QuoteDust Step 1) is to make sure your bed is defined correctly. See Ie when you home then G1X0Y0 the hotend is over the X0 Y0 position of the bed Safe Z homing moves the PROBE to the center of your headed bed (not the hotend). This requires that probe offsets are set correctly as well as X0 Y0 The procedure at manuelmclure.github, referenced above covers a printer with x-min and y-min enby normw - Firmware - Marlin
Cura print center I just started using Cura with my two printers and found that the bed print center is determined by the bed width and depth settings that you enter in the "Machine settings" box. On both of my printers increasing the width dimension moved the center toward the right. Increasing the depth dimension moved the center toward the back of the bed. I'm using Marlin firmware on bothby normw - Reprappers
Elmer's PVA glue, (Elmer's glue all) - I was trying to print nylon filament on a heated bed covered with kapton tape. This works well with ABS but the nylon is a real problem. The nylon maker recommends PVA glue. Mix it 50% water/glue and paint on a cool bed. The heated bed will dry the glue and it should work on most surfaces, glass, aluminum, or kapton tape. Use a wet cloth to remove old gby normw - Prusa i3 and variants
Took a look at the new Marlin endstop setup and it looks like the Z_MIN_Probe is just an additional Z axis endstop for those who want both a regular endstop and a probe endstop. The pullup would work the same as other endstop pullups. I have the BX probe whicn is NO and it is setup with the endstop pullup disabled and the inverting set to TRUE. With the AX, which is NC the pullup should be disby normw - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm using an older version of Marlin, but here are the endstop setting that work for me: #ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN #endif // The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and groundby normw - Prusa i3 and variants
Jorgeneo, Looks like your H21LOB should work the same as my inductive probe in the Marlin firmware. Here are my end stop settings: #ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN #endif const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true tby normw - General
If there is a sensitivity adjustment, then try setting it to detect the bed at 2mms or so. It sounds like the capacitive sensor is sensing something other than the bed. I have inductive sensors on my printers and the Z offset is less than 1mm. Also the offset should be set with the bed HOT. The X and Y offsets should position the sensor at the center of the bed when you Home the printer - G2by normw - Printing
Looking at the detection range of 1 to 10mm, the question is how consistent is the sensor at the different probe locations? If the probe has a triggered LED indicator, check the height of the probe above the bed when the LED triggers, at the different probe locations. The probe may be triggering at various heights above the deck, which would explain the inconsistent operation.by normw - Printing
With version 1.2.9 it is helpful to go to the platter view and select "Layers". You can use the slider to see the actual support that the different settings generate. Also in the advanced settings you can adjust the "Extrusion width" of the support material. I used an extrusion width that is the same as my nozzle size. Uncheck the "Don't support bridges" box to generate support under all objeby normw - Slic3r
Thanks, I should have played with it a little more. The Flip operation is an interesting feature.by normw - Slic3r
Just downloaded version 1.2.9, and on the first print I needed to rotate the flat top to the bottom to print, using - Flip > z axis. The holes on the sides of the print did not change position. See attached example files.by normw - Slic3r
Had the same problem - see this post: I don't understand why it is necessary to use a negative value for my x zero origin when the actual left bed edge is at the x 40 position, but that is the way it works. You need to experiment with the settings and find what works for you. The old bed center setting was more straight forward.by normw - Slic3r
I fought this battle some time ago. Look at the post below, which explains the problems I had. Now I have 2 printers working well with auto bed leveling, should be called auto z axis calibration.by normw - General
I'm using 6 1/2" kapton tape with no problems. The bed's actual surface must be 95 to 100C and the extruder calibration set correctly. I have auto bed leveling (actually should be called auto extruder calibration). See this video: Read the comment for the slic3r settings. Also, you may have a problem with the filament you are using - try a different brand. I've done a bunch of prints onby normw - General
You need to configure the firmware for your printer. See this post on Marlin setup:by normw - General
I was having trouble getting the print to start in the center of the bed. Here is how to configure the bed center: In the printer settings window > size and coordinates >Bed shape > click set. Size: put in the measured size of the bed. Origin: This is the distance from the extruder X & Y zero coordinates to the left front edge of the print bed. My X zero coordinate is left of thby normw - Slic3r
This post has some links to Marlin setup help:by normw - Prusa i3 and variants
espeicher, The endstop firmware logic is setup to work with mechanical NO (normally open), or NC (normally closed), and electronic switches. A normally open switch does not trigger until it is depressed - then it will put ground on the signal pin. The pullup resistor must be enabled and inverting set to true. A normally closed switch is triggered until depressed - then it will remove groundby normw - Prusa i3 and variants
The new MK3 heated aluminum bed is a good combination of light weight, good heat distribution, and does work with an inductive bed leveling probe. It also has mounting holes for 3 point leveling. I have one on a Pursa I3 and it works well. There is also a larger heated aluminum bed, but it requires 18 volts. Here are some tips for heated bed setup: Get the new MK3 aluminum heated bed. Putby normw - General
Below is a link to my auto leveling video. The firmware is setup to use a 3 point grid, which probes 9 points. The inductive probe sensor is easy to install and works very well. It requires an aluminum print surface. An 1/8" aluminum bed or the MK3 headed aluminum bed both work well, detecting the surface at about 2mm.by normw - Firmware - mainstream and related support
See my post here: The endstop signal input can float and give unpredictable results if the pullup resistor is not enabled. With the pullup enabled there is 5V on the signal input at all times. In the firmware, set the endstop inverting to true, to insure that the unused endstop never triggers.by normw - General
I have two printers that work fine with the inductive probe. The inductive probe requires a aluminum bed to work properly, one printer has a 1/8" aluminum bed and the other has a MK3 aluminum heated bed. They both detect the bed at about 2mm from the surface of the bed. The cost of the probe and resistors necessary for the correct signal voltage was about $5 each. Then all that is needed is aby normw - General
The attached file is a Marlin build for the EZ3D Phoenix. This build should work with Repetier. See: " " for the printer shape setup.by normw - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Two things you can try: Insulate the bottom of the heat pad. Use #12 gauge wire from the power supply to the heat bed terminals of the control board.by normw - Printing
The unused enstops can trigger randomly if they are not properly configured. The unused endstops should always have the pullup resistors enabled and the endstop inverting set to true. This will insure that the unused endstops will always be open. This applies to all control boards that use the Mega2560 chip. Example: My printer uses the XMAX, YMAX, and ZMIN endstops. The unused endstops did notby normw - Firmware - mainstream and related support
If your ZMAX endstop is not used, enable the endstop pullup and set the ZMAX inverting to "true". This configuration insures that the unused endstops will always show open. The way the endstop circuit is designed, if there is no endstop and the pullup resistor is disabled, the "S" signal input to the Mega2560 chip is floating. This can result in random triggering or in your case the endstop trby normw - General
Arduion is the best tool to use for setup since it excludes any software issues. Use the serial monitor and the "M" and "G" codes - . Set the serial monitor to "carriage return" and the baud rate to the baud rate specified in your configuration.h file. (can not be higher than 115200) When the Marlin firmware starts it reports the extruder position as 0, 0, 0 - so you have to home the axis (G28)by normw - Firmware - mainstream and related support
wednesday, Arduion is the best tool to use for setup since it excludes any software issues. Use the serial monitor and the "M" and "G" codes - . Set the serial monitor to "carriage return" and the baud rate to the baud rate specified in your configuration.h file. (can not be higher than 115200) When the Marlin firmware starts it reports the extruder position as 0, 0, 0 - so you have to home theby normw - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks Dust, the duplication does not seem necessary, but as long as the computer is not confused I guess we're OK.by normw - Firmware - mainstream and related support