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Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 9 years ago

Thanks for the response. What will lowering the bed temp achieve?

Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 9 years ago

Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 9 years ago

I lowered my hot end temp to about 240C....that is the lowest I can go without curling. I also set up retraction at 35mm/s and .5mm with some positive results. My bed is currently at 110C. Now I get small blobs on the parts only on 1 or 2 teeth of the gear (still trying to print the heart gear) and then along the tops when it is creating the rounded sides. Would this be a sign that I need more r

Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 9 years ago

Yea I tried a fan previously with negative results and I figure I would give it a shot again. Like I said before I have not had any success with one. But can a retraction help improve the blobs created when the extruder moves to the next layer?

Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 9 years ago

Xyjerk did not change anything. The fan prevented the print from sticking to the bed properly. I believe it's caused by the print starting and stopping in the same place. Will a z-lift help? Thanks

Re: ABS overhang printing issues - 9 years ago

When I ran at 230C I had curling on my overhangs. I adjusted my xyjerk and I am printing now. If that does nothing I will try out the fan.

ABS overhang printing issues - 9 years ago

Thanks to the extremely helpful reprap community I was able to concur the evil curling overhangs with a 1.5 w/t and a printing temperature of 250C. However I now have another issue, while attempting to print the heart gear some of the teeth come out less than perfect specifically in , however some teeth come out nicely. I am slicing with Cura and I set my outer shell speed to 20mm/s. is this due

Re: Top Layer of print is squashed - 9 years ago

Thanks so much for all your help. And you were right, my filament width setting was way too low. I watched a video about calibrating the filament thickness that steered me down the wrong path a couple months back. The only issue I have now is my print has random holes of the top layer. I am going to increase my top/bottom solid fill height (cura does not have individual settings for each) and fur

Re: Top Layer of print is squashed - 9 years ago

Lowered the hotend temperature to 210C with no noticable improvement. I attempted to print two at the same time and as you can see from the attached photo the prints were worse....significantly worse. I am really lost on this one. I am trying out Cura's cool head lift setting to see if this will help in any way. Any more thoughts by you guys would be awesome...like I said I'm lost. Thanks

Re: Top Layer of print is squashed - 9 years ago

Yes I have calibrated my extruder. I started with the extrusion steps/mm, by simply using tape at 50mm and then using printerface to extrude the 50mm then take (distance expected/distance achieved) * steps per mm. And then for each roll of filament I run a single walled part and measure the wall thickness and the height of the object and use the equation above until it is accurate.

Re: Top Layer of print is squashed - 9 years ago

Thanks again for any help

Re: Top Layer of print is squashed - 9 years ago

Thanks for the quick responses. I'm running my hotend at 225. And I did actually try a fan, even though everyone says not to, and that had some adverse effects. But if my temp is too high how come it seems to only be messing up the top layer?

Top Layer of print is squashed - 9 years ago

Hey everyone, I have an issue with my Z-axis and I have tried everything I could think of the fix it. I am printing on a home made Prusa i3 with abs with a .5mm head with a layer height of .2mm. I am running Marlin with auto leveling setup. As you can see from my attached images (specifically top.jpg) my print gets a bit messed up as it gets to the top of the print. Thus far the things I've tri

Re: ABS juice spray bottle - 10 years ago

Well while just doing some basic clean up, spraying a water based cleaner really helps to loosen in up so I am going to try spraying the bottom edges of a completed part and see if that makes it easier to remove.

Re: ABS juice spray bottle - 10 years ago

Awesome, does this make it easier to remove parts? Because the big issue I am having now with the glue stick is it sticks too well. I've heard people say it pops off as you get to room temp. but for me this is not the case. I love the easiness to apply, I love the adhesion but it is hard to pull off the print bed. I'm considering buying a bunch of glass plates, about $2 for double thick glass her

y axis making a loud sound - 10 years ago

So I'm having an issue with my motors. The most noticable is my y-axis makes a loud sound while it moves longer distance while traveling. It also gets hot, and actually all my motors are getting warm but the y axis is defiantly the warmest. I am using a ramps 1.4 board with stepstick motor controls. My vref is already really low. I am going to turn it down and see how low it can go. The main thin

Re: ABS juice spray bottle - 10 years ago

I know this is sorta off topic but has anyone used elmer's glue stick as an adhesive? I have heard good things and was wondering if anyone had hands on experience with it.

Re: ABS juice spray bottle - 10 years ago

Dave3d, Do you see any inperfections with a paint brush? Also I was thinking about something like a chemical sprayer for plants.

Re: Finding the right slicer program - 10 years ago

Thanks 3D-ES I am running a much older version of Slic3r. I'm going to update to 1.1.7 and see how it goes.

Re: Finding the right slicer program - 10 years ago

In slic3r the only options I have under printer settings, advanced, are 3 check boxes. That say Avoid crossing perimeters, external perimeters first, and spiral vase. Attached is a copy of the stl of the print I tryed in kisslicer. Thanks!!!

Finding the right slicer program - 10 years ago

Hey guys, So the issue I am having is that I can't seem to get a slicer program to work the way I want. With slic3r I actually get a print but the amount of imperfection and the random start point patterns have been getting to me. I heard great things about KISSlicer but I can't seem to get the settings right to actually print something correctly, it never seems to make a complete print. The att

Re: issue with auto bed leveling - not enough compensation - 10 years ago

With a bit of research I figured out my issue. My custom G-code was like this: G28 X0 Y191 G29 G28 X0 Y191 The issue is the G28 command seems to remove the auto leveling data. So now my custom G-code is this: G28 X0 Y191 G29 And it seems to be working

Re: issue with auto bed leveling - not enough compensation - 10 years ago

This is the exact same issue I came across tonight on my printer, crazy . Sorry I do not have anything constructive but my Bed leveling setup is pretty much the same as yours.

Re: ABS juice spray bottle - 10 years ago

Good point about the paper towels, I keep throwing them away. That might be true about the clogging of the bottle but have you seen the hand pump aerosal bottles? That seems like a way to move the liquid quick enough so it does not get stuck. If I find any bottles that won't melt I'll be sure to post my findings.

Re: Broken X-axis? - 10 years ago

Try typing M119 in pronterface and that should tell you if you endstops are triggered or not. If you are not touching your x-endstops and it tells you it is triggered then your logic may be incorrect. Another quick test is whichever endstop said triggered, push and hold the switch with your finger and type M119 again. If it now says open then your logic is defiantly inverted and can be fixed by c

ABS juice spray bottle - 10 years ago

Hey guys, I was curious if anyone has ever used a spray bottle to apply ABS juice to a glass bed? Paper towels work fine but I feel bad blowing through a whole roll of paper towels in a week. I am also open to discuss any other methods of application....WE HAVE TO SAVE THE TREES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks

Re: Implementing an Auto-Leveling Bed? (link) - 10 years ago

jamesdanielv, So does that complete code go into the marlin_main.cpp? I tried to paste it at the end and got this error: "expected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before '(' token" Thanks

Re: Swollen Calibration Cube - 10 years ago

Hey guys thanks for all your help. I got it figured out. My issue was my DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE was set to 2 (mm/sec) but my max mm/min is about 110. I did not see that it said mm/sec. Attached is a 25mm calibration cube that seems pretty good to me. A bit more steps/mm setting tweaking and I should be ready to go. I'm so excited.

Re: Swollen Calibration Cube - 10 years ago

Also I my motors are wired in series, so I might give turning up my vref a bit higher to output more current and see if it is a voltage issue like brucehvn says. Thanks again!!!!

Re: Swollen Calibration Cube - 10 years ago

Thanks guys, I am using 3 in one oil but defiantly clean them up and make sure there is nothing gunting up the works.