Well, I got the gear set installed. Updated the Amax e setting to 2000, and what do you know. It works. I was able to get consistent results calibrating my esteps and a fully successful print! THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!by windcalmer - General
That is the "Amax e" value right? It was at 4000. Changed it to 2000. If I need to go down from there I will.by windcalmer - General
I swapped out the Pololu with an extra that I had laying around. No change. I did not try swapping it to a the E1 location. I am currently installing new gears on the extruder as I found a hairline crack in the smaller gear. I will try swapping the Pololu over to E1 and changing Marlin to match if this does not work. I used the existing heating element, and the existing thermistor as I am lazy aby windcalmer - General
Well after much searching there is nothing I can find. I am getting my friend to print me a new gear set for the extruder. Once I get that on I can see if it fixes itself. LOL The only other issue I have had, which I assume is connected to this issue, is after a few layers the extruder fails to extrude correctly. Then if I just let it continue to print, it will start right back and be fine for tby windcalmer - General
I thought about that last night. The teeth totally clean. They are good shape. I tore the entire extruder down last night to make sure everything was in good condition, and working well. As far as I can tell there is nothing wrong with the extruder (Nema, hobbed bolt, printed parts, hotend, nozzle, fan.) It is just failing to provide reliable extrusion. I would think that if it where a software iby windcalmer - General
Saving to Eprom. Yes if I turn the wades gear by hand it runs smooth as silk. There is no visual sign of slipping or any sound that would indicate missing steps. If the Nema is missing steps, I would assume the would pause momentarily then begin moving again, right?by windcalmer - General
My printer (Prusa I3 Wood Frame) has been up and running for almost two years now. Recently (2 weeks ago) I upgraded my hotend to an E3D "clone". Once I got my cooling fan up and going on the new hotend I started printing a few calibration cubes. It was then that I quickly realized I needed to re-calibrate my E-Steps. This is where it goes sideways. I start by heating the hotend up to temp, Primby windcalmer - General
One thing that really helped me before I got my heated bed was hooked up was using hair spray. Just a few squirting and then rub it in with a paper towel.by windcalmer - Prusa i3 and variants
I know the marks you are talking about. I have a small lighter-fueled torch that I use to get rid of them. Once I have everything filed and smooth, I then use the torch in quick moves over the surface. It remelts the PLA and smooths it back out. ((A regular lighter will work. That said, the higher temp of a torch and the precision of the heat applied, makes the torch the right tool for the job.by windcalmer - General
So switching to a bowden setup would help with the weight issue. I had a feeling it was due to all the weight on the x-carriage. I have a normal Wades Extruder, a 50mm fan for the hotend, and two squirrle cage blowers for the print. I will post the results of that same part with it slowed down. I printed those at 45mm/s I think. I will drop the speed to 30mm/s and see what it does.by windcalmer - Printing
I am getting really good prints. I am not trying to be OCD about quality or anything. That being said I am getting really irritated by these two issues. The part I am talking about is z-anti wobble, the one on the left. ((I bought the printed parts for the printer.)) First issue is the ripples in the outer surface of the print. Its like none of the layers are lining up perfectly. I know they arby windcalmer - Printing
Just snapped this one. I had a ton of this stuff laying around from Nerf projects.by windcalmer - Prusa i3 and variants
DO you want a 3d printed coupler? Or just an idea to make it work? I have aquarium tubing connecting my steppers and threaded rod. It has been working for 3-4 months now. I did put a white line in craft paint on the tubing and rod to be able to see if it had slipped at all.by windcalmer - Prusa i3 and variants
What happens when you home everything then try to move them? Does it home correctly? Sorry, I just re-read your post. Um, I looked at your config file and it looks like you have your endstopos matching what you say they are on the printer. Hopefully someone else will see something that I didn't.by windcalmer - Prusa i3 and variants
I have recently been playing with acceleration settings and trying ot dial in my printer. So I open up Marlin adn change my accel values under #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves So I changed it to 1000. THen I upload and go into the menu of my LCD and it still says 2000 under Control---Motion---Accel What did I not do rigby windcalmer - Prusa i3 and variants
So i releveled the bed with a much thinker piece of glass and got my heated bed hooked up and running. The nozzle drag is still there, and now i am having issues with parts not sticking. Most do, but two out of 13 prints this weekend popped off.by windcalmer - Printing
O.K. Turned the accel down a bit, still the same problem. On a hunch I tried slicing with Sli3r instead of Cura. All fixed. I have the same profile loaded to Cura as I do Sli3r. The very same settings. Is there that much of a difference with the two? PIC: Also, I am getting nozzle drag on my first layer no matter what slicer I use. That is an E-Step problem right?by windcalmer - Printing
Have you looked through your gcode to see if it is in fact solid where it has gaps?by windcalmer - Printing
It is a wade extruder. I am about to print a few tests so I will post the results after I turn down the acceleration. Thanks for the help!by windcalmer - Printing
Have you done a warm pull on your filament? I.E. changed the filament by setting your hotend to 80c and pulling the plug of filament out of the hotend to clear anything that might be causing an issue?by windcalmer - Printing
I forgot to add, I am currently printing at 175c at 40mm/s with a 0.4 nozzle. I thought 175c was pretty much the lower end of what you should print PLA at?.?.?. My retraction is set at 40 speed, and 4.8mm distance.by windcalmer - Printing
I have a Prusa I3 box frame, I do not know the variant. She has been printing really well for a few months now. I have been trying to get it dialed in to perfect though. One of the things that is still driving me crazy is that I get blobbing sometimes at the corners and sometimes just randomly. I am using Cura for my slicing. Please let me know any other info that you would need to help me fix tby windcalmer - Printing
Did you calculate your e steps or just up your multiplier?by windcalmer - Printing
What speed are you printing at? Also have you made sure your extruder is feeding the correct amount of filament? There are tons of videos and writeups on setting your e steps. I would go through setting your e steps again. After you reset your e steps post if that helped. If not I could be a speed issue.by windcalmer - Printing
So I decided to go ahead move the y mounting back about 40mm. It looks as though it worked. The y axis stepper is touching the fram, however that should be a quick fix. I plan on taking a small section out of the frame with a router. Hopefully this works well enough. If not it will be back to the drawing board i guess. Attached pics of the y carriage after moving the bearing mounts back 40mm. Iby windcalmer - General Mendel Topics
After much research I'm wondering if I move the Y carriage 20 millimeters to the front and adjust the bearing mounts 10 millimeters to the rear will that give me enough room to reach the entire print bed. Also will that be stable enough to print on?by windcalmer - General Mendel Topics
Instead of starting a whole new topic I am just going to ask one more question here. Ended up dremeling out a section so the rear bolt would fit and using locktite to secure the nut. I am working on getting the x axis together. I am using a wade's extruder and the hobbed bolt is hitting the x carriage. I am having to mount the x carriage upside down just to get it to fit right, an even then theby windcalmer - General Mendel Topics
I have just started my prusa i3 build. I have my box frame built and the y axis finished. However after placing the y axis on the frame I am worried I might not be able to print on the back 30 mm of the printed. Is there a right or a wrong position for the y axis fore or aft? Or is it a "put it where you can reach everything" kinda thing? Because right now in order to get every last mm of printabby windcalmer - General Mendel Topics
Thank you for the reply. So I guess I need to grab a second set of bearings and go from there.by windcalmer - General
I tried searching to no avail. I even tried going through google with the (site:forums.reprap yadda yadda) command. Anyway...on to the question. I am in the process of building my Prusa I3 Box frame. I have just about everything together to begin the build next weekend. However After trying the fit of the linear bearings (Yeah, I got them on Ebay) on the smooth rods I am very worried they are tby windcalmer - General