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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Y axis binding - 11 years ago
This thought is kind of out there, but you said it changed when you moved it to the garage... Any chance there's a big temperature difference between your garage and where you had it previously? If so, your lubricant on your bearings could be stiffening up. Also, if there's a dry spot inside the bearing that can be sticking as well when it rolls around to a certain position. On the sliding beby ltklein - Printing
Re: Z-axis moving too little? - 11 years ago
Checking your pots is a good start as you just may be missing steps. Also make this check (hopefully you have calipers...a ruler can get you pretty close) Home your Z axis. Then, use your manual controls to raise it by 5mm. Check with your calipers to see that it in fact raised 5 mm. Raise it another 10mm and see that its up 15mm. Another 5mm up to 20mm. If it's not, you'll need to adjustby ltklein - Printing
Re: layers not fusing properly - 11 years ago
I think the 2 issues you mention are separate. Since you're at 190 degrees, I assume this print is using PLA... For the strength issue, I would try bumping up the temperature 5 degrees at a time. The filament seems to be laying down nicely but could be cooling too quickly for it to bond well to the previous layer. If you get to 205 degrees and there's no improvement, then come back and we'llby ltklein - Printing
Re: Trouble printing - 11 years ago
QuotePaul4865 snip - "I would not use olive oil, you will cause all sorts of other issues..." There is zero relationship between using olive oil as a mechanical lubricant and very thinly coating the exterior of the PLA. There's plenty of evidence on here of folks solving some of their printing problems by using it. In short...no, I don't recommend it if you can avoid it. But it is something yby ltklein - Printing
Re: Odd final 1/3 of print - 11 years ago
Perhaps the extruder motor or the stepper driver is getting hot and starting to skip steps later in in the print? Also, the lower part seems to be bigger which takes more time to make the layers and do the infill. Towards the top, if it doesn't have as much time to cool, you may see the heat issues... Try the fan on the other side of the print and see if the problem remains on the same face ofby ltklein - Printing
Re: Trouble printing - 11 years ago
I would tend to agree. I run 205 on the first layer and 200 on the rest for PLA. I think at 220 you may start burning the PLA and the residue may clog the nozzle. That's just a guess though... I'm using olive oil on my PLA to keep it flowing as it jams my hotend without it. I put a couple drops on a cotton ball and run it about about 18" of the filament before I start the print, adding someby ltklein - Printing
Re: Heatbed Heating Problem - 11 years ago
On my setup, my bed can't get above 80 degrees C before the thermal fuse kicks it offline. That said, I found I didn't need to get it any higher anyway. I've been reading about various enclosures and keeping the heat up around the print job for the duration for ABS. Not wanting to go through all the work without knowing that it will work, I simply pointed a small heater across the bed and usedby ltklein - Printing
Re: Wavy pattern - 11 years ago
I had this problem up until a couple of weeks ago. Cutting to the chase...I found that with a little pressure I could make my hot end shift in it's mount. So, as it printed it would shift to one position for awhile..and then it would shift to another, and then it would shift back. The key here was there would be layers printing in one position, shift to another and then return to the originalby ltklein - Printing
Re: Heated end clogging - 11 years ago
I have some olive oil in a drip bottle and keep a supply of cotton balls with the printer. I put 2-3 drops on a cotton ball and run it up the PLA before it enters the extruder. Olive oil doesn't burn at the temps we run and will flow with the plastic. Some other oils may collect an boil in your hot end and cause bubbles. I wouldn't change the oil your using unless you see bubbles in your prinby ltklein - Printing
Re: pictorial print issue identifier - 11 years ago
ti-luc, If you're using Slic3er, open your configuration. Go to the Print Settings tab and click on Advanced on the left side. On First Layer it defaults to 200%, which makes the first layer twice as wide. This helps with getting your part to adhere to the bed. If you have a part with good contact, you don't need extra width so make it 0. Something with a good flat bottom like a box will adby ltklein - Printing
Re: New large format printer design - first print - 11 years ago
Wow...that's pretty impressive... And a nice print too!... I'll be watching this one. Might be a good follow-up to my I3... Thanks for sharing!by ltklein - General
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 11 years ago
Quotejzatopa The temps are right, I double checked with my thermo couple. The difference between the two is 1.8c. Here is order of events that led me to cranking up the temp. 1. heat up hotend to 190c 2. Once hotend reaches ~190 I can extrude without problems for a few minutes. 3. After a period of time the filament starts to jam. Barrel is cool to the touch due to fan. 4. Finally the hot endby ltklein - General
Re: Misumi parts for an i3 - 11 years ago
QuoteWhiskeyMike ... I looked for Nema motors, but they don't seem to have them. ... . They have stepper motors. Just type stepper in the search bar:by ltklein - General
Re: Prusa I3 - Anyone recognize these plastic parts? - 11 years ago
QuoteNewPerfection I think the extruder gears are these: (found by a quick search for "biohazard" on Thingiverse) I'm pretty sure the extruder is just the standard Greg Wade's etc. for the i3, can be seen here: I belive you nailed it on both counts. I didn't recognize that as a biohazard symbol until you mentioned it. Thanks so much!by ltklein - General
Prusa I3 - Anyone recognize these plastic parts? - 11 years ago
I have a used Prusa I3 and I'm looking to ID the source of, for the files for the printed parts. After looking at every extruder picture the search engines will send me, I'm not finding a match for that or the other parts. The driven gear on the extruder has a hub pattern that I've only found on Herringbone sets (see picture). Also seemingly unique is a 43/13 ratio on the extruder. It appearsby ltklein - General