I have the very same issue. Bought myself a genuine E3D V6 hotend for my printer and installed it ok. It prints well, but almost immediately my printer started to intermittently shut down with Thermal runaway warnings. So I went into Marlin and changed the Thermal Runaway Hysteresis from 4 to 10 deg C and that seemed to cure that false warning. But then during printing I noticed that the hotby vince31 - RAMPS Electronics
In the current/latest version of Marlin 2.0.bugfix available on Github there is no table (as you show above) in Configuration.h to set the boundaries for probing. Its just like this: #if EITHER(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) // Set the number of grid points per dimension. #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 4 #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X // Probe along theby vince31 - Firmware - Marlin
Where do I define the bed levelling grid max/min parameters for Bi-Linear bed levelling in Marlin 2.0? This used to be in Configuration.h in 1.1.x but its not there now in 2.0by vince31 - Firmware - Marlin
I just binned my 2130s today because Im fed up with the drivers overheating, my motors overheating and failed prints due to the overheating issues even at slower speeds and vastly reduced accels. I just refitted the 4988s and whacked up the speed and accels to the old settings I had and now Im happy again. I now get fast, no fail prints everytime!by vince31 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
For adhesion of PLA on my 55 deg glass bed I just use a little bit of PVA glue mixed with some water (about 10 or more water to 1 glue ratio) then spead the mix all over the glass bed and heat up until the mix is all dry and grey. Then its ready to print. no tape, spray or anything else, this works really well for me anyway. When the print is finished you have to wait until the bed is completeby vince31 - General
Solved, see my post aboveby vince31 - Reprappers
Nope, perimeter speeds are high (100) like all the rest. Found out what the problem was though, there's a setting in Slic3r in Filament settings in the Cooling section at the bottom where you can select to "slow down the layer print time if below XX seconds" Mine was set to 20 seconds and this was too high for the layers that had infill because they would have printed faster than 20 secs, so Sliby vince31 - Reprappers
I have a Prusa i3 and am using Marlin FW with Slic3r. I'm trying to improve printing speeds now I have the quality where I want it and am having some success. But my problem is that the print goes really well (fast and high quality) for the first 4 layers and then slows down for the subsequent perimeters and layers. It then speeds up again for a single solid layer at 25 where I have a solid laby vince31 - Reprappers
Wouldnt you also need a bigger power supply to drive the larger heated bed? What about warping/sagging of the glass plate bed, would this become an issue, especially when heated to high temp?by vince31 - Reprappers
mine is about as strong as a biro spring and about the same lengthby vince31 - Reprappers
Hi, I'm new to this, but mine seems to be working ok as follows: PLA - Head heat first layer 200, then 185 Bed temp 55 with a weak PVA glue and water mix. Prints stick every time and just need a little water soak to release from the glass plate at the end. Print speed 50mmby vince31 - Reprappers
Hi Shane, I'm no expert but I don't think a slight bow in the threaded rod will make any difference. If the Z Axis is jamming then I'm guessing that it must be an issue with both Z axis motors not running at the same rate, so this means the threaded rods do not turn at the same rate and the X Axis twists causing the jam. On your RAMPS board, where the 2x Z Axis Motors connect to the board therby vince31 - Reprappers
Hi Shane, Ive just built my own i3 as well and had to set up my end stops to get the motor working and get them moving in the right direction too. I found it best to do all the changes in the Marlin firmware rather than swapping wires and frigging it by swapping over wires. Firstly, to make each of the motors move in Pronterface it first needs to know where the end stop datum position is forby vince31 - Reprappers
I dont think it makes any difference, 2.5*60 was just the setting recommended to use on the You Tube cal vid I was watching, I guess its the same as typing in 150 like you say. When you say "it jibbed out", what do you mean? did one of the m5 nuts come out of the x Axis holder? if so then see my fix in the photos earlier. I'm new to this printer too, so any advice is a help! :-). Just printinby vince31 - Reprappers
ecleary, My z axis is fine at 4000 steps per unit, in fact it has to be 4000 steps to move 1mm due to the thread pitch on the m5 threaded rods. If you turn it down to 2800 then you wont get 1 mm of travel on the Z Axis I dont think. I remember that I had to turn down the Z axis homing speed though to 2.5 in the firmware as follows: #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 2.5*60, 0} // set the hoby vince31 - Reprappers
Here is the STL file for the Y axis end stop I had to swap over my Y axis motor to the other side of the bracket, so then had to then swap over the motor direction of travel in the firmware too. Also had to adjust the tension on the drive belt due to the mounting holes being slightly in a different position. Hope you guys get it up and running soon. Redesigning my Z axis End stop now! lolby vince31 - Reprappers
Here is a pic of my new Y end stop holder integrated with the motor mount. Works great and gives me full 200mm travelby vince31 - Reprappers
What is the extruder nozzle size for the 3dPrinterczar i3? I cant find it out anywhere and I just want to get it right in Slic3r.by vince31 - Reprappers
After printing my first calibration cube I tried again the next night to move on to designing and printing a better solution to the Y end stop. But I now have a problem with the extruder head thermistor which is giving max temp readings of about 220 deg C at room temp (even 2 hours after no power being applied!). I swapped the thermistor connections over (swapped bed to extruder and vice versa)by vince31 - Reprappers
Hi there, here are the pics of my end stop positions and the frame position I use to get 180 mm of Y Axis travel for now. I'm going to make a new Y end stop microswitch holder, it will be an integral part of the motor mount at the back which should then give the full 200 mm of travel. I did my first print tonight to check my calibration settings in the firmware (they are set to {80,80,4000,569})by vince31 - Reprappers
Hi there, I just got back from being away for a while out of uk, I will be able to send pics on Monday night for your Y axis issues. Basically, mine is set about an inch back in the slot for now as that seems to give me the best overall end to end range of travel on the Y axis. Ive put my endstop on the back of the right hand (looking from the back) smooth rod slight inclined to the right soby vince31 - Reprappers
I think you also need the relevant end stop micro switch plugged in to the correct place on the RAMPS board to make the circuit for the motor, I believe it will not run if it thinks the micro switch has been activated (i.e. activated means open circuit, which is the same as not being connected).by vince31 - Reprappers
Thanks for the info, looking forward to getting it when DHL can be bothered!by vince31 - Reprappers
Hi there, just bought the same printer from 3dprinterCzar and waiting very impatiently for DHL to deliver it! Really looking forward to assembly and even calibration! What is best to start with, PLA or PVA, 3 or 1,75mm ? Anything I should watch out for?by vince31 - Reprappers