I'm attempting a project to make a number of food safe parts. While ABS is considered foodsafe (for now...), most castable resins are not (and those that are, only for dry food). Then I had this crazy idea of finding high temperature (over 230 C) silicon, making a mold in that silicon with my ABS parts, and then heating up my waste filament and just pouring that in. This seemed like the best of bby Rett Mikhal - General
Ordinarily I would agree with you, but the youth these days love video games and anime and those two things are infamous for overly large weapons too big to be practical. So that's what he wanted. Reference:by Rett Mikhal - Look what I made!
Nicely edited video. I thought for a second your cat was already bored with it, but then I was proven wrong. 3D printing plus cat videos is a win win for the internet.by Rett Mikhal - Look what I made!
Hello, fellow jabronis. My nephew commissioned me (for no pay) to make him a sword for his Assassin's Creed Arno cosplay for Anime Boston. He secured a very nice outfit from a cosplay website, but had no weapon. So he gave me a picture of a typical cutlass of the era and asked if I could make it. I decided to use this opportunity as my first project to create a full scale prop with my mini Kosselby Rett Mikhal - Look what I made!
I swear by that stuff. It's really easy to work with and gives great finishes. It takes a little practice, though, because you always have to estimate how much liquid will be required to coat your solid and you have to resist the temptation to just slather it on. I used it on a very large print for my nephew and it turned out great. Also I heavily recommend cooking spray and wax paper to work on;by Rett Mikhal - General
It is for a bracelet so it will have to have some strength. However a hard coating will most likely give it more than enough strength than is necessary. I could test it with my simulation tools, if I knew the material properties of extruded ABS under different temperatures. I should put together a test for that for future reference. If this next test at super slow speed and 250 doesn't work mayby Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
I figured it was common, but I also hypothesized that Cartesian and Delta solutions would differ based on their different modes of transportation. My retraction is set to the Cura default; 4.5mm at 40.0 mm/s. I found a good blog on ABS printing that agreed with your assessment that fans on ABS is a bad idea. They recommend going up or down in 5 degree increments depending on if you have mush (gby Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
Good point, I forgot to mention it is ABS. So a print cooling fan will, I assume, solidify the part faster and thus keep it more rigid. I have a fan on my print head, but I have seen modifications on the Kossel with multiple 45 degree angle fans blowing on the part.by Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
So after several successful prints over the last few months, I decided to try my hand at a thin membered part to test my device. Namely this number, right here: The problem seems to be that my mini Kossel really doesn't like thin vertical members. Thin, horizontal members with support is just fine. I first found this out with my X-wing print, which had thin vertical lasers that looked awful, buby Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
Doing a complete reboot fixed it, including the original wire that I thought was burnt out. I had not considered the machine's lack of EMI shielding. I will have to rectify that in the future. Thanks, gentlemen.by Rett Mikhal - Reprappers
So after printing successfully for about a month with my first RepRap Kossel, I found one day I could not get it to connect. My first troubleshooting instinct was to do the simple first; and that was the USB cable. Swapping out the cable that came with the kit fixed the problem and I was successfully printing again. I thought it odd that the cable burned out; it's the first time I've ever seen aby Rett Mikhal - Reprappers
My machine settings seem correct for my mini Kossel. As I said, this error also appears in Slic3r, which was used to calibrate the machine. After exhausting all other options, I installed Cura on my tower (which lacks any kind of RepRap software OR 3D cad editing software) and created the G code using the same settings. The mysterious one line of incorrect code disappeared. It must be a registrby Rett Mikhal - General
I found one of the strange codes. This one doesn't look like it goes off the table, but it's clearly incorrect. I have no idea how it's creating it. Slic3r also creates it....by Rett Mikhal - General
So I've been experimenting with different slicers, and I like the interface of Cura because it is very similar to something like CAMWorks which I was trained on. I like the virtual interface and ease of movement, and especially the virtual toolpath visualization. However, I have been having an issue with a print. I'm trying to print a new reel holder for my Kossel, and it seems to print totally bby Rett Mikhal - General
I found the problem. I had incorrectly set the Z_min to a height other than 0 (+28mm) to avoid crashing the head during testing, but neglected to put it back. Once I did that (AND ALSO reset the Z_home with the adjusted value), it prints fine. The problem was that the +28 was making it so it could not do Z0, or Z anything below 28, and thus it was only raising the Z level because it was rubbing aby Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
I'm running out of things to check. I tried a different slicer and had the same result. I made my own calibration cube file with the same result. I checked the steps/mm settings several times and everything is fine. I checked the firmware measurements and did a bed level check, the head doesn't lose a single fraction of a mm from dead center to all points along the bed. The first level is also aby Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
Hmm... I checked the calibration and they all seem fine. Everything is set to 80 steps/mm.by Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
They are GT2-20T timing pulleys. I'll check the guide on calibrating them.by Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
Fixed the belt, but still having Z level problems. I think I have a clue. When moving, the machine is whisper quiet, but it shudders a lot when printing. I think it may be laying down too much material and the head is rubbing against it, putting it out of square. Perhaps it's calibration for the extruder? Also it's still not getting even close to 30mm high, which leads me to believe the Z step isby Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
Exactly right, my friend. I noticed on a second printing that one belt was gaining slack in the negative direction. I must have slipped during one of print failures.by Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
So I finished my first RepRap, a mini-Kossel design built from a kit. After much calibration (and giving up on the auto-probe as it seems to crash into the bed when retracting), I did the test print for the 30mm cube. It seemed to start off well, but after ten minutes, it said the build was complete (it originally predicted 20) and I noticed my layers were not on top of one another. Instead, my cby Rett Mikhal - Delta Machines
It is from a kit. I haven't heard other uses complain about this problem, so it's possible it's the hardware (maybe also in combination with tolerance and shrinkage). I have the 3D files and I am going to modify them as I build for a second, easier build. I use SolidWorks. I will try the heating element idea.by Rett Mikhal - General
I'm not sure that's an option for me, however, as this design requires nylock nuts to be inserted into the traps. Heating up the nylock would most likely damage it. I may just throw some delicious locktite in there.by Rett Mikhal - General
I see so you suggest heating the metal so it melts the ABS on contact. Interesting, none of the guides said such an operation was necessary, which led me to believe the nut trap would have a press fit clearance that could be easily installed.by Rett Mikhal - General
First time poster so excuse me if this has been asked before; I used the search but it yielded many hundreds of posts for "nut trap." Anyway I'm building my first mini-Kossel and I'm having a difficult time getting those nylock nuts to stay firmly inside the nut traps. The build guides say just thread a screw in and pull, which sounds easy, but maybe my prints have bad tolerance because even whenby Rett Mikhal - General