were on the otby 3DogNate - General
QuoteSteve Farling The Wife and I took a 2hr drive and attended the Midwest RepRap Fest 2014 yesterday (sat), and what a great time it was!!!! I was there primarily to decide whether to purchase a SeeMeCNC Rostock Max kit, or build my own version of the BerryBot. What was really cool, Rad Racer was there with his version of the BerryBot. I got to see it in action and talk a little about it. Waynby 3DogNate - General
QuoteREPRAP SQUAD As far as ive ever known makergeeks has guaranteed filament as well as free shipping. If you're not happy I would email as they have been very helpful to me. I may need to... this stuff just turns to snot in acetone.... more than 24 hours and just a glob in a jar.by 3DogNate - General
QuoteNewPerfection Quote3DogNateOpenSCAD is quite archaic... (Usable for the most basic of things and being able to use variables for defining dimensions of features is cool... I'm not bagging on it. But beautifully designed parts is not what OpenSCAD is being touted for... It's free and aproachable by those that fear or have no desire for learning a real CAD package. I think you'll find some peoby 3DogNate - General
I just bought some MakerGeek's ABS (Blue Gray) I tried printing with it yesterday for the first time... I cannot get this sh-t to stick well to anything... Glass w/ ABS Juice, @110c , Glass w/ Kapton @ 120, Glass w/Kapton+Abs Juice @110, Glass w/ Hairspray, Glass w/ 50/50 PVA... Glass/kapton/ABS juice was the best of the bunch but still had some lift...by 3DogNate - General
I have an Panucatt Azteeg X3 controller w/ expansion board for my Ord Bot Hadron... I would potentially like to leverage to Thermocouple inputs that are available but there is no documentation on exactly how to implement it in firmware... to actually get it to work... I assume that a standard K-Type is appropriate. Anyone here already done this so that I can leverage your experience?by 3DogNate - General
QuoteRP Iron Man Yeah, newer controller boards are starting to support thermocouples. Later on, will try to offer thermocouples as an optional add on, with an additional optional add on of an extension board for people who do not have thermocouple capability built in to their board. Eric I've got a Panucatt Azteeg X3 controller with the expansion board. It supports thermocouples, but there's zby 3DogNate - General
Quote3DogNate I'm onthe fence... it's a 5 hr drive... and a blown weekend for the wife. I have at least one, perhaps 2 buddies that are planning to go. Looks like I'm coming.... Probably will bring my printer and see about getting some tuning advice... may bring my E3D hot end and see if I can get some help getting good results with it.by 3DogNate - General
Quoteddseeker Am I the only one that gets flashbacks of the 80's when they see openscad Reminds me of my first foray into computer graphics and 3D modeling / raytracing using POVray... POVray models were built using CSG just like on OpenSCAD... I've moved onto real modeling programs like Rhino3D, Alibre, Inventor, 3DS and most recently BobCAD... ( Have a CNC Mill and a Router (off and on... whenby 3DogNate - General
Quotejkoljo Try a reamer. A reamer, oil, slow rpm and a consistent feed will make a much higher polish than a compound in stainless. I polish Aluminum and stainless performance motorcycle parts frequently.... stainless takes considerable effort to polish to a mirror finish.... Valve lapping compound will only create an even satin finish... (a nice finish, but not a mirror finish..) The best wayby 3DogNate - General
QuoteA2 @3DogNate: Did the heat break bend while you disassembled the hot end while it was cold. I didn't find a reference in the E3D assembly instructions of how to disassemble the hot end, can some one share there experience. I've designed tooling for hot plate fusion welding of plastics, and for me it's easier to disassemble if it's on the warm side. To help reduce the torque to unscrew theby 3DogNate - General
Quotegreenman100 Quote3DogNateI did get a response from E3D they asked about the filament path. Which with the bulldog there is no more than a mm or so anywhere that the filament is unsupported to allow for a flex or bind in the path... Didn't you bore/tap the heatsink for a bowden connector? That would leave many millimeters unsupported. No, the tapped portion has a length of Teflon tube to enby 3DogNate - General
Quotejzatopa 3DogNate I am in the middle of building a printer and plan on using the same combination of extruder and E3D except I will be using the bulldogXL. How did you account for the size mismatch between the e3D and bulldog mount? Did you use a metal shim or something else? I skimmed your posts and didn't see if you explained that yet. I see you have quite a lot of fans on your print hby 3DogNate - General
Quoteplexus Quote3DogNate No, I'll not go to that length... I need to be able to trust the people I buy from to handle any quality control issues... They should not be conducting business if they can't control a thing like that. My personal feeling is that you should correspond with E3D exclusively and stop wasting our time on this forum since you are unwilling to try anything we suggest and ultby 3DogNate - General
QuoteA2 Did you disassembled the hot end while it was cold. Assembled cold then heated up and torqued the nozzle down tight... Just as the E3D instructions stated QuoteA2 That's interesting because bruce356 believes his filament jamming might be due to the finish on the bore of the barrel. If you're able, take a picture of the barrel finish of both heat breaks, or try to quantify the surface fby 3DogNate - General
QuoteA2 Correct me if I have misinterpreted you, but you were the cause of the first hot end failure (bent heat break), and the bent heat break caused the filament to jam, is this correct. If this is the case, lets assume that you are the cause of the second failure, and conduct a test to determine if the heat break was bent again. There is an assumption that the bore of the barrel should be stby 3DogNate - General
Quotethejollygrimreaper Quote3DogNate Geezz.... I'm ashamed to be referred to as a geek sometimes. Back to my hot end... If you have something to contribute to having a successful E3D implementation I'm happy to hear it... otherwise... don't waste the thread space. are you running the bulldog XL or the bulldog lite? and which size of the filament? if you are running the buldog XL how much cby 3DogNate - General
Geezz.... I'm ashamed to be referred to as a geek sometimes. Back to my hot end... If you have something to contribute to having a successful E3D implementation I'm happy to hear it... otherwise... don't waste the thread space.by 3DogNate - General
whatever.... internet experts and assholes... same thing... Let's just say that the top fin of the heat sink is lower than the minimum temperature required for the heat sink to perform it's function at that point.by 3DogNate - General
Quotegreenman100 Quote3DogNatethat end of the heat sink is colder than the ambient temp in the room thanks to two fans blowing on the heat sink.,.. so it's irrelevant to my filament jamming up. This is exciting, you have broken the laws of thermodynamics! Huh??? are you saying that if you blow a fan on a room temperature block of aluminum that it is impossible to cool it to below the ambient teby 3DogNate - General
Quotetjb1I can't open that right now but I know the one they released had a bigger opening to clear the heatsink so why would you need to modify one of the slats? Yes I printed the correct part that fits the E3D in Because when I got the E3D I did not have a functional hot end to print a new one... I had to modify the original mount and make a mod to the E3D Heat Sink to get that to work with thby 3DogNate - General