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Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Quotebrucehvn Can all of you with Omegas/Alphas show me how you mounted your y end stop? No matter what I try, it gets in the way of the bed moving all the way back. I saw Ralf's custom version in another thread with the super long switch arm, but I'm not sure what it's triggering on. Looks like it wouldn't be the plastic bed mounts. Bruce Mine is limited where its mounted. The best spot I cby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
ciutateivissa, You'll be pleased to know I just ordered the heated bed you have. I'm topping out at 78 degrees and I just don't feel like it's worth any more of my time messing around with the nichrome wire. The ABS just isn't sticking well enough yet. I believe another option would have been to order a 24v power supply and powered the heated bed that way, but if I'm spending money I'd ratherby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
All, I cut my nichrome wire in half and got the temp on the heated bed up to 75c pretty quickly today. I had to go to work though so I didn't get to punch it any higher. Each run of nichrome wire is about 2.7 ohms, using about 55 watts I believe. If I could do it over I would have bought the heated bed for sure, and still might. I just wanted to give this a try since I had already paid for it.by cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
ciutateivissa - No worries, like I said though if I could do it over, I would have gone with the bed you bought for sure. so much cleaner and way less hassle. Just checked the ohms on the wire and measured its length, looks like they threw some extra wire in there as well. measures at 5.8 ohms so it's making even less heat then I thought it should be. usarmyaircav - I'm not, I plan on givingby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Quoteciutateivissa cfy7, cutting the NiChrome wire into pieces will not chnage anthing, since the oveall resistance of the wire will not change! You would need more of it to gett more Watt out of it. Huh? That'll change everything. How would it not change if I run two pieces half the length in parallel? It'll have half the resistance. I think it's pretty clear that I wouldn't be cutting them inby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
I almost ordered that heated bed, but I really want to make this one work since I've already paid for it. Looks like I messed up when I made it. I should have cut the NiChrome into multiple pieces. Currently there is about 27 Watts of heating power by having it as one length. By cutting it into two five foot pieces I should have 110.6 watts total. That'll pull about 9 amps and I believe the rampby cfy7 - Reprappers
Heated bed..... More like luke warm bed.... Help? - 10 years ago
I've built an I3 and when I bought it I ordered the heated bed kit for it. This is how I assembled it: The heated bed takes about 10 minuted to get up to 30c. It can get up to about 35ish, but not much higher no matter how hot I set it. Under the NiChrome wire I've laid down muffler exhaust wrap to insulate it. It hasn't helped much. I'm trying to figure out if the bed can get any hotter theby cfy7 - Controllers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Just started printing with abs. I'm having trouble getting my heated bed over 40 degrees so I'm going to have to look into that. I might just swap it out for the one chula(forgot your name on here, sorry but I think that's close?) was talking about. Right now my bed has the glass plate on top, then the aluminum plate with the nichrome wire taped to the back of it. Under that there is insulatiby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Todd, Whoops, that's what I meant, the i3xl. When it comes down to print quality, I can't see them printing any different. My power supply is a 430 watt corsair from newegg. If you get a computer power supply make sure it's bronze rated or higher. All, I wanted to mount the LCD to the top of the frame but it turned out that the supplied cables for the smart controller were a bit too short.by cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Istale, Just like you I got pretty frustrated with the shipping speed. Give em a call though if you don't get an emailed response. They're pretty friendly when you get em on the phone and at least you'll get an idea of shipping time frame. In my case they were waiting on some hardware that was delayed. After my delay they actually paid for expedited shipping to make up for it. In my case they'vby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
usarmyaircav, My PC power supply claims it can handle 32 amps on the 12 volt rail. My heater bed doesn't draw anywhere near that much power, I did the math for the Nichrome wire, but I can't recall it off the top of my head. The thought with my bed is that the wire heats the aluminum top plate which helps even out the heat, which then heats the glass. I haven't done it yet but I have exhaust wraby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Solder em. The E3D has the ability to get a lot hotter that's why it uses crimps. The solder joints on the thermistor don't touch the heater block anyway. Yup, plenty of tape in my kit.by cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Yup every time. You make it sound like your rods are too short. The nut has to have something to bite into. If you have the black L shaped brackets you can make them so the corner is on the inside instead. That'll gain you some rod length. Mine were long enough and weren't a problem.by cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Yeah, it opens and closes but you have to unscrew it each time.by cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Yup, it clamps down on the filament and applies pressure pushing it into the hobbed bolt. A lot of other designs out there for em. Most use springs for the pressure. I'm assuming they left them out to keep costs down. So far its worked fine without springs, but I'm still working on moving over to the extruder that's made for the E3D. So yeah, just enough pressure. I screw the screws down and turby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: DIY Tech Shop: "i3xl - prusa i3" reviews - 10 years ago
I love your perfectly neat and organized machine. Also great spool holder. Currently I'm using a broom handle suspended between a shelf and a treadmill. Works pretty nice!by cfy7 - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends - 10 years ago
I had one of the bad ones as well from before they say they fixed them. Diytechshop sent a new one out on March18th and I got it today. It came first class mail. They gave me no hassle whatsoever about replacing it. It took a little over a week from when I first emailed them to get it. I've put it together and the tolerances are much better then my first one. The nozzle appears to seat fully inby cfy7 - General
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
That's the ramps board they sent you? Weird. I got one that looked just like that, same jumper colors and everything off of ebay cheap. The 2 ramps that diy has sent me were red with the diode installed. That's what one of mine looks like from diytechshop. That loose diode when installed will power your arduino.by cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
2.) I drilled a complete set of new holes. The ramps board was blocked by the smart controller though so I ended up ditching the mount completely. I also had it fall off a couple of times when the double sided tape gave out. I printed out a new mount for the arduino/ramps for an 80mm fan. It's much quieter as well. I mounted it by drilling 2 holes. I also printed off holders for the screen but thby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Printed this off for my wife as a late v day present. Printed it really fast with the E3D hotend. It's the heart from thingiverse. Almost no clean up on it, all the holes were great. It really came out great. The z layers are almost perfect. Only problem is that the small extruder gear self destructed while printing. It was a blue one from Diytechshop. Their black plastics are so much betteby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Nothing fancy with the tape. Just use the double sided to stick em on the drivers, but throw some kapton on the edges of the heat sinks so that if they do slip they'll be insulated and can't short out. Your motor wires are way different than mine, my motors only have 4 wires coming out in their wire bundles.by cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
Should be 5 sets of motor wires. I shaved the plastic connectors on mine so that they could both fit on the ramps board for the z axis. Personally I didn't trim mine since I wanted to keep em long incase I ever take it apart and use the motors on a different machine. I've seen they're using different motor wires and different connectors for their printers, so you could have a different setup. Miby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 layer shifting/drifting/tilted print - 10 years ago
Post your config file so we can take a look. Have you slowed down the jerk speed as well? Make sure the belts aren't too tight. I had shifting problems, and it was the jerk/acceleration settings.by cfy7 - Printing
Re: reprap discount smart controller - 10 years ago
The shutting down almost sounds like your power supply is overloading, or there is something still messed up with the firmware. My sd card wouldn't read in my setup yesterday, but everything else worked great. Turned out the cable coming from the reprap going to the ramps was loose.by cfy7 - Repetier
Re: Prusa I3x steppers not working - 10 years ago
Clog? That's no good. Are you still using the Diytechshop Marlin Config? If so, make sure you fix that thermistor setting in it. The temperature will be off if you don't fix that. I was running the little brass hotend closer to 190 - 200 with PLA Calibration - It doesn't look like you're pushing out enough plastic. Have you done what it says to do on this page? I was using pronterface but theby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3x steppers not working - 10 years ago
Did you try the things I said in my last post, do they move the way you tell them to? If It's moving the wrong way, the wires are most likely backward. Reverse the plug. Perhaps you can post another video showing you commanding it to move and where it actually is moving. The Marlin I downloaded from Diytechshop wasn't really fully setup for their printers, it has the wrong thermistor selected iby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3x steppers not working - 10 years ago
Your end stop is good. They're wired so that they're normally closed, and when contacted they go to open. Are your motors going the right way? You might have plugged them in backwards. When you try to home them , or go - they should be going towards the end stops. Are you using a good config file? I've posted a few config files in my build thread, perhaps one might help you out. (They're notby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3x steppers not working - 10 years ago
From the wiring guide, it looks like you ignore wire 2 and wire 5, so that's the second one in on both sides. Use a multi meter to tell what the pairs are. A pair will have some about 30ish ohms. (I think, could be more or less. If it's not a pair, it wont have any continuity.) One pair goes on 1a/1b the other goes on 2a/2b. I'd try 1 2 3 4 1 3 4 6 First, if that doesn't work I'd just turn tby cfy7 - Reprappers
Re: I3 Omega from Diytechshop - 10 years ago
The first attached file is my most recent config file setup for using an E3D with it. I bumped up the max temps, and selected the proper thermistor. I would not run this config with the little brass hotend. It could melt the PEEK. The second file is for their little brass hotend. It has the proper thermistor selected. Both files have a 190 x 190 print area to ensure nothing gets damaged. Expandby cfy7 - Reprappers