Thanks all very much for the tips. I'll try going the route of adding a fan, though it'll take some time because I have to redesign my probe mount to fit on the other side of the carriage since the side it's on is the optimal side for a fan. I will also try turning the bed off after the first layer, see if that helps any. I will try going a little cooler since I'm printing at about 50-75 mm/s, tby NarimaanV - Printing
Hi, I'm running a MakerFarm 10' Prusa i3v with a capacity proximity sensor as an auto bed-leveling probe. I've primarily printed with ABS the two years I've had the printer, but decided to try my hand at PLA since the smell is so much less significant than printing in ABS where I can actually bear to be in the room with the printer. I printed a regular test cube at 210C with the bed at 70Cby NarimaanV - Printing
QuoterealthorDoes the bed loose leveling after once manually leveled to justify carrying a probe around and doing the leveling at each print? I think people should better think this hard about a good structure before auto level compensation. I am sorry but all this focus on probes seems to me a good way for people to avoid the more painful thinking about what is in fact wrong. I think it dependby NarimaanV - General
QuoteusenWhen it is not triggered; 11,82V (Sensor Output) and 0,62V (Signal Output from Sensor) 11,84V (Sensor Output Reach to Ramps 1.4) and 0,92V (Signal Reach to Ramps 1.4) When it is triggered; 9,31V (Sensor Output) and 2,66V (Signal Output from Sensor) 11,97V (Sensor Output Reach to Ramps 1.4) and 3,81V (Signal Reach to Ramps 1.4) I think you may have misunderstood my previous point. Whaby NarimaanV - General
Quoteusen When it's not triggered, it is 0.91V. Is it enough (3,80 volt) when it is triggered? Because, capacitive sensor doesn't work well everytime. I watched this video: and I use 15k and 10k resistors like below: Well that assumes your sensor is putting out 12V when triggered, which it possibly might not considering your "reduced" voltage is as low as 3.8V. Have you measured the voltageby NarimaanV - General
Quoteusen I use Arduino Mega 2560 and Ramps 1.4. I see, that should be fine then as too little voltage can't harm your RAMPS board. Have you checked the Sensor Output voltage when it's not triggered to make sure it doesn't exceed 5V as well?by NarimaanV - General
Quoteusen Hi, I use it in cartesian 3d printer type. I modified g-codes for Z-Probe with NPN Capacitive Proximity Sensor (LJC18A3-B-Z/BX). I measure capacitive sensor data from multimeter: Input: 11.64 Volt Signal: 3.80 Volt Sensor Output: 9.72 Volt Is there any problem? Could you clarify what "Signal" vs "Sensor Output" is? If I'm interpreting that right and Sensor Output is what's going diby NarimaanV - General
QuoteJBFUK I'm not sure and to be honest I just don't want to have another broken component to replace. I already suffered a blown PSU and MOSFET on the bed feed when the heatbed managed to short itself out - the washers above the bed spring slowly wore through the PCB coating and resulted in a short via the frame! Could be a blessing in disguise as I replaced the MOSFET with a much higher rateby NarimaanV - General
QuoteJBFUK I see, the difference is connecting the black line to ground and using the blue line as the endstop input as opposed to the other way around which is what the sensor wiring diagram on the device itself shows. I'll switch to doing that once I've printed out a RAMPS enclosure and tidy up my wiring. I'm still a little confused about that, as others have mentioned doing that as well. Whyby NarimaanV - General
QuoteJBFUK No I simply powered with 12v via the brown and blue wires and then measured the voltage between the black output wire and ground when activated. I take it this is not an accurate interpretation of what RAMPS would see if I connected that black wire directly to it? Wouldn't mind getting rid of the little voltage divider circuit if I could it would tidy things up a bit. So here's howby NarimaanV - General
QuoteJBFUK I wasn't sure as I got 12V on the sensor output when testing. Just to be safe I connected to the voltage divider I'd previously used for my inductive sensor. Works so I'll leave it like that for now. BTW the LJC18A3-H-Z/BX works great with my glass plate. Highly recommended. I just wish it was smaller like the 8mm diameter inductive sensor. Yeah it never hurts to have some isolaby NarimaanV - General
Well I just tested the LJC18A3-H-Z/BX with my Arduino Uno (because if anything breaks, I'd rather it be that than my Mega and RAMPS board). Connected the sensor's power (brown) to 9V, the Ground (blue) to Ground, and the output (black) straight into a digital IO pin on the Uno. Then in a simple script, I enabled the internal pull-up resistor, and told it to light the internal LED of the Uno wheneby NarimaanV - General
Quotemadmike8 Using the NO (Normally Open) NPN sensor I have Wired Normally Brown - 12v Blue - Ground Black - Signal I get 11.5v No LED without metal near sensor. Bright LED and 0v with metal near sensor. Too much V to directly connect to RAMPS. Wiring this way Brown - 12v Black - Ground Blue - Signal I get Dim LED 2.84v without metal near sensor. Bright LED and 0v with metal near sensor. Wby NarimaanV - General
Oh huh, sweet. Thanks for both those clarifications! So then yeah, as long as its an NPN sensor (which says that the output drops to ground), then yeah, don't actually need anything between the sensor and the board.by NarimaanV - General
QuoteJBFUK After using an inductive sensor with an aluminium plate for a bit I really wanted to go back to glass. Accidentally ordered a higher range (but still inductive) sensor. Waiting for LJC18A3-H-Z/BX to be delivered by Amazon today. Do I understand correctly that I can wire this directly in to 12v with no voltage divider on the i/o wire going to the RAMPS board (using a two resistor divby NarimaanV - General
Quotedc42 QuoteNarimaanV EDIT: Sorry, and correct me if this is a mistake, but isn't E3D using a conventional mechanical switch on a servo? Extreme Auto-Levelling with the Bigbox 3DP They were going to include the servo deployed switch as standard and offer my differential IR sensor as part of the sensor upgrade package, but they recently informed me that they will include the IR sensor as standby NarimaanV - General
Quotezerodameaon Ran that M48 as requested. Here are the results at 3pm and it's roughly 80 degrees in the house with the bed at 90*. I will update this as the house cools down. 15:03:36.607 : Mean: -9.245626 15:03:36.607 : Standard Deviation: 0.002183 Not 100% what the Mean means in the context of the test but wow that standard deviation is so small, very impressive! And appreciate taking theby NarimaanV - General
Quotedc42 QuoteNarimaanV ...but because my current setup is PCB heater and glass, my options are limited to either a physical switch attached to a servo or sled (which having the switch move creates room for error) or a capacitive proximity sensor, which is why I'm trying the latter. You have more options than that, including infrared. See . This is the sensor that E3D has chosen for their BigBoby NarimaanV - General
QuoteDavid J Or use an IR sensor, as sold by dc42. I use one on my Prusa to print onto glass - the only extra that's sometimes needed is a sheet of black paper or card under the glass to minimise false reflections. It works well. Yeah I may give that a try if the two capacitive probes I have don't pan out so well in my setup.by NarimaanV - General
Quotemunchit1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA Yeah that's a pretty helpful video. It's essentially the same process except with different sensor types (inductive sensors in the video vs capacitive sensors mentioned here). Even the explanation of making a voltage divider is a pretty nice touch. Won't lie, if I had a metal bed, I would go for an inductive sensor (minimal possible inteby NarimaanV - General
zerodameaon, instead of multiple G29s, it might just be easier to run a M48 which is the repeatability test for the z-probe in Marlin. It does essentially the same thing except all in one command. Thanks so far for the tests, I'm glad to know the proximity sensor you have lives up to its reputation (I have that was well but haven't had time to test it yet). Also curious, what kind of bed are youby NarimaanV - General
I think people use the inductive sensors for the advantages of a metal bed as well as opposed to just inductive vs capacitive. And if you already have a metal bed, I'd imagine inductive is probably better to go for than capacitive (don't know for sure, but I think capacitive is slightly open to interference by other stuff near the sensor where as inductive mainly pics up only metallic surfaces).by NarimaanV - General
Yeah that's what I'm planning on using when mine comes in a month (hopefully).by NarimaanV - General
QuoteAndy1989 Its finaly arrived! Iv wired my LJC18A3-H-Z/BX to 5V and it appears to work okay, and will detect my glass bed from about 2mm with the sensitivity turned right up to maximum. Iv also tried using it with a 9V battery and its a lot more sensitive. Will post again when i get it installed on the printer. That's great to hear! Though that sensor (as well as a lot of similar ones) seby NarimaanV - General
From what I've read, it seems inductive sensors are very repeatable and capacitive work very well with metal as well, so most people go toward getting a metal bed because of the rigidity and because both kinds of sensors would work well with it. I've been doing some reading on PNP vs NPN sensors to figure out the difference, and as you say, it seems with a PNP sensor, you definitely need a voltaby NarimaanV - General
Also an Autodesk Inventor fan, I picked it up super quickly and still use it for all my 3D modeling needs!by NarimaanV - General
So I've been scouring the forums for "reviews" on different capacitive proximity sensors and found a couple mentioned, though nobody's really gone into too much detail about their experience with their sensor. As a result, I wanted to make a thread dedicated to people's experience with them to see which one I should get. If it helps, I'm using a 1/8" (3.175mm) sheet of borosilicate glass on top oby NarimaanV - General
Yeah please, I'd be grateful for the copies, and worst case scenario, I can stop using them once you make the pull request.by NarimaanV - RAMPS Electronics
Hi ElmoC, I'm actually planning on getting this same display to both teach myself how these full graphic LCD's run and if possible (which after finding this, apparently it is) connect it to my RAMPS board. Would you be willing to share the changes you had to make to Marlin and the pin connections from the LCD pins to the RAMPS board pins?by NarimaanV - RAMPS Electronics
Had any time recently to test the new settings?by NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics