Actually, I know the max feed rate values and I've calibrated the extruder extensively and know its max feed rate as well. It's the acceleration and jerk values that are always a mystery. I found some more reasonable settings in some of the example configs. I still get the output messages, but I'm not sure if I can actually get rid of them. My prints don't come out bad, but I've recently startby brucehvn - Firmware - Marlin
I didn't think to look at the examples folder for the configurations. I took the default values from the Marlin Configuration repo, but just used the ones from the release-2.1.2 branch. My problem is I'm not sure which name brand printer mine could be similar to. My printer started out as a Prusa i3a clone about 9 years ago, but has since been redesigned and rebuilt and there's not one piece oby brucehvn - Firmware - Marlin
I've just recently upgraded my Marlin Firmware to 2.1.x from 2.0.x and I'm trying to turn on Linear Advance again. I've got it on successfully and determined the K value based on the test print, but when I print some other object, I'm getting flooded with the messages "Acceleration Limited" and "eISR running at > 10kHz". I want to understand what the issues are and if this means that Linearby brucehvn - Firmware - Marlin
Ok, I gave up on trying to get the AD595 board working. I had a AD8495 board laying around I had forgotten about, but it turns out it appears it was bad as I could not get the proper readings from it, even just testing the ambient temperature without it being connected to the printer. I broke down and bought a MAX31855 board. I have a configuration that I believe is working with that except itby brucehvn - Controllers
I'm finally getting around to upgrading my motherboard to a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo board I've had laying around for a couple years. Seems something malfunctioned with my MKS-Gen-L board, so I need to upgrade ASAP. Everything I've seen looks pretty straightforward except for one thing. I have a Type K thermocouple using an E3D thermocouple board v1.0 which is based on the AD595 chip. I cannot findby brucehvn - Controllers
I'm getting pretty good at replacing those voltage regulators on the Mega board. Nice to have the skill, but boneheaded to keep blowing them up!by brucehvn - RAMPS Electronics
I need some creative ideas on putting together a new build plate. I rebuilt what was a prusa i3 variant (older type i3 design). The machine is working great, but I'm using the old build plate which is limiting me to 200x200mm. The new rebuild machine can easily do 300x200mm, so I'm putting together the new build plate. I got 2 sheets of aluminum, 12x8 inches which is about 304.8mm x 203.2mm.by brucehvn - General
Quotedtwrv6 over 5 years on my first sheet of Printbite 160C bedtemps haven't hurt it one bit. I'm pretty hard on it - I've used acetone, mek, alcohol, vinegar and scrape it with a razor blade on occasion to clean it. It just keeps working. Yeah, I'm probably about the same number of years. On original printbite, (not +). Have printed exclusively ABS meaning constantly heating/cooling the bby brucehvn - General
I've been working on trying to start using some of the latest features in Marlin. A few weeks ago, I implemented Junction Deviation and thought I had a pretty good value of .03 with an acceleration of 600. Yesterday, I started working on linear advance. I printed several iterations of the test pattern and settled on a K setting of 1.35. This is with LA 1.5 and using TPU filament. The printerby brucehvn - Firmware - Marlin
I ended up replacing mine with the thermocouple and thermocouple board from E3d. But I'm not actually that happy with it. The temperature still fluctuates by about +- 2C even when not heated and the printer is sitting idle. Seems thermocouple cables are very sensitive to magnetic fields and you can't run them tied to other things like your heater or fan wires which is difficult to maintain. Bby brucehvn - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, that's a pretty good explanation. In my case, I doubt frame flexing is an issue with the rebuild printer. On my old printer which was an i3 variant, I could see that could be an issue. It used a single metal plate for the vertical frame and of course that was held in place using threaded M8 rod and nuts. I always felt like that was not really stable. The rebuilt printer, though is very sby brucehvn - Printing
Thanks for the info. Kind of curious though how a heated chamber helped the problem of the filament breaking due to being wound too tight?by brucehvn - General
So, I see Anycubic filament advertised on eBay. From what I can tell Anycubic makes a lot of stuff from printers to print surfaces, and I guess filament. Does anyone have any experience with their ABS or PETG filament?by brucehvn - General
I've just rebuilt my i3 variant from the ground up using vslot and I'm in the process of doing calibrations. Both with the old and the new printer I'm having some issues with ringing. I've read many articles about adjusting acceleration and jerk settings, but I really want to understand how the ringing happens from a technical point of view. Let's say I'm talking about a top solid layer whereby brucehvn - Printing
I made my other print which was 2 1/2 hours with the old thermistor cable and didn't see any issues. I'm not ready to declare total victory yet, as I've seen cases where it could work for a print occasionally, so I'm going to print a few more to be sure.by brucehvn - RAMPS Electronics
Well, I was going to hold off on replying until I did another print later today, but last night I did 2 prints for a total of about 3 hours and didn't see a bit of instability in the hotend temperature. I changed two things, the mega board and the thermistor cable. Now I have to see which one was actually the problem. It should be pretty easy because the old thermistor cable is still there, Iby brucehvn - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 Sudden erratic jumps in temperature readings are usually caused by bad connections to the thermistor, or a thermistor wire touching the hot end metalwork coupled with leakage in the heater cartridge. Just possibly by a faulty thermistor. Hi dc42, That was my first thought, but I've got two thermistor cartridges and they show the same behavior. Unless I got two bad ones from E3D, it aby brucehvn - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteOhmarinus Just going out on a limb here and suggest that it might be a faulty MOSFET? Or maybe a break in the solder of the MOSFET? Check the soldering of the MOSFET and see if it came loose somewhere. I don't know how you can check if a MOSFET has gone bad, but that's where I would check. Maybe just replace the thing since it's a cheap component anyway. If it was a PSU issue, you would fiby brucehvn - RAMPS Electronics
I've been struggling with temperature issues on my hotend for seemingly months now. While the bed temperature has always been rock solid, the hotend can either be very solid, or just wildly all over the place, sometimes triggering a thermal shutdown. I'm running an i3 variant with Ramps 1.4, Arduino Mega 2560 R3, and Marlin bugfix-2.0.0. I'm running an E3Dv6 hotend that uses the thermistor carby brucehvn - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteo_lampe Don't worry about the coil voltage. Most people use 80% of max. current and calculate Vref accordingly. You've registered 4 years ago, so I won't bother you with links to our Wiki or suggest 'searching' the forum Thanks o_lampe. That answers my question just fine.by brucehvn - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteDiggrr That is silicone vacuum tubing for automobiles. You can order it in many sizes on eBay. There is also the printer/kit version that you were seeking : Gulfcoast Robotics Great! Thanks Diggrr.by brucehvn - General
About a year ago I ordered a silicon heat pad for my printer and it came with a nice aluminum plate to mount it on and this length of some sort of rubberish hose or tubing that I was to cut up and use for the spacers between the heater plate and the mounting surface of my printer. The material works really well and I want to find some more of it, but the seller is gone from eBay. I've got someby brucehvn - General
I'm curious about the max amperage we should use when setting stepper voltages. If I have a stepper motor that according to the specs is rated at 1.2A, at a rated 2V. Do we have to do any conversion on those values? I'm thinking that we run our stepper motors at 5V, or am I incorrect? If we calculate based on 5V, then that seems like the max amperage becomes .48A (using P = I * E). That doesby brucehvn - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quoteos3dp Checkout the excellent writeup that the_digital_dentist made about belt paths. CoreXY Mechanism Layout and Belt Tensioning -os3dp Thanks for that link. That's a good writeup. @o_lampe, thanks for your response also. I think what I can do is make the motor mounts moveable in a forward/backward direction. That would allow me to adjust the tension without affecting parallelism.by brucehvn - CoreXY Machines
I'm building a core xy printer based on the fabotatum design (no crossing belts) as in the image below. It's coming along fine but I was reading some threads here about how to adjust the tightness of the belts. I think digital_dentist showed some images that got me thinking about something. I've always been of the assumption that for this design all the belt paths must be either perpendicularby brucehvn - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe Marlin will never be fixed Do you use z-lift during retraction and UBL at the same time? Yes, I'm sure Marlin will always be a work in progress. Kind of like my house... I was not using z-lift during retraction. One issue I saw at the marlin github said the issue was related to UBL plus no z-lift, but even when I added some z-lift, it still behaved the same.by brucehvn - Printing
Ok, seems this is a firmware issue after all. There appears to be a bug in Marlin related to UBL. If I disable UBL, the problem goes away.by brucehvn - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Thanks Dust. I have that basic firmware and I think I've already commented the heaters, etc., as I've only ever used it for stepper motor testing in the past. In reviewing the Marlin open issues, it seems there are some about this very behavior that seem to point to UBL as a cause. Sure enough, if I turn off UBL, then the problem seems to go away. I'm very confused by the whole thing though bby brucehvn - Printing
I'm not trying to cross post, but I'm really being stymied by a problem and I didn't see this particular section before posting to the printing section. On retract/unretract my z motors are turning which after some time causes my print to fail miserably. This started happening very suddenly a few days ago. Normal extrusion doesn't cause any issues. Please see my original posts in this topicby brucehvn - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quoteo_lampe Maybe something went wrong with hardware retraction? What, if you send G1 E-5 F### instead? As a general advice, it's always useful to erase the EEprom before flashing a new Marlin version. HTH Olaf Hi Olaf, Doing a manual retraction still turns the z motors. In fact, doing a manual extract with a very slow speed (2 mm/s), just turns the z motors slowly. That's the same speed Iby brucehvn - Printing