Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotethat1guy I've had this happen once or twice, most recently yesterday. For me I retracted too much and the soft plastic got into the direct drive which couldn't grip it. While the extruder is cool and the fan isn't running, take apart the extruder and remove the filament. If there's still some in the nozzle, cut off as much as you can and reassemble the extruder. Thby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteboboche QuoteNewtoprinting Quotejrcaster Make sure you have all of the relevent files in the directory before you compile to arduino. Looks like you are missing the files that it is looking for. Can I try your marlin zip I've been fighting with the Full Graphic Smart controller as well... I have several LCDs and RAMPS shields, I ruled out electronics, wiring etc... the only thing left isby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNewtoprinting Can someone help please. My pla has been getting caught between the heat block and the filament drive. It would print fine for 10 minutes and then building up between heat block and fan/ filament drive. I am having the same problem, I think its the PTFE sleeve inside the threated rod. Because it appears to be melting before it gets to the nozzle. To fix that I ordered anotherby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelouspinuso Quotebengele Quotebengele Hoping that someone who is better at electronics can verify what I am going to do. I am trying to follow Tom's Guide on setting up auto bed leveling 3D printing guides: Setting up auto bed tramming leveling tilt compensation! I am going to just use the open terminals on the power supply to get 12v input and ground. It looks to me like the pin closest tby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNewtoprinting Im stilling getting an error message. Arduino: 1.6.0 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from ultralcd.cpp:39:0: ultralcd.cpp: In function 'void lcd_control_temperature_menu()': dogm_lcd_implementation.h:361:149: error: invalid conversion from 'const char*' to 'char*' [-fpermissive] #define lcd_implementation_drawmenu_settiby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNewtoprinting If you having a working full graphic smart controller can you send me your marlin file I've been getting a long list of errors. Quote #include #ifndef CONFIGURATION_H #define CONFIGURATION_H #include "boards.h" // This configuration file contains the basic settings. // Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h // BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperatuby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNewtoprinting Can someone who got their full graphic lcd smart controller send me their whole marlin file. Ive been trying to get it working for a while now but all I get is an error message when sending it to arduino. I just downloaded the latest version from here. It created a separate folder. I went into the new configuration.h, changed the temp_sensor 0 and bed values to 6 as like myby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteparksie QuoteNlh205 Quoteparksie QuoteNlh205 Quoteparksie QuoteNlh205 I have a full graphic display from folger tech that i can not getting working. I have looked at Tom's video on youtube and have followed the steps and all i get is a blue screen. Do you have 10k Pot for the contrast? Theres a pot on the board, im assuming thats for the contrast but i have adjusted it and still just a blby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBayAreaRepRap Ahhh rock on! Fresh marlin is the key. Thanks! OOOOHH THAT'S A BINGO!!!!!by KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenique911 Try adjusting the contrast (with the adjustment on the front of the board) That's something I should look into. I don't know how to adjust the contrast, as there is no adjustment that I can see. If there is a way, that might actually fix it. I will search, thanks.by KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekonto89 QuoteKeyserSoze3d QuoteBayAreaRepRap Quotekonto89 Watch this video . I have the same display did what the guy said and it worked! did you use the folger tech firmware in the google drive? I can't get it to work with that by doing what he did in the video. I've uncommented reprap_discount and added the U8glib.h to the library folder and Sketch->import library to my current arduby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBayAreaRepRap Quotekonto89 Watch this video . I have the same display did what the guy said and it worked! did you use the folger tech firmware in the google drive? I can't get it to work with that by doing what he did in the video. I've uncommented reprap_discount and added the U8glib.h to the library folder and Sketch->import library to my current arduino sketch, save it and uploadby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemickey OK set the vref and all seems ok but I have a few problems, It seems that my heated bed cant really reach to 110c for ABS printing. I replaced the cable to more thick one(and it helped a bit now I can reach 90c but still take an hour). I check the solder points and they seem fine also I have the folder kit PSU from folger. is there a chance that the bed temp reading are far from the tby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteHairLikeFrodo I've been thinking about buying this kit but was worried about the print quality. Would you guys mind showing off your prints from this machine? I'm curious to see the difference from person to person. I've already looked at all the past photos. Just go for it, man. Print quality is pretty standard for a Prusa i3.I guess that's because the parts are pretty standard. Lots of thby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
I just wanted to give a heads up on this find. An aluminum bed from the land down under. I decided to buy it because it appears it would be both strong and light. Prusa i3 Aluminum Y Carriage I think this one will fit many different hardware combinations, hopefully Folger tech's . I'm going to assume it'll take two weeks to get here. I'll review when I get it.by KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecoldfront Also for the heatbed did you place the GND wire over both - 1,2 pads and + on pad 1? I screwed it up the first time It took forever to get hot. It should be set up like this.by KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecoldfront I have finished drilling the new holes and assembling the new bed onto my prusa i3. A few things I noticed when attaching the bed was the clearance from the screws that are screwed into the beard holders and the frame. I had to cut down the screws for them to pass over the frame. As for drilling the new holes i took the old acrylic bed screwed it down to the aluminium bed and usedby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNargousias Going over Thingiverse and am definately going to print this next. My fingers still hurt from the assembly. Allen Key Handle I learned from my RC helicopter days that those L keys are sent from the devil. I got some of these hardened steel hex keys a ratchet handle and never looked back. Steel Hex Driversby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemikez104 Quotecoldfront I ordered the MK2 Aluminium Bed from Folger this week it should be here tomorrow. I ended up ordering this one even though my wooden bed is working very well now. The one one the folger site did not list the thickness so I was not sure about it. Let us know how that one turns out. Me too. I've got my finger hovering over the trigger. I'm interested to find out howby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecoldfront Hey KeyserSoze3d, Did you design the Spool Holder yourself or grab the stl files from somewhere? If so could you post where you got it? QuoteKeyserSoze3d Quotemikez104 This may be a silly question but can someone tell me where these bearings go? I built a spool holder using those bearings. I got it here. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:59429 In retrospect a non-adjustableby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemikez104 Anyone besides me having issues with the acrylic bed warping? Mine is so badly warped that I can't even level it. That's were 90% of my printing issues have been coming from. I'm going to cut one from some 1/8" birch plywood tomorrow and use the old one as a drill guide. Friggin acrylic is more problems than it's worth. Same here, I can still level mine but one of the corners tby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier The shipping can be delayed 20 days, depending of the stock at Folger's. QuoteKeyserSoze3d What are you guys doing about wires. Mine are horrible. My printer its trapped in a very colorful spider web. I tried to use split loom to cover them and make it look pretty, but the added drag caused me to skip steps and all my parts were slanted along the Y axis. My advice : Expandable Braiby KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
What are you guys doing about wires. Mine are horrible. My printer its trapped in a very colorful spider web. I tried to use split loom to cover them and make it look pretty, but the added drag caused me to skip steps and all my parts were slanted along the Y axis.by KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Locktite was my best friend for this entire build. I had read that tightening any screw had potential to crack the acrylic frames so I snugged everything with some blue locktite. Speaking of Acrylic frames, I think Some aluminum frames may be in my future.by KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemikez104 This may be a silly question but can someone tell me where these bearings go? I built a spool holder using those bearings.by KeyserSoze3d - Prusa i3 and variants
I purchased one of the Folger Tech kits. It is on the way. It took 9 business days for it to ship. There is a thread about this kit, that i have been following. Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebayby KeyserSoze3d - General