Yeah the guy who sold it to me was ... well he just needed to turn off one setting and it works perfectly. Probably a thousand hours since without even a jam.by L4nce0 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist It looks like an interesting design. The main weakness I see is that as the print gets taller the largest portion of the XZ mass get higher and higher in the air and is going to swing like a pendulum every time it reverses direction. Unless you use very low acceleration which ultimately means printing very slowly, print quality will suffer toward the top of tall prints.by L4nce0 - General
That is a good point. It was not that long ago I pulled off a chunk of borosilicate off my flashforge. I could also add a laminate like the flashforge has, which makes it almost impossible to take parts off and preventing said glass problem. I added it to fore mentioned plate on the reverses side and have had no more issues. I see I can order a 3/8th tempered plate for 260 +s/h. The think witby L4nce0 - General
[3dplatform.com] Just look at that.. Some simple compression conrners, some thick glass, and done. Just getting that glass is the problem!by L4nce0 - General
Hmm. Yeah suspending just wont work.. Well lets look at the printer the heat bed I got is from That is a giant borosilicate glass, Gravity does a grand job making it flat. The bed in that video is plywood. (they use metal / industrial carts now) Their design is pretty slick, and minimalistic. Though no room for heat chambers etc. I cannot find anywhere that comes close to selling borosilicaby L4nce0 - General
Sorry for the delay in replying. It's been an eventful week. Also thank you for all the high content replies! They really help. jamesK Thanks for that thread, its a great one. Also I will admit I am now a bit intimidated because his design is so much more complicated than mine. Especially as I am also using openrails parts. I can at least take comfort that I made a good cheaper choice in linearby L4nce0 - General
I'm looking at I can order a MIC 6 plate 46inches ^2 (bed is just under 40 inches) at a quarter inch thickness, with shipping for like 600. These are casted plates with high precision! Maybe that's the solution? I was surprised I could order them so large and have delivery for just 60. (I mean I just paid UPS 100 to ship a broken b9 across country) Thoughts? I mean, those are some BIG plates. Iby L4nce0 - General
Hi everyone. I have been working on a large format 3d printer. I had designed it originally for 500mm size, had a custom high precision casted metal plate made (very expensive). I happened to get 2 1000mm^2 heaterbeds as overstock from [3dplatform.com] for a good price. Now a 500mm bed I can figure out how to make. a 1000mm bed, thats is a whole other beast. I have No Clue how I am going to creaby L4nce0 - General
The bigger question is what does the system use. as thats not something I want to replace. Yeah the duet boards are 32 bit and take 24v or 12v. Nice boardby L4nce0 - General
Hi everyone. One of my goals in the coming months is to start recording the crazy projects I am working on. Like building me oversized 3d printer. I was wondering if anyone has experience doing this. I don't want to be tied to a computer and don't want crud video quality. I was thinking a gopro, but those cost an insane amount. What do you all use?by L4nce0 - General
Hi everyone. So I got this makerbot 5th gen off this guy in one of the 3d printing groups I'm in. He told me the thing doesn't work... Turns out it works beuti.. it works like a makerbot. I knew before I bought it I would need to strip out everything stratasys and use it as a frame. Don't worry I only paid 500 for it. One thing they did right was the linear motion.. if you can ignore the insaneby L4nce0 - General
I found the solution. My PSU wasn't working.. What can I say I'm a software engineer, not a EE :-P Tony at think3dprint3d gave some great step by step instructions. So this next post is for my future counterpart looking for a howto.. Below is his email. Before we go any further I am assuming you have 12-24 V of power supplied to VIN for motors and heaters. Step 1 - Upload Firmware Firstly Iby L4nce0 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Okay, I've updated it to the current master, as well as one that someone on the reprap forums said came out yesterday. Tried every combo of firmware and copied default cartesian sys files (renames to match the paradigm) At this point I've spent a good day and a half of working time on this. Lets see if you know of a firmware / sys combination that works. I have just a standard mendelmax 1.5 printby L4nce0 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Okay I copied the settings file from the newest build, put it on the SD card. I launch the "mendel" version of pronterface. I start it up. Press buttons. No reaction, at all. >.<by L4nce0 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I followed that link. I entered all the information.. but when I open pronterface I still cannot make the printer move, or change temps. All I can do is read the temps.. Getting weird errors. Setting temperature: no tool selected. Macro file homey.g not found. Macro file homey.g not found. Macro file homey.g not found. Macro file homeall.g not found.by L4nce0 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi everyone I have the new duet board 0.8.5 or so. I am too used to marlin style firmwares. If someone can point me in the right direction on finding a sample config file for ONE plastruder and a cartesian style printer.. I have looked but it all my serch results pop up with delta printers. Below is monstrosity of a firmware file I ended up with. I boot up with their special version of pronterby L4nce0 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi guys, I have been trying to solve this one myself, but it's been 3 weeks without a solution. I am building a 3d printer with a silicon pad 600mm^2. I was thinking I could get a machined metal plate but none of the local companies are even willing to give me a quote. The precision platestock has a reported tolerance of 1.5mm. I think I'd need less that .5mm, or less.. Anyone have experienceby L4nce0 - General
QuoteEpop I don't know anything about arduino other than it seems to be aging... though I've also read Duet is based on it and some say the firmware is a wreck because of it. Though I don't program, it doesn't seem to affect operation. Other than that I haven't seen much comparison between the two that I can remember atm. I'm running build envelope about half your size with a12v Duet+x4 &amby L4nce0 - General
Yeah.. fun how these projects snowball. But hey I figure all this will lead to some great topics for the blog I'm going to start this month. All I know is some people had problems with the size of the printer in relation to the architecture of the chip. Lets see.. using my comp sci degree.. 8 bits 255 addresses, 16 bit 65,536 addresses.. gcode is a 3 decimal point float in gcode.. I know its beenby L4nce0 - General
Hi guys. I'm building a 600mm x 600mm x 400mm 3d printer with 3+ e3d hotends. (as the kraken doesn't support 3mm plastic) But there seems to be a lack of forum topics posted this year about the state of tri and quad systems. If it all goes well I plan to go up to 4 hotends in the long term. Probably dual for the first few months. I know people keep talking about architecture of the systems, thaby L4nce0 - General
Actually I found a better one since my post It has a Huge temp range! Not 100c like the first one but 300c+!by L4nce0 - General
Quotesimspeed My aluminum bed is 560 mm by 760 mm for a printer I'm building. I made it out of 8020 v-slot extrusions. I used ni-chrome wire looped inside to make the heater circuit. It heats to 110c using 120v mains power. I built it on a stainless steel kitchen cart. I'm having some bearing shaft parts made to tie the dual Nema 23 Z axis motors together for the Y gantry. I just finished tby L4nce0 - General
I like the way you think sir! Though what wire are you using? I've only need nickel chromium wire in tiny tiny pricy strands. So you essentially have the wire going through the slotted aluminum extrusions. How much wire are you doing per length? What temps are you able to get it to? I would LOVE to see what that looks like with a heat camera. Been drooling over IF it had a better range of teby L4nce0 - General
Quotesimspeed If you have a high temp heated enclosure....do you even need a heated bed. I had a few small ABS parts printed locally on a Stratasys printer and was surprised to see that the print bed plates are made from ABS. No heat bed but the enclosure is like a sealed oven. He said the plates are reusable for quite a number of prints and they only cost about $5 to replace. Thats interestiby L4nce0 - General
Ouch found their giant bed That would be 300 bucks before it got here! (ignoring its too long) At that price point I would think I would be able to make one.by L4nce0 - General
Well I got the 600mm bed. However in the mean time I have decided that I want to do 1000mm x 1000mm. The fact that would be about big enough to prin an iron man torso, was not a factor. . . Anyways I got the big sheet in, and I'm trying to decide what to do with it. It cost 25 bucks to get here, if I returned it I would be out a net of 50 bucks. I almost wonder if I do an all mental sheet at 100by L4nce0 - General
You know, if you have to say firehazard its probably not a good idea.. It concerns me that you're talking like you're not going through your electronics. Are you doing a rubber bed plate with a SSR?by L4nce0 - General
Oh my.. oh my.. as a person who's fried.. 4+ PSU trying to jerry rig old PC PSUs (I've learned a bit about what not to do with Wiring) My only question is how would you feel if you fried your tower, instead of buying a dedicated PSU? worth it. Note thats the 24V not a 12v That said, some lessons have to be learned first hand. Buy real connectors, don't do this half assed like I did the firstby L4nce0 - General
I had issues like that on my mm 1.5+ when cranking the speed up. My solution was to turn the acceleration almost in half for Z. if it binds, then you are likely trying to go too fast. That and other factors. You have 4 rods between X and Z. Its easier to balance a 3 legged chair than a 4 legged one. Your binding might have to do with the X axis not being level, increasing friction. Maybe try someby L4nce0 - General
All I can say is when I'm really trying to print fast (200 mm/s) (no idea what that equates to with the hot end) with PLA I'll crank it to 220-240. I mean you're trying to spit the plastic out at almost twice the speed. It has microseconds in contact with the hot end. I'm looking at getting an all metal hot end so I can hit 260+ with ABS for fast speeds. if it jams, then you are trying to push sby L4nce0 - General