Bonjour, lucf. J'ai 15 ans, et je suis etudier Francais en l'ecole. Je ne utilise pas un traducteur. Mon francais, ce n'est pas bon. J'ai un BitsFromBytes Rapman 3.1 (bitsfrombytes.com). C'est tres bon!. J'habite a Hackettstown, New Jersey, USA. Je fais des pieces Mendel. Est'ce que vous voulez? Je vends le trousse pour vous, pas cher. E-mail moi a benbo231@by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Buback Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > But then again, that's $4/hr per machine. Botfarm, much? Now that's how we should do it. Someone could make a lot of money printing like that, I believe there are two mendel kit-producing Mendel Botfarms as of now... pricing the whole deal at around 900 dollars. But the real question is: How low can it go? As more printerby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
What I meant was that for the delta robot, there's 3 servos and one extruder motor. Having a BFB Rapman, I'm not considering the extruder motor now, but there are potentiometers in the servos, and they can be dialed exactly to where they need to go. In addition, a standard, run of the mill Arduino duemilnove can handle the 3 servos unmodded, maybe even off of batteries (though I won't be portableby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
There has been speculation about making alternate forms of robot to move the print head/bed. I have been considering using servomotors in a delta robot, as well as in an arm, eliminating the need for all the expensive stepper controller hardware, as well as making the motors themselves cheaper (servoes are cheaper then steppers, not to mention it will now get real-time feedback about its positionby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I can print you the printed parts for under $300 USD. The rest of the hardware should be findable on mcmastercarr.com or in your local hardware store. The electronics, well, for beginners such as myself, I reccomend BFB electronics from bitsfrombytes.com. People with more electronics experience then myself could pick up the official electronics for less money then the BFB electronics, which are aby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
We need an automated build platform for the mendel. Makerbot's blog has some stuff, as does the wiki. It's essentially a conveyor belt that we print on, with a heated bed underneath. Heated bed stops the warping (a big-ticket item on something with big print area, i.e the repraps) and when we're done printing, the conveyor just cycles until the part rolls right off the end. It lets us make thingby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I've got the bfb rampan...it's got a stepper-based extruder. But it uses an offset, angled screw in place of a pinch wheel.by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I've been trying the layer height thing, THere's no way to fix it in the code...so every time I start a print, I manually push up on the build platform. I was told by the BFB tech guy to up the build temp to 260, raft as well as print. THat's actually the default setting for BFB's ABS plastic. Testing the temperature raise now...I'm actually using the default BFB ABS 'profile' which is a set buncby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I have finally finished my BFB Rapman 3.1. Well, that's mostly true. anything bigger then a layer or two just peels off the platform. I'm using 230 degrees C for the raft, as well as the build itself, extruding at 40mm a sec in both cases. I use the build-cooling fan, along with my 1 extruder, but it's warping like crazy, and just detaching. Any suggestions to boost stickiness of the Makerbot.comby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Printed Parts for the mendel, the current most advanced model of Reprap, are on EBAY for a lot of money. McMaster.com has the steel tubes and Z screws for yout bot, and IDK where to get the electronic stuff. RRRF has the stepper motors, no? For small apps, buy a makerbot kit (full kit...) at Makerbot.com or maybe an Up! printer (I haven't tried it, but I heard it's good.) Both can do pretty goodby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
It may have been a stepper motor wiring fault, as I jiggled the extruder connecter and it doesn't click. It also doesn't seem to get as hot anymore though. Please, can I get a little help?by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I cracked the sparse layer of existing fire cement off, put on a more minimal layer, and am trying the silicone insulator. THe extruder does not function in print mode, meaning the gears spaz out and click, and it doesn't seem to get as hot. Suggestions?by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Got the pot rigged up, and it accepts it beautifully. For anyone wondering, radioshack sells these 100k Ohm pots that are awesome. It now melts and extrudes, well...to a degree. I warm it up for about 5-7 minutes, to the point where it's oozing a little bit of plastic, and that the plastic curls up around the fire cement. I then turn the pot up to around 107 C, where the machine then responds byby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I'm working on a R4 and an R5. R4 uses PVC for the body and is polar arm based, but still attached to that pesky Z plate, R5 is the arm based R4 except it's collapsable and it can print on any flat hard surface. Details to come...but don't bet on it.by ZaphodBeeblebrox - Huxley
That's what BFB told me to do as well, except with a potentiometer. It's a good idea though... as soon as I get cash I'll try it. I'd also appreciate solutions for the real thermistor though, if anyone has success or failure stories they'd like to share.by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Figured out a way to make a false thermistor, as a series of resistors in parallel. However, I need to know what temperature the rapman software says it's at when it starts to print, so that I can calculate the resistance for the second resistor. Or...I need to know the resistance of a thermistor at whatever that temperature is.by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I'm as broke as a smartcar in a road accident. I have about 34 cents to my name. I'm going for quick and dirty here... and do not TWSS me!by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
what about the thermistors? Those things are cruel and unusual punishment and impossible to work with!by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Well it's joining nichrome wire with normal stranded wire. And then I'm supposed to slide this siny heatproof sleeve over it. And I have tried those things. That was the most recent attempt. Also, if it doesn't work, would anyone be willing to buy an unfinished, but never used, mostly assembled Rapman 3.1 (soder Kit) with the most recent of the circuit boards attached for $950 (subject to changeby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Okay, the nichrome wire has broken, the thermistor has broken three times, the board fried, so this thing is getting to be a bit of a pain. I just want to get it working. Any tips for macgyvering a nichrome wire into a heat-resistant sleeve using a butt-splice and a pocketknife?by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
45 degrees w/o support braces. 44 to be safe.by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
No, arduino programming is no sweat, but I don't want to screw with a preprogrammed board. I've had some bad experiences, invilving quite a lot of magical blue smoke.by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Well, I can't exactly reprogram the board, it being a Rapman and all.by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
I am going to use the first schemat. For those of you with a printer involving a 200k thermistor, how much resistance does it give at full temperature? For those with a 100k, how much does yours read?by ZaphodBeeblebrox - General
Hi, I am very close to finishing a Rapman I recently purchased. However, due to my failure at electronics, I have since ripped the legs off of two innocent 200k thermistors. I am now just as broke as the thermistors, in terms of cash. I don't have the coin to order any more from England. However, I have come up with some ways to hack the data the thermistor would provide, until I get paid in a moby ZaphodBeeblebrox - General