I'm suddenly reminded of the old Apple II floppy drive-- Legend has it that Woz used a 40 track controller on a 35 track drive, so the infamous "Chug-Chug-Chug-Chug-Chug" was the head banging against the drive stop 5 times. ... the drive in that link has some serious problems aside from the controller design, though.by grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl i suspect i know what you have a problem with: you have a problem with the "deliberately amusing and apparently non-scientific test" that i proposed. i like those kinds of tests. they're simple, they can be applied quickly and easily, they don't need you to be a rocket-scientist or to have any kind of expensive tools or equipment or even a machine shop, and the results of the test areby grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl awesome btw can i recommend replacing that RAMPS board as a matter of priority? if you had a duet for example it has LED indicators for the endstops, which tell you if the endstops are working or not. but there are more reasons than that - the stepper ICs on tiny *EXPERIMENTAL* boards are not designed for production use and you will, guaranteed, run into problems in the future - ovby grat - CoreXY Machines
I think it goes with other questions such as "How much wood can a woodchuck chuck", "What is the sound of one hand clapping", and "which is better, Delta or CoreXY". I can point to designs that run teeth against smooth idlers, and designs that run teeth against teethed idlers-- both seem to be equally effective at printing. It is possible (although anecdotal) that the toothed pulleys produce moby grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl ok so that's great! thank you for bringing to my attention important information that i can use to improve my own printer as well as pass that knowledge on to others in this quite small and exclusive community, in the future. now, why did you have to bring that knowledge to our attention in a way that made yourself look better than anyone else? is it *absolutely* necessary for you toby grat - CoreXY Machines
The general consensus seems to be that while noise can impersonate a switch closing, it can't impersonate a switch opening. So NC is in theory better than NO. Unless your wiring is clean, twisted, and relatively noise free (and doesn't run parallel to stepper wires). Also, if you wire in series with NO -> NO -> NO -> NO, then closing any particular switch will not complete your circuiby grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentistWhen I see a new printer design on display somewhere the first thing I do is push on the frame. If it moves visibly, I'm pretty sure that the print quality is going to be limited. The quality of the frame is a sign of the overall quality of the printer. If the manufacturer skimped on frame quality, they probably skimped on everything else, too. That's fine. Standing iby grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkclput feet through frame. bend down, take top corexy with both hands. now twist (like unscrewing bottle). if frame moves (even the slightest bit), you have identified a problem. ... and then throw the frame out and build it all over again, because you've applied an atypical force of an unknown quantity to your precisely-built metal frame. Why don't you just repeatedly hit it with aby grat - CoreXY Machines
Very, very quick overview of git, git workflow, and common tasks. Then learn the incredibly simple "markdown" language that is common to github, and you can publish your project with history, documentation and 8x10 color glossy photos with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one explaining what it is.by grat - CoreXY Machines
Take a section of metal tubing slightly larger in diameter than your bolt and slightly shorter in length than the inside dimensions of your square tubing, thread the outside ends, attach bolts, slide into place, drop bolt through. For ease of positioning, wrap some solid core wire around the middle of the tube while you're positioning it, and pull the wire loose once the bolt's through. Or juby grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I suppose you're right. Why spend $40 on a cast bed plate that's flat, rigid, heats evenly, and prints stick, when you can spend $30 on a thin, flexible piece of aluminum and a piece of glass to try to flatten it? You saved $10! So what if you're going to be messing around for many hours over the life of the printer, trying to get prints to stick. Life is long, you haby grat - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAx Personally, I'd take the Titan option. Injection moulded is far more accurate than a printed part. Depends on the quality of the mold, and how much the manufacturer cared, but typically, yes, I'd agree. Of course, you can ram as much torque as you can into a piece of filament, but if you're not melting it fast enough to go through the hotend, or if your hotend is jamming for some otheby grat - CoreXY Machines
Technically, the smartrapcore forum is a few doors down the hall.... but... Looks like you're over-cooling to me. You really shouldn't get warp on PLA with a reasonably calibrated printer. I don't have a smartrap core, but the kit looks like standard PCB + glass. Can't tell if it's borosilicate or not (recommended). I do heat my bed to about 50C for PLA (anything over room temp is probablyby grat - CoreXY Machines
If you're starting out, I'd get the SmartCore aluminum kit. It's a kit, which is good-- it's not a terrible coreXY implementation, and you'll learn a great deal by building one someone else designed. Definitely add the LCD panel if you buy the kit version. Then once you've got it up and running, and tuned, you can either upgrade parts of this one, or use it to print parts for a new printer.by grat - CoreXY Machines
They should be tight enough to not have slop when moving back and forth. They should not be so tight they rip your carriage in half.by grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl Quotethe_digital_dentist As I understand deltas, resolution varies depending on XY coordinates - the resolution is higher near the center of the bed and decreases as you move away from the center. . ... and i'm printing 230mm-long parts where the aesthetics are important, and there are critical-accuracy ends that have to fit into other parts. some of the parts are printed upright, andby grat - CoreXY Machines
With the C/D-Bot design, most corners can (and should) be done with 90 degree metal brackets. You could design around the printed motor mounts if you wanted, since a NEMA-17 mount and a couple metal brackets would work there as well. It's the two blocks in what I consider the "back" of the printer that have pulleys embedded in them that are probably best off as printed parts, and once they're pby grat - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Length-wise they should be cut by the vendor you have purchased it from. Hacksaw will not do a clean square cut. Maybe a miter saw could do the job but I wouldn't trust that. Maybe others have actual experience cutting aluminum with the miter saw and might say otherwise. I would be interested in DIY-able ways to cut square/flush aluminum tube/extrusion. Miter saw will cut just finby grat - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDavid J Who says that there are no CoreXY kits available? Here's a modestly priced one to get on with: Smartrapcore ALU. If you don't fancy buying the whole kit, you can buy part-kits (e.g. plastic parts). This design is also on Thingiverse, or even its predecessor if you fancy a bit of woodworking. I can't comment on the effectiveness of this design, but it is available and I believe thaby grat - CoreXY Machines
There are many, many sub $400 delta kits available, most of which have made "questionable" choices in assembling the kits. Getting help assembling these kits, and making them work correctly generates a great deal of traffic. To my knowledge, there are *no* CoreXY kits available, and very few 'hobbyist' level CoreXY systems (ie, < $1000), so nearly all the traffic on this forum is people whoby grat - CoreXY Machines
Same concept, might be a bit easier to use:by grat - CoreXY Machines
Note that the D-bot is a derivative of Carl Feniak's C-Bot, and there is also a "triple C bot" which is the same idea but with three leadscrews (one motor + belt). All three printers share the basic concept of using 20x40 v-slot for structure and wheel + carriage on v-slot for motion components, and it's pretty easy to scale the design.by grat - CoreXY Machines
If you put a stacked pulley where the motors normally would be, then you could relocate the motors farther away, and use a single closed loop belt from each motor to drive the stacked pulley. Or, thinking three dimensionally, you could relocate the motors to *under* the box, and drive the pulley(s) from a rod attached to the motor(s).by grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Go for a 32 bit board like Duet or Smoothieboard. I use the latter. It was a refreshing change to convert my printer from Arduino/RAMPS to Smoothie- configuration changes on smoothieboard are simply edits to a single text file that is read by the board each time it boots up. No more hunting through multiple config files and a screwing around with the flakey Arduino IDEby grat - CoreXY Machines
You're overthinking it. Parallel, crossing, whatever. Truth is, the belts are running at such a light load compared with what they're designed for, you might shorten the belt's life by a few months... out of 3-4 years. By the time the belts wear down, you'll be working on a completely different printer anyway.by grat - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist The thing that makes me hesitate to build a delta printer is the difficulty of alignment and diagnosing problems. I have thought about how to ensure that the guide rails are 120 degrees apart, and parallel and it seems difficult. I think I can get the guide rails parallel (using linear guides), but ensuring 120 degrees spacing and no twist is tricky. Also, making thingby grat - Delta Machines
QuoterealthorQuotegrat The carriages should be at 120 degrees to each other, which means a piece of string or a straight edge should bisect the horizontal across from the carriage. Hmm, don't follow the wording of that explanation. Towers angles can quite easily be tested in several ways from which the easiest would be a calibration print and the measurement of the resulting 120 degree lines witby grat - Delta Machines
You may be overthinking this. Generally... Towers should be vertical. A plumb line should be able to determine that, and a spirit level should be able to tell the frame is horizontal. The carriages should be at 120 degrees to each other, which means a piece of string or a straight edge should bisect the horizontal across from the carriage. Infinite levels of decimal places are nice, but impraby grat - Delta Machines
Quoterealthor So far we have: 1) Maximum speed dependent on CPU throttling => Top speed limited by CPU power; 2) Maximum acceleration dependent on motor specs, voltage in the steppers 3) Maximum acceleration dependent on effector mass, due to the compound effect of rods deflection, mechanical positional overshooting (backlash?) and belt elasticity (=> backlash, overshooting) 4) Maximum spby grat - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 You can use those sensors, with two caveats: 1. The minimum supply voltage is specified as 4.5V. So if using them with 3.3V electronics, you need to provide 5V power to them I know that's what the spec sheet says-- but I'm getting the A3144 to trigger on a Due/RADDS at 3.3v. YMMV, caveat emptor, contents may settle, etc., and I haven't got a holder I'm happy with, so I haven't done mby grat - Delta Machines