For PLA, I poke a long screw through from the other side, screw the nut on a few turns, then heat the nut with a lighter for a few seconds and pull the screw until it sinks in.by kellymc - Reprappers
Possibly move down to 5mm threaded rod? Even unconstrained, perhaps the mass of the wobbling 8mm rods is moving the printer. Smaller rods won't have as much affect on your smooth Z rods.by kellymc - Reprappers
Quotevegasloki Full disclosure, I've been selling mechanical kits (frames, rods, bearings, hardware, etc) for almost two years now. Hey, I bought one of your melamine frames for this build. I've got all the mechanicals assembled and it seems really solid and square so far.by kellymc - General
If it's any help, here's my source list for my i3 Rework. It's my first printer and I'm currently building it. I'm at a bit over $500 total after picking up various parts I missed like wire connectors and extra nuts and washers. But I was doing much better than that and decided to splurge on a few things like Misumi rods and the E3D hot end, so I think you could definitely get closer to $400 ifby kellymc - General
I went ahead and cut them. I think it's easier to adjust them that way anyway, especially if you already installed the idlers.by kellymc - Reprappers
New question. I've got custom length belts too, but It appears my custom lengths were wrong. Should custom belts just run from pulley to idler with one pass through the holder/carriage, or is tightening/doubling of some sort still necessary? My belts are too long to go straight on. I certainly could just cut them and tighten with zip ties, but I want to make sure I'm not wasting the benefit ofby kellymc - Reprappers
Hey, I figured something else out last night while switching my Y-axis ends. On the print bed base, don't zip tie the bearing on the single-bearing side at first. Just put the bearing on the rod and let the bearing nestle into the slot. Later, when you're tightening everything down, you can nudge your transverse axes in or out until the bearing rests squarely in the slot when slid to both ends.by kellymc - Reprappers
Have you started your build yet? I'm still waiting on motors, but I've got my extruder assembled and have put all the electronic boards together and have been thinking about how the wires will run. I'm curious how others are doing with their first Rework builds. Concerning flipping the y motor around. I would say go ahead and assemble your frame the same time you loose fit the y-axis together anby kellymc - Reprappers
And another thing you might have seen on my thread here -- The Rework assembly instructions have the Y motor and endstop in the front. I did it that way and have it all Loctited down, but I don't know understand why they did it like that. You've got to run wires out to the front and it seems like it puts more bulk and fragile parts right out where you'll be taking prints off. I'd switch the idlerby kellymc - Reprappers
The metric bits may not be all that necessary. Most of the parts fit fine and some just needed a little bit of cleanup that could have been done with a close-sized standard bit. Oh, and check if you have hardware for the frame assembly. I did not, but got 6 each #6-32 1-inch screws and nyloc nuts from Home Depot that worked fine.by kellymc - Reprappers
I just started assembly on that same configuration. Rework parts with the melamine supported frame. Here's my spreadsheet, if it may be of some help to you to compare: Rework BOM I'm done with most mechanical assembly, including the extruder, but still need to attach motors and electronics. So while I'm not very experienced, my experience is quite fresh and at a glance, your list looks right toby kellymc - Reprappers
What is the point of the circuit boards anyway? Just an led and a harness connector? Maybe I should take them off and use them bare. I tried to stay close to the documentation since this is my first build, but it does make more sense to me to have the motor in back closer to the other electronics. Are there other downsides? It's all loctited together and the rear transverse rod is longer to connby kellymc - Reprappers
I started self-sourcing for my first 3d printer build 2 months ago and finally got started building this weekend. It's more or less a Prusa i3 Rework, with some deviations. I'm pretty thrilled with how the mechanical assembly has gone so far. Having done just this much, I already have a hugely improved understanding of everything I've been reading about since I started this project. And of coursby kellymc - Reprappers
On yet a closer look -- I received my order from Misumi and have the pulleys in hand -- you are correct. These pulleys have no collar for the set screw to connect them to the motor shaft. Misumi calls this Shape A. The one with the collar is Shape B, but it doesn't appear to be available in this size.by kellymc - General
Sorry, on closer look, it appears the Misumi pulleys do come with (at least) the threaded hole for the set screw to attach to a motor shaft. Is there something else needed?by kellymc - General
Thanks for spotting that. I actually started my first build process based on one of those Misumi lists and i think I've just got the plain GT2 pulleys coming. Any idea if that connector (I assume it's a little sleeve with a grub screw) can be found easily? I still have another Misumi order to place, so I will add it on.by kellymc - General
Great feedback and great education on Z-axis and filament drive-- thanks so much. This does validate some of the choices I've made. I've since opted to go with chromed bearing steel rods from Misumi. I think it's worth an extra $17 to not have to cut them myself. Those, along with my Misumi bearings and pulleys/belts (ordered during their $150 promo in March) seems like they'll make a pretty smoby kellymc - Reprappers
tmorris, Do you use an abrasive disk or a steel cutting blade on the chop saw?by kellymc - Reprappers
Ah thanks, I hadn't looked at those Amazon rods in a while. Cheaper to go with these longer ones But is it any harder to cut chrome? Assuming I find an angle grinder. I've been advised repeatedly to stick with a real J-head since this is my first printer, although I like the idea of future proofing with all metal. Thoughts? I'm afraid I've already ordered cheapo RAMPS. We'll see how it goesby kellymc - Reprappers
I'm self-sourcing a Prusa i3 and am actually under budget at the moment, so I'm considering where it might be good to spend a bit more. I'm looking at rods right now and thinking I'll go with the nicer McMaster hardened rods (http://www.mcmaster.com/#6112k15/=ruke5w) instead of the eBay tool steel I had planned. For threaded, I'm looking at some cheap ones I found here: but I wonder if it wouldby kellymc - Reprappers