Was a bad LCD expansion board. Fixed. Thanks for the assistance Dust.by Gannicus - General
Sorry didn't realize that one didn't have the encoder. LOLby Gannicus - General
Reprap Discount Full Graphic Smart Controllerby Gannicus - General
None of those did ANYTHING.by Gannicus - General
Yeah, doesn't say anything. Terminal window is completely blank.by Gannicus - General
Ok...I've got the program on the arduino. How do I connect the LCD directly to the arduino? Do I continue to use the ramps board? That's how I have it now, and nothing is showing in the monitor at 9600 baud.by Gannicus - General
QuoteDust Its not a potentiometer (variable resistor) Its just 2 switches (well 3 if you including the select button) Known as a Rotary Encoders See for details. So just turn the knob slowly and check the continuity , it should go on off on off..., check both outputs Hey Dust, Thanks for the knowledge pal! I had no idea. Ok...so I did test that, and I got continuity across the board likeby Gannicus - General
Hey guys. Recently had to take my printer apart, and when I put it back together, the LCD works, but the knob doesn't jog. I can click it, and go from the hud to the menu system, but once in there, I can't scroll through the menus. I've tried it with another LCD I had for a CNC project still in the packaging, with new header board and cables, I even went so far as to try it on a BRAND new arduinby Gannicus - General
Quoteggherbaz Did you wired right? If you wired wrong, the sensor might be damaged. Use a 12 volts power supply and the connect a 5 volts regulator to the (black) signal output. Like I said, I had the 4mm version wired in already. All I did was splice the 8mm version on in it's place.by Gannicus - General
QuoteDjDemonD I have pretty much given up trying to understand these sensors. But there are ways to get them working. In the first example you might need to change your firmware settings. Assuming you're using marlin these are: Z_min_endstop logic from true to false (or vice versa) and enable internal pull up resistors for Z_min_endstop. There are obviously 4 combinations of settings, try themby Gannicus - General
Bump hoping anyone can help here.by Gannicus - General
Ordered this one: Tested on my bench PS before installing, and at 5v the trigger light came on. As the other sensor wire was bundled up in wiring, I just spliced the new one on. Light triggers when I get it near my bed. However running an M119 command shows it as still OPEN. Thoughts on how to correct this? It is wired directly onto the Ramps1.4 Z endstop like the LJ12A3 was. Bench PS set to dby Gannicus - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist The math is just Pythagorean theorem and a little trigonometry- nothing beyond high school level. The physical length of the axis is the length of that axis between the points that attach it to the machine's frame. For example, the x axis length of an i3 type design is the distance between the Z screws. In an i3 design it is a little difficult to adjust the x axis, soby Gannicus - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist It looks like your x and y axes are not orthogonal. You will have to move one end of one or the other to correct the problem. I designed a test cube just for this purpose and wrote a spreadsheet that calculates the necessary correction. You can download them here: Essentially, the object is a 100 mm cube. You measure the lengths of the sides and the diagonals andby Gannicus - General
Yeah I'm going to print an adjustable Y axis motor mount and try this again.by Gannicus - General
Quotedc42 What printer, electronics and firmware is this happening on? Folgertech Prusa I3 (plexi original not 2020) Mega2560 + ramps 1.4 shield running Marlin.by Gannicus - General
The belt IS slightly angled.Meaning...from the base of the Y sled, running to the front bearing, it's nearly flat. However at the back portion of the Y axis base, it slopes DOWN to get to the Y motor, loops around the pulley, and is straight to the front.by Gannicus - General
Hopefully this shows what I'm talking about. The side in question was facing the front of the bed, with the other side facing the rear of the bed. Its lean is the same way, so the object appears to be a parallelogram, and not square. This is becoming a major issue. I've previously torn apart the entire printer and squared up everything. The printer is screwed down to a base, with clips holding itby Gannicus - General
Prints more like a slight parallelogram. All other sides of the cube are square. Just the side facing the Y axis idler, and the side facing the Y axis motor.by Gannicus - General
I just said eff it after I posted, and wired it to 5v on the z endstop. Worked perfect. Thanks.by Gannicus - General
Now I'm reading that this is an NPN sensor, and no resistors are required?? In Tom's guide he used this sensor specifically, and used resistors. Here's another odd thing. I removed all the resistors. Wired the wires straight through...Tested the sensor using one of the unused 12v rails on the ramps board where the hotend and heatbed connect. I get 12v coming out the output line, but the sensorby Gannicus - General
Followed Tom's guide on youtube to wire this up, and it's not working. Here's what happens. If I have NO resistors inline, hook it up to a 12v rail on ramps board, the sensor works as it should. Meaning, I can put the sensor tip near metal, and the light triggers. The output line is sending out 12v. Not good. I haven't hooked that up to the ramps board yet. Now, if I wire up the sensor with reby Gannicus - General
I've been in the 3D printing game for a couple years now, and have NEVER run into this. Can anyone explain? This machine just recently had it's linear bearings swapped from the cheap chinese kind to the IGUS delrin bearings, and a E3DV6 installed. I double checked all the frame components were square still using multiple squares. Yet I continue to get, THIS. Can anyone help me correct this?by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks. I ended up going back to the springs, and have nailed my first layer again. Got a bunch of problems left to deal with with this E3DV6...but so far, I'm not convinced it's better in any way to the hot end the Folgertech shipped with. QuoteMindRealm QuoteNow, the corners are lower than the middle of the bed. When I print, the hotend isn't touching the glass plate, so there is no adhesion aby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
- If you're not using a VERY rigid Y-carriage, the glass and carriage will flex together, and will change its topography during heating, and while printing. I'm using a 1/4" aluminum bed - You lose the ability to fine tune the geometry/level-ness of the printing surface. Isn't that the point of having an autobed leveling system?by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm using the 9 point autobed leveling on my folgertech I3, and had it working perfectly prior to upgrading the hotend to a E3DV6 and aluminum spacers instead of the metal springs on the heated bed. Now, the corners are lower than the middle of the bed. When I print, the hotend isn't touching the glass plate, so there is no adhesion and the prints curl up etc. It's awful. Why isn't the autobedby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Had a jam and cleared it, all I did was remove the hot end and heat break to clear them. After reassembly, extrudes perfectly, but when I kick off an actual print that goes through my G28 homing and G29 auto bed leveling scripts, the machine just loses power when the servo extends the arm, and powers back on. Anyone have any idea? I didn't touch any coding or electrical.by Gannicus - General
QuoteZavashier Hobbed Bolt 2pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 50mm - for spring load idler 3pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 30mm - for hotend mount and idler 3pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 12mm - for motor mount 1pc M3 THC (Din 912) 10mm - for hotend fan mount 5pcs M3 nut (Din 934) - for idler, small gear, hotend and hotend fan 2pcs M8 nut (Din 934) - for hobbed bolt 1pcs M3 Hex socket (DIN 913) 6mm - for small gear 1pc M8x20mmby Gannicus - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier It's what I use actualy. Fishbone is pretty if you like it, but won't change your print quality. I dunno if you can install them on Skarab's extruder. Start buy printing the extruder's body, then test your gears. If you have to print new ones it's no big deal. Printing the body and idler as we speak. What did you end up using for the hobbed bolt? Did you make one?by Gannicus - Reprappers